Question about Bosch 24 in. SGS45E02 / SGS45E08 Exxcel Free-standing Dishwasher
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: I have a fully integrated
with my experience with d/w i found that if you pull apart the inside were the blades are there are round plates that require cleaning and there might be something under the plates.goodluck
Posted on Jun 26, 2008
This is such an easy repair, you'll be shocked and surprised! The reason this is happening is that the computer or timer has detected a "flood" condition and has permanently energized the drain pump to clear the "flood".
What you'll need to fix it...
1.) Shop-Vac (for vacuuming water) with a crevice tool (like one of these)
2.) T20 Torx bit with a driver. Torx sizing here. (You can get a set at Home Depot or Lowes)
All you gotta do now is get down on the floor and remove the kick panel. Then remove the screws holding the water valve and lift it up out of its' plastic holding. Now your shop-vac w/ crevice tool can be used. Stick the crevice tool in there (about 10") and vacuum up all the water that's been trapped in the basin. (you may need a flashlight to see what's going on back in there...) After the water is gone, your DW will work fine.
Here's how it works... About 10" behind the inlet valve is a "float" made of styrofoam. When water gets into the basin, the float rises and eventually trips a "flood condition" switch. This switch shuts the unit down and will only allow the drain pump to operate. So what you want to do is get the water out of the basin.
There may be a reason for the basin flooding, though. Suds (caused by too much (or the wrong) detergent), an actual water leak from the valve, etc... So after you get the water out of there and the unit is working again, you may want to monitor it (like, only run it when someone is home) for a while just to make sure that a real flood does not occur.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Mar 23, 2009
Hello, welcome to Fixya. What you're describing sounds like a bad control. I would still start by checking your water inlet temperature, the unit must be connected to a "hot" water supply line. If the water at your water supply is indeed hot it shouldn't be an issue, however you can try running the hot water at your sink tap to insure the cold water is out of the lines just before you turn on the dishwasher. If it is what I suspect, the control, this won't make any difference but it's worth a try. If on the other hand the water is good and hot entering the machine, you likely have an issue with the control as I alluded to. repairclinic.com carries them as part # 1102296 at a retail price of $185.65US however, I have a suggestion as to identifying the culprit if you're open to it thus confirming or dismissing the cause...but you may want to call in a pro. Since the issue with your Bosch dishwasher potentially lye`s within`the electronic timer/control, specifically the heater relay solder joint. You'll need to access the control for a visual inspection ( a faulty flow switch, ntc or heater can also cause this, but not very probable ). This is possibly one of the reasons why it runs seemingly forever (unless pressing the two buttons for "cancel"). To inspect and possibly repair your unit It will require you to remove the control from the unit and then remove the control from it`s plastic housing and look for a burnt solder contact on the printed circuit board. This will be one of the pins from the heater relay, hence the unit runs & runs ( because it can`t heat to advance or until canceled ) trying to heat the water. **Further to this, if you or someone you know is proficient at soldering, a lot of times it can be remedied by simply repairing the solder...although Bosch recommend`s replacing the control and I don`t pretend to speak on there behalf nor do I profess to know better. Replacing the control will certainly remedy the problem. This is just my experience (it work`s) and my opinion (why buy new if one can repair ?)** **Please disconnect the power before attempting any service to the dishwasher. If you do not feel comfortable attempting this service, call a local pro as I alluded to earlier but with a word of caution, Insure it is one familiar with Bosch/Thermador/Gaggenau to service your machine.** Hope this answer`s your question's, let me know if I can assist you further. I will look for your reply. Please do reply either way, I've found after answering many of these questions I'm left wondering if the info was of any use to those asking. I don't know if perhaps a pro does get called in those cases and the "fixya" thread gets abandoned but I hope not. Thank`s for visiting "fixya" for your repair inquiries. Please take a moment and rate this solution to it's helpfulness to you and leave a testimony if you're satisfied. Good luck. macmarkus :)
Posted on Jun 10, 2010
The most likely causes are a failed drain pump motor (or capacitor) or a jammed/broken pump impeller. There is a very simply simple test on classixx models which which help you to determine the cause, or where to look next.
1. Turn the wash cycle selector to any wash cycle so the "ON" light is illuminated, but do not press the START/STOP button.
2. Open the door and pull the lower basket out.
3. Locate the 'float', lift it up fully and keep it held up.
(The float is a dome/mushroom shaped protrusion in the base of the washer just to the left of the drain and partially hidden by the spray arm)
When you lift the float, the drain pump should run instantly and the water should drain from the washer. If you can hear a low hum from the pump motor in the base of the washer, but the water doesn't drain, then it's likely that the pump impeller is jammed or it may have broken away from the spindle. If this is the case, try repeatedly lifting and dropping the float fairly rapidly. Repeated stop/start signals to the pump motor can sometimes free a stuck impeller.
If you cannot hear any noise from the base of the washer when you lift the float, then the drain pump motor or the motor capacitor may have failed. A failed capacitor is often accompanied by a buzzing noise. Further testing will be required to determine the exact cause of the fault.
Please try the simple test above and then post back with the results for further assistance.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Mar 05, 2011
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