Question about Kenmore 600 6965 Electric Dryer
The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this
condition by bypassing the said components.
Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.
Dryers with lint filter on the front.
Dryers with lint filter on the top.
Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.
The problem is likely in the motor centrifugal switch if the dryer still doesn't heat with good heating element and the three components above bypassed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.
Posted on Dec 31, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Dryer tumbling but no heat....
Check the following to address this issue.
1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.
2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.
3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.
Posted on Jul 08, 2009
You need an ohm meter to do needed checks. Unplug dryer from power,,, then look for sensors and locate the heat coils. Using the ohm meter, check each device by connecting meter to the posts ( your looking for an open curcuit) Note that when you touch the leads of the ohm meter together, the gage will move? This is closed condition, and if the needle did not move, this is called "open". When you find a sensor or heat coil that reads open, that part is bad.
Now make sure there is not a tripped breaker in the fuse panel of the house,,, because even though the dryer is 220 volt,,, 110 volt runs the tumble motor while the other 110 volt curcuit runs the heat side ( so one will work without the other)
Posted on Oct 10, 2009
SOURCE: Dryer not tumbling
A broken belt is very common. If you hear the motor running, that's probably it. The dryer must be taken all apart to replace the belt. Hopefully instructions will come with the new belt. Routing the belt over the motor shaft and around the tensioner is always a challenge.
Posted on Apr 22, 2009
SOURCE: dryer heats but won't tumble
Assuming, the timer is ok and that you can hear the the dryer motor running, it sounds like a broken belt. These kind of failures generally occur suddenly - one day it works, the next day it doesn't.
Posted on May 03, 2009
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