Question about Maytag Bravos MTW6600T Top Load Washer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: F51 & SD Codes --
I have a question for tech17....
the part #W10130544 is around $199.00. Am I correct? Is this the entire control board or a new RPS Sensor? I checked prices on just the sensor at around $34.00. I also got a quote from a local Appliance Parts shop for what i thought was the same part, a Whirlpool part for around $78 bucks. What is the correct repair? I have attempted the reseat and clean atleast 3 times and still cannot get this code to clear!?!?! Also, how can I get into diag mode on this console? I am assuming the power needs to be on!?!? How can I clear the stored fault codes? Any help would be greatly appreciated! I love this machine but for a few dollars more I can go back to the old style controlled machine and be done with this electronic BS! Like I said any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks for the previous posts!
Posted on Mar 30, 2008
If the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly and the outer shell with the tub bearing.
Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.
Pictures of this job...
A sure indication was the brown junk/gookus leaking out if the rear bearing area and the belt has spewed it around in the drum that the rear bearing and seal was bad...
Picture1 - Picture2
The whole outer shell and basket come out to do this repair....what bad bearing and rusted shaft looked like...
Picture1 - Picture2 - Picture3
I had to remove the back panel. Undo the pump hose & water level hose, remove the 2 shocks, remove the motor, undo the front boot from the outer panel and remove the 2 springs to lift the whole assembly out from the back to work on it.
Picture1 ( boot pushed inside ) Help page1 - Help page2
Posted on May 07, 2009
SOURCE: Maytag Washer lid switch
Ohm out the blue/ blk terminals on the sw (remove wire harnes first and notate wire color connection) with an ohmmeter-- Reading should be zero (closed lid position)
Then ohm the ylw and white sw terminals-- reading should be 0 as well.
If I am not mistaken this sw has a plunger that sticks out, if hte unit goes off balance this could push the plunger in. to reset- pull the plunger out
AFFORDABLE APPLIANCE REPAIR
Posted on Jun 20, 2009
Have same problem. Service tech said LF code is caused by low water pressure coming into machine. Tech verified water flow looked fine, getting new controller installed tomorrow.
Posted on Sep 23, 2009
Well, you're not gonna like this, but here's the deal.
Remove the three screws on the rear of the control panel and lift it up. Disconnect the rubber hose on the right side of the gray control module and blow through it to make sure it is clear and not kinked. If this check is fine then your control module needs replaced.
Note that Maytag knows this is a fairly common problem. My washer failed 9 months out of warranty with this problem.
The only good news is that it is an easy, though expensive, replacement.
Posted on Sep 25, 2009
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When the washer fills but does not agitate or spin then you can check if the lid switch is fine. You can jump start the lid switch by connecting both the wires with each other or use the third wire to act as jumper between the two. After this if the problem is solved then replacing lid switch is recommended repair. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.
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