Question about Kenmore Dryers
When most Kenmore dryers do not turn on at all. The most common cause of failure is the door switch and the door switch actuator.
Here is how you can test this.
1 Empty the dryer of clothes
2 Locate the door switch actuator. it will be over along the top edge of where the door closes, just inside the lip. There will be a little (3/8th inch wide) metal tab covered in plastic. The is the actuator the is mounted to the electrical door switch. The door switch is a valuable safety device that prevents children, pets and adults from loosing limbs and other things in a spinning dryer. DON'T BYPASS IT.
3 The tab may simply be broken off. If you can push the piece and hear a clicking sound, it means the switch is probably good but the tab is not.
4 To test this push the tab in or jam a ball point pen in there until it clicks, turn the dryer timer on and push the start button. It it comes on, that was the issue.
WARNING: NEVER, NEVER, NEVER PUT YOU ARM INTO A SPINNING OPEN DRYER DOOR.
JUST DON'T DO IT. IT CAN RUIN YOUR DAY.
5 If you push the tab and get no click but a sort of springy action. The switch is broken.
Usually the switch replacement kit has both the metal tab and the switch.
That is usually it.
If you can supply me with the model number of the dryer, I can help you locate the right part and give some instruction on how to do it.
Hope this helps,
Posted on Dec 31, 2010
There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...
The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor going bad...
Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why your dryer will not run...
Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning
Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start
Posted on Dec 31, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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The Turn Signal Indicator
The Sidemarker Lamp
The Sideview Mirror (Pontiac Thunder only)
The turn signal switch also sends a separate on-off signal to the Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) control module, which relays the signal to the appropriate front turn signal. The front turn signals are grounded at G101 and G102. The rear turn signals are grounded at G401. The sidemarker lamps are grounded through the corresponding front parklamp.
The sideview mirror turn signals are a bank of LEDs placed behind the mirror glass.
The hazard lamps operate on battery voltage. The HAZARD fuse supplies battery voltage to the turn signal switch. When the hazard switch is pressed, the turn signal switch sends battery voltage to the hazard lamp/turn signal flasher, which sends an on-off signal to the turn signal switch. The turn signal switch send the on-off signal to all the turn signal lamps, causing all the lamps to flash including both IPC turn signal indicators. The hazard lamp/turn signal flasher is grounded at G200.
When the parklamps are ON, the sidemarker lamps receive voltage from the park lamp supply voltage circuit and illuminate. The sidemarker lamp is grounded through the corresponding rear turn signal. When the turn signal switch is place in the left or right hand position, the rear turn signal illuminates and the sidemarker lamp will loose its ground, causing the sidemarker lamp to turn off when the turn signals are on and to illuminate again when the turn signal is off.
Which blub an socket did you replace ? check the other blub ? The switch and or the flasher module can cause this problem .
Replace the turn signal switch. Refer to Multifunction, Turn Signal, and Hazard Switch Replacement - On Vehicle in Steering Wheel and Column.
Did you complete the replacement?
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