OLD ONE WORKS ONLY WHEN I PUSH IT DOWN MANUALLY. NEW ONE DONT WORK, CANT PUSH MAUALLY. I HAVE AC IF I LEAVE A BRICK ON OLD ONE. I THINK I NEED 24VAC ON TWO SIDE POLES? BUT I MEASURE VOLTS, ONLY GET .5. WHERE AM I SUPPOSED TO GET 24VAC FROM?
This is a contactor and should have 24 volts across the control terminals normally on the sides. The 24 volts comes from the transformer that feeds the stat and all the controls for the system. Normally located in the furnace section. If the inside blower is coming on sounds as though your losing it going to your contactor, broken wire or manual reset safety??
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you cant use that thermostat for a heat strip,your thermostat only gives 9 volts to tell the heat pump to come on,a heat strip needs 220 volts to run,DO NOT PLAY WITH ELECTRIC HEATERS!!you do not know what you are doing and can burn your house down or hurt someone!!
No it means you 50 degree one is working better than perfect. Clean the one that is only getting down to 60 degrees but remember if a unit is dropping the air temp by 20 degrees its working fine. You ck this by cking the air at the intake where the filter is say temp is 80 degrees and then take a reading at a discharge vent where the cold air comes out if its 60 you have a 20 degree drop and that is considered good. If the unit was low on freon the unit will freeze up (ice will form on the inside coil).
You should have the manual for this unit handy and as far as recharging tools go. You only need a can of R134a *(if the unit is R12 you need to buy upgrade adapters since R12 is no longer sold) Run the unit and put the R134a filler line on the low pressure side of the compressor *(from manual...dont guess as trying to charge the high pressure side is VERY dangerous). Get the charge just into the Green zone on your charger and that is it! Try not to fill too high in the green zone....I know it sounds funny...but AC's usually work better when they have the low end of their optimum fill. R134a doesnt work as well as R12 so be sure you buy the R134a with cooling enhancers. Your local Autozone can guide you to the right filler/product combination.
Tried this on my unit today, and observed the same results, but got Aux Heat (with A setting), if the H (blue wire) connected to B terminal, as per instructions for my 6036 Ritetemp. However, in this case, when the set temp is reached, I hear the click, but HVAC still blows aux heat indefinitely.
I also have RUUD UBEA 17J10..., and replaced my old honeywell with 6036, and can't get heat pump working. Both of my units are 14 years old, so I'm thinking to replace them soon.
how long do you leave it unplugged for? try a couple of hours to let any memory voltage dissipate and clear memory, then retry, also does it have any troubleshooting ideas in the owners manual, possibly a certain way of steps to un glitch unit and make operational again
to see if it is the t-stat or the system you can unwire the entire t-stat and jump out the wires. never touch the blue to any other wire or you will blow the low voltage fuse on new board. if you jump red to yellow and your condensing unit cycles on the t-stat is wired wrong or wrong style. If not go check the yellow wire at cond. unit and see if power is even going to it.
Found system was slowly loosing coolant through a variety of miniscule leaks in rusting part of condenser. Apparently coolant level had dropped sufficiently in the blower repair interval to where the system no longer functioned with adequate efficiency. Bottom line - low coolant level as is the first suggestion in most related ac repair forum sites. I'm buying a Trane, this system is no longer economically feasible to maintain.