After my heater got flooded from heavy rain my pilot light went out. I am able to relight the pilot light and the heater operates fine but after a while the pilot light goes out. I have to relight my heater every morning and evening as the pilot light has gone out.
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Many heaters have pilot flames can be relighted with a match or push button operation. Many employ safeguards to prevent unburnt fuel from accumulating in the space or allowing an unstable pilot flame from "proving".
Most appliances have instructions printed or embossed on or near the pilot, gas valve or protective cover. It is very important to closely follow these instructions for your safety and that of others in the area. If you are unable to locate the instructions or follow them and relight the pilot, you should contact the gas company for assistance. This can be in indication of an issue with fuel, thermocouple, gas valve, etc., and would require a service person to correct.
I have included a link to a video to light a gas heater - yours may be the same or similar:
please see the next step: he pilot light may be out or may not stay lit. There may not be enough
hot water, or the water may be too hot. The water heater may leak or be
noisy, or the hot water may be dirty. A problem with your water heater may be due to overwork, not mechanics.
If your water heater holds less than 15 gallons per family member (tank
volume is stamped on a metal plate affixed to most water heaters),
consider a larger unit or staggering your use of hot water. Drain a hot water tank:
Turn the gas-control knob to
off and close the gas-shutoff valve.
Close the cold-water supply valve and open a hot-water faucet in the house to speed draining.
Attach a garden hose to the drain valve and run it outside to a
drain. If the heater is in the basement you may need to run the hose to
or through a sump pump.
Open the drain valve and allow the tank to drain.
Once done, close the drain valve, open the cold-water supply valve,
and open any nearby hot-water faucet. When a steady stream of water
flows from that faucet, the tank is full; close the hot-water faucet.
Once the tank is full, turn on the gas and relight the pilot.
The pilot assembly is stopped up. It will need to be taken apart, blown out or cleaned and re-intalled. The yellow, lazy flame is preventing the thermocouple from getting warm enough to allow the main burner to ignite. Hope this helps.
you relight it ,,but it is better you are lyning down to see where to light it,,,but some have a red botton that you push to relight it ,,,like a bbq grill it makes a spark and when you turn the control knob on pilot to light it
Your final question is an excellent one! YES!-- they SHOULD BE!-- Are they truly, tho?- I doubt it! and unless the power feed, and the thermostat connections come in from above the floor line, there invariably will be ways for water to get into this box! So-- Can you shine a light down thru the floor grating, and can you see signs of water having gotten into the equipment?-- Can you remove the grate, and check it out closely? Let us now what you find- MackB
The old freeloader is feed by cold at the bottom and the hot feed comes out the top. Basically if you are getting hot water out the hot tap (or any water out the hot tap) it has water in it. If you have any concerns post a new fault, I will keep a look out for it. These are great heaters, well worth looking after.
Look for dust and lint. Look for them in places where gas should be freely flowing. I had a similar problem with an Empire Corcho wall-mounted propane ceramic catalyst heater. First it was the pilot light, then the #2 ceramic mantle. After horsing around with the gas lines and pressure regulators and trying to re-aim the pilot, it all turned out to be dust and lint in the gas passages. A little dust bunny in the brass pilot tube gave me a pilot light the shape and color of a banana. One puff of compressed air, and I got back my razor-sharp pilot. And some dust in the chimney of the #2 burner kept it burning blue/yellow and blistering paint off the upper surfaces of the heater. A bit of cleaning with a shop-vac put that right. "Passive" heaters are very much prone to this sort of problem because they rely on convection currents (i.e. LOW velocity) to get the job done. Convection currents are notorious dust collectors, as in COBWEB CITY.