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My hoover condenser dryer model VHC 381 is not blowing any warm air thru the heating elemet is not warming up the drum turns and everthing else works properly but the clothes are left cold and wet, Is there a thermal cut out or a reset button perhaps,Also the filter care light flashes but this was flashing before it stopped working even though we always keep the filter clean.I WOULD BE GRATEFUL FOR ANY HELP OR ADVICE YOU COULD GIVE CONCERNING THIS . YOURS SINCERELY ALAN

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  • Hoover Master
  • 7,482 Answers

Hi Alan....

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Posted on Dec 31, 2010

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Fixed: dryer not heating up (Hoover vision hd 381)

Just fixed a hoover vision hd 381 tumble dryer. Thanks to the help on this site and others. Thought I would share my experience here. Problem was tumbledryer not getting hot. Traced it fairly quickly to a blown heating element. Took the back heater cover off (bulging silver panel), unscrewed heater, peered inside and it was somewhat charred (tested the thermostats which were fine). Dryer works now.

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In fact it is not necessary to strip down the unit at all to do this, apart from one thing: putting the grommet back for the new heater. It needs to be pushed from the inside. This probably isn't strictly necessary (I say probably), but I did it anyway. I suspect the grommet is there so that if the heater hangs free, it doesn't pull the wire up and stress the plugs. But I wanted to put the thing back exactly like I found it.

However, you still don't need to take the drum out to do this. You do however need to take the plastic mounting off that supports the drum. Then you can reach in with your hand and manouver the grommet into place.

So the repair ideally should be firstly to replace the heater in the way described above. Then put the cover back on as you'll need the unit on its back later.

Briefly, instructions for stripping down the unit:
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ii) Disconnect the door by undoing the allen key screws. Once these are off, lift the door off.

iii) Unscrew the plastic faceplate from the top (2 screws), to reveal two of 8 screws holding the metal front in place. I wired the plastic faceplate (with control knobs) onto the unit so I could still access these 2 screws, without the faceplate hanging free and risking disconnecting something.

iv) Unscrew the remaining 6 screws (4 near the rubber seal, 2 at the very bottom). Remove the rubber seal carefully.

v) Lift the metal front off, and disconnect the wires (keep track of which goes where!) Place the machine on its back (support it with blocks where the bulging heating element is).

vi) Unscrew the four nuts holding the plastic mounting which supports the drum.

vii) Slide the plastic mounting up by about 10mm and hinge it out from the bottom. This lifts the felt seal off the drum. The machine needs to be on its back so the drum which is now only held on to the back plate doesn't stress itself under its own weight. Make sure you know where the wires need to be fed. I took videos and pictures on my phone at each step.

viii) It should now be possible to reach in past the drum and click the grommet back in place.

cheers

Mat
(matskm@gmail.com if anyone wants to ask questions).

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