Question about Kenmore 95172 / 95174 / 95179 Electric Kitchen Range

7 Answers

Warming drawer Have triple action kenmore (whirpool) 95174 warming/oven drawer, Indicator light goes on, but drawer does not warm or go on.

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  • jsantilli Jul 08, 2008

    how do you replace a bake ignitor on the lower oven/warming drawer kenmore 95714. where is it

  • jsantilli Jul 08, 2008

    how do you replace a bake ignitor on the lower oven/warming drawer kenmore 95174. where is it

  • jsantilli Jul 08, 2008

    95174 warming/oven drawer not working. How do you replace heater coil?

  • jsantilli Jul 10, 2008

    where can you get a service manual for a kenmore 95174.

  • jsantilli Jul 10, 2008

    where can you get a service manual for a kenmore 95174.

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7 Answers

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Hi firiend

go whith a good technision he will help u batter if u do at your home u do damge your product so it batter way to go with good technision

Posted on Jul 10, 2008

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Oven/Range Troubleshooting and Repair Manual
Oven/Range troubleshooting and repair manual
Problem :[Electric Only]
Oven temp is as erratic as a bat outta…well, you know.

Posible solution

  • Check that oven sensor, Hoss.
  • Check the thermostat, too.
Read this page for more about how to measure oven temperature.
Problem: [Gas or Electric]
"My oven door is stuck closed. I’m gonna die! HELP!"

Possible solution:
  • You might have a fried ERC. This would mainly affect ovens that have automatic door latching in self clean (no lever), such as Jenn Air’s and some other Maytag brands. Check for error code in display. If an error code is given, check against manufacturer’s code explanations in owner’s manual or tech data sheet inside oven control panel.
The self clean latch is bent or someone tried to do the gorilla routine on it. You’ll need to disassemble the oven to get at it. Have fun, Homer– glad I ain’t doing it!
Problem: [Gas Only]
The bake and/or broil burner do not fire up.

Possible solution:
  • The bake ignitor is shot. Listen, Bubba, you can’t tell it’s bad by just looking at it–you gotsta measure the amperage. Just because it glows orange, doesn’t mean it’s good. On round ignitors, look for a current draw of 2.6 to 2.8 amps. On flat ignitors, look for 3.2 to 3.6 amps. Low current draw will not allow the gas valve to open.
  • The valve is fried. If ignitor checks out OK, remove power from oven, pull the two wires off the valve and ohm test. Should read two to five ohms. If open, replace valve.
  • The pilot is out…DUH! Try reigniting the pilot. If it goes out again, check 1) gas supply (out of gas, crimped line, etc.), 2) pilot orifice clogged or dirty.
  • Pilot flame not wrapping around thermocouple. Reposition the thermocouple bulb so the upper third of the pilot flame wraps around the thermocouple bulb. Did I lose y’on that one, Bubba? If so, you better take it to the repair forum ’cause you ain’t gettin’ any smarter staring at the screen.
If pilot is spark ignited and you’re not getting spark to the pilot, replace the spark electrode, spark module, and the ignition wire. These parts are inexpensive enough that it’s not worth the trouble to just replace one, replace the entire ignition system as long as you’re in there.

Problem: [Gas Only]
"The oven just doesn’t get hot enough and it ruined my angel food cake. I’m just gonna die!"

Possible solution:
Check the door gasket, Homer.






Posted on Jul 08, 2008

  • LORETO LACARON
    LORETO LACARON Jul 09, 2008

    Oven & Range Appliances
    Note: Before working on an electric-range problem, unplug electric range and/or disconnect
    fuse or trip circuit breaker.







    Problem/Symptom

    Possible Cause

    Solution







    Surface heating element is not operating.

    Burned-out heating element.

    • Purchase new, matching heating element for your make and model (plug-in type).
    Remove by pulling out terminals from mounting plug. Insert new element into plug slots.
    • If unit has a two-wire, three-wire, or four-wire type heating element, it can be
    easily replaced with a screwdriver or adjustable wrench.




    Oven and surface units don't bum evenly.

    Clogged burner openings.

    • Clean openings with pipe cleaners, or remove burners and soak in a strong detergent solution.




    Heat escaping around oven door.

    Oven door not properly aligned.

    • Adjust and/or tighten loose screws.




    Oven baking temperature is incorrect.

    Oven vent is blocked.

    • Remove any blockages. Adjust vent, if necessary.




    Oven door not adjusted.

    • Adjust and/or tighten loose screws.




    Receptacles and clock-timer don't work.

    Blown range fuse (on some models).

    • Check and/or replace range fuse. See “Use & Care” manual for instructions.




    Self-cleaning cycle doesn't work.

    Blown range fuse.

    • Check and/or replace range fuse.




    Door-latching mechanism doesn't close properly.

    • Open and reclose door-latch mechanism.




    Oven lamp doesn't work.

    Burned-out bulb.

    • Replace bulb with special oven-type bulb.




    Bulb connection loose.

    • Remove and re-insert bulb.




    Switch button stuck.

    • Tap and release door switch, then clean.





  • LORETO LACARON
    LORETO LACARON Jul 09, 2008

    TOP BURNER ELECTRIC SPARK IGNITER'S:

    Failures of electric spark ignitions to function at all and or operate
    in any sporadic or erratic manner can be caused by several
    possibilities. Below is the most common of possible problem
    possibilities.



    When one or more sparker's sparks continuously, it's possible one of
    the switches on the top burner valves is stuck in the closed position
    completing the circuit.



    Determining which one requires the removal of the wires attached to the
    switch's, each one done separately and individually, one at a time. A
    continuity test can also determine which sparker switch is defective.
    The electrical power must be turned off prior to testing.



    Any one of the individual sparker's could be a defective part. Each
    sparker has a wire that pulls off the sparker's element body. The one
    that stops the sparking is most likely the culprit.



    If all the sparker's are sparking when the stove isn't in operation,
    the most likely cause is a defective capacitor in the spark module. The
    entire spark module must be replaced.



    Spark modules are non serviceable and non repairable. Replacements are
    available at any local appliance retail parts store listed in the phone
    book.



    Another possibility causing sparker's to spark continuously, is
    moisture during a recent cleaning process found it's way onto one or
    more of the switches. Excessively wet sponges or cleaning cloths allow
    water and or excessive moisture to get onto the switches.



    If this happens to be the case, drying out the moisture often corrects
    this condition. Remove the knobs and lift the lid, if applicable. Not
    all stoves have lift able top lids.



    Remove any clear plastic covers on the valve stems, if applicable and
    pass warm air over the switches using a hair blow dryer. The idea here
    is to dry out the moisture, if there is any.



    Another cause could be reversed electrical polarity. The plug end will
    have 3 prongs. It must be directly connected into a properly wired and
    grounded wall receptacle. Not all wall outlet receptacles are properly
    grounded.



    Reversed electrical polarity will damage the spark module. Which can
    cause the sparker's to spark continuously when the appliance is not in
    use or not spark at all. A new module replacement must be installed.
    The electrical problem at the wall receptacle corrected.



    Do not use 2 prong extension cords to lengthen the existing appliances
    3 prong electrical cord. Do not bypass the grounding pin on the end of
    the appliances electrical cord. Damage to the spark module will result.



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  • Kenmore Master
  • 19,396 Answers

It is easier is to replace the entire burner which comes with theignitor. Check if the wires have not come loose from the igniterat the bottom of the burner, twist the burner about a 1/4 to 1/2inch counter clockwise to remove it. Look for cracked ceramic insulatorat the electrode.
Here you can find th oven ignitor, Repairclinic part# 3377, and the sealed burner, Repairclinic #405328

Posted on Jul 08, 2008

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  • Master
  • 1,894 Answers

To find the location of the part in your unit exactly you will need a assistance of a service manual sir

Posted on Jul 08, 2008

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  • Master
  • 983 Answers

I think the heater coil might have gone ...
so not getting warm ...
have check with the heater coil inside ........

Posted on Jul 08, 2008

  • 8 more comments 
  • Dileep Keshavanarayana
    Dileep Keshavanarayana Jul 08, 2008

    if the coil has got burned you take a new one & replace it ...

    if the power contact is not there with the coil means also you will face this kind of problem ....
    first you must identify that .....


  • Dileep Keshavanarayana
    Dileep Keshavanarayana Jul 08, 2008

    First, the coil is connected to the backside of the inside of the oven.
    The two ends of the coil are each supported by a bracket where the ends
    go through a hole in the oven wall. The brackets will have hex screws to hold
    them in place in oven. (actually this is in general to get you some idea it differs from the model to model )...
    you must go through that exactly ....

  • Dileep Keshavanarayana
    Dileep Keshavanarayana Jul 08, 2008

    After unscrewing the hex nuts pull the coil out. The ends of the
    coil were connected to the ends of wires that were clamped together.
    disconnect each of the coil ends (just pulled them apart). it is a pretty difficult task. purchase a new coil & replace with that .....

  • Dileep Keshavanarayana
    Dileep Keshavanarayana Jul 08, 2008

    this is general things what i have told in kenmore .....
    you must go through very carefully.....


  • Dileep Keshavanarayana
    Dileep Keshavanarayana Jul 08, 2008

    pick up one end of the wire and push the end of the coil into the slot of the clamp on the end of the wire

  • Dileep Keshavanarayana
    Dileep Keshavanarayana Jul 08, 2008





    The Oven Coil may look like this ....


  • Dileep Keshavanarayana
    Dileep Keshavanarayana Jul 08, 2008



    the oven coil may look like this .....


  • Dileep Keshavanarayana
    Dileep Keshavanarayana Jul 08, 2008

    here are the tips to replace the heating element ....

    Unplug the range.


    Remove the two screws holding the element in the oven.


    Pull out until you see the wires on the end of the element.


    Unscrew the wires and pull them through so they do not go back inside.


    Install new element in the reverse order.


  • Dileep Keshavanarayana
    Dileep Keshavanarayana Jul 08, 2008

    This solves your problem .....
    but if you are afraid of taking that off then you better contact the repair center ....

    any doubts you can reply me
    i am always here to assist you
    thank you
    bye
    rate my solution ....


  • Dileep Keshavanarayana
    Dileep Keshavanarayana Jul 08, 2008

    hey rate my solution .................

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  • Master
  • 796 Answers

Its either a bad electronic control board (http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=1265&N=244804),
or a bad bake igniter (http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=1265&N=1990).

Posted on Jul 08, 2008

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