Question about Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: refrigerator and freezer
Does the compressor click on and off every minute or so and is hot? That would likely be tripping on a thermal overload due to not being able to start (bad motor starter on the compressor). If the compressor is running normally and warm then you may have a froze up coil. Take the lower rear back sheetmetal cover off the inside freezer section and look at the coil. If it's frozen block of ice basically the defrost cycle is not working and the ice has blocked the air flow through the unit. (could be bad defrost heater, defrost timer or defrost t-stat). If the compressor is running normally and warm and you see no ice or even frost on the coils then you have a sealed system problem that usually means most if not all of the refrigerant has leaked out of the system (or a blockage/restriction in the system). This would be the worst case since it means a whole bunch of money to repair. Let us know what you find out and we can have a better idea on what to recommend.
Posted on Nov 24, 2006
I did samsung warranty for awhile and these fridges have a faulty defrost termination clixon. What happens is when you turn off the fridge it turns it off defrost. If you do get a tech out there are two parts you need to fix it. One is a yellow sensor cable and the other is a defrost termination wire that is black and red. These two parts i use to sell for $70aus when the fridges where out of warrenty.
I actually have one of these fridges now and work so if you have any other problems please let me know
Posted on Jan 08, 2009
SOURCE: hoypoint ffa9op.defrosted
Has the problem been slowly developing? Is fan inside freezer compartment running? Can you hear fan and compressor running below or behind refrigerator? Is there a collection of dust under and below refrigerator?
Below is a link with more Q&A Click on link and if you need me to assist you are welcome to let me know, Thanks, Sea Breeze
Posted on Feb 01, 2009
Probably not. Newer (and I mean under 15 years old or so) refrigerators may run more % of the time than older units, but are using far less energy while running, so total energy consumption is actually less. The newest energy star models often use less electricity than a single incandescent light bulb uses if left on 24/7. If your run times are noticeably longer just recently, and there have been no other significant changes to account for it (like more and / or longer door openings or a warmer ambient temp., etc.) then you may have caught a defrost problem or bad door gasket problem early. The warm temp on the outer case near the freezer is to prevent condensation from forming in those areas, and is normal. (as a matter of fact, older refrigs often used low wattage electric heaters for that task, almost all newer units use waste heat from the cooling system to accomplish that task) Please don't bother rating this solution, as anything but a Fix-Ya lowers my overall score. Thanks.
Posted on Feb 16, 2009
There are 2 things that cause these to not defrost. Kinda like the "Achilles heel" of GE fridges. The first one is the Defrost heater itself. And the second is the evaporator thermister (GE calls it a "sensor"). They are both very easy to replace. The part numbers are; WR51X10101 (heater) and WR55X10025 (sensor). If you don't have a local appliance parts retailer, just plug those numbers into a search engine. I highly recommend getting both parts because if the sensor hasn't failed yet, it will. The same goes for the heater...
Now for the fun stuff... Turn the temp knobs all the way counter clockwise to kill power to the fridge. Unload all the food from the freezer and remove all the shelves and the basket. Remove the screws that are holding the evap panel (the flat panel on the back wall, it's about 2 1/2 ft tall). Remove the panel to expose the evaporator. You'll see the heater at the very bottom of the evap connected by 2 screws, remove these and pull the heater out. Your new heater comes with instructions on how to install it.
After you have done that, look at the top of the evap. On the left, you'll see a little white sensor clipped to one of the evap tubes (shiny little clip), that has 2 wires feeding it. Remember which tube it's clipped to then unclip the sensor and pull it toward you. Snip the wires right at the base of the old sensor and completely remove it (leave the wires in there). Now separate those 2 wires and strip about 3/8" of insulation off. At this point, you are ready to follow the instructions that came with your new "sensor". Oh! and if it's all frosted up on the evap? Take this time (before you re-install the panel) to use a blow dryer and melt it away. All that'll be left to do is rebuild it.
There ya go! Job completion time= ~45 minutes. Easy breezy, right?
If this has been helpful, please don't forget to rate my solution. Thanks!
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
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