Question about Kitchen Ranges

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I have a oven/ceramic cooktop that is just over 3 years old. About 1 1/2 years ago, one of the hotplates stopped regulating temps, if it was 'on' it was 'high'. Since then, one by one, all four have contracted the same problem. When I contacted FP they suggested that the elements would need replacing. This does not make sense to me as they all work (too well) so I was thinking the limiters or a thermostat... advise would be much appreciated Susan

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  • wilgas Jul 08, 2008

    It is nobs & I think you have solved my problem..thanks

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I need more information. What kind of controls? A knob you turn or computer touch controls? If it is a knob it is most likely the switch is bad. THese cost around $25 each. The control switch controls the heat by pulsing the element on and off . High is constantly on, lowest setting is around 5% on. This is usually an easy repair. THe switches have 4 - 6 wires. 2 marked L 1 and L2 (Usually black and Red) Two terminals marked Load 1 and Load 1 , Maybe a neutral and a pilot light terminal. Do not mix up the L1 and L2. The load terminals (going to burners) really don't matter. They may even be the same color. THe L1 & L2 terminals must be the same on all 4 switches. The switch you get as a replacement may look different from the original. As long as you ordered by model and serial # they will fit.

Posted on Jul 08, 2008

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How do I change my whirlpool super capacity 465 from natural gas to propane


The documentation for Whirlpool appliances is available here: http://www.whirlpool.com/custserv/index.jsp . Enter the full model number from the oven rim inside the drawer. The installation guide will walk you through the conversion. However, it is recommended that a qualified technician (for LP, if going to LP) do the conversion. Most LP companies will have someone who can perform the conversion. The conversion kit should have come with the documentation for the range.

I've found one model of Super Capacity 465 with the model number SF325PEEQ0. The documentation is here: http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/product_literature/search_results.jsp?form_state=literatureSearch&context=&siteCd=WHRCOM&form_state=literatureSearch&searchTerm=SF325PEEQ0 .

The steps: Make sure the power cord is disconnected, the gas supply is turned off and the grates and burner bases are removed from the top burners. Open the broiler door and locate the regulator, remove the cap from the regulator and turn it over so that LP is visible. Reinstall the cap. Do not remove the regulator. Move the range out from the countertop (about 4") if it is in place. Slide a putty knife carefully between the cooktop and the oven compartment to locate one of the clips on the side 2 3/8" back from the front of the range. While gently lifting up on the cooktop surface, push in on the clip. Repeat on the other side. Prop up the cooktop and remove the Venturi plates. Then remove one orifice at a time from the cooktop, use a 3/8" combination wrench. Replace with the same colored orifice from the kit. Lower the cooktop and reinstall all of the burner bases and other parts. In the oven, use a 1/2" combination wrench to tighten the orifice hood down to the pin (2 to 2 1/2 turns). Do not overtighten. Finish installing the range except for sliding it into the final position and then check the burners. You may need to adjust the air shutter for each burner. With the burners off, remove the knobs. Open the oven door and remove three screws from the manifold panel. Pull the panel down and away from the range. With a small screwdriver, adjust the air shutters for each burner (clockwise to let in more air, counterclockwise to reduce the air). Replace the manifold and then the control knobs and check the burners. Start the oven heating and check the burner for it. There is another air shutter next to the regulator; adjust if needed.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Mar 03, 2011 | Whirlpool Kitchen Ranges

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My GE RGB745 Oven Igniter died while its Broil Igniter still works. I decided...


This advice is for GAS ovens with glow bar type igniters. This is a fairly simple repair that MOST do-it-yourselfers can accomplish with just a little guidance. But, first, here’s a little gas oven theory to help you better understand how to determine if an igniter is bad:

The way the ignition system in most of today’s ovens work is like this:

  1. Set the oven or broiler temperature.
  2. The igniter begins to glow.
  3. Once the igniter reaches a certain current potential, the gas safety valve opens.
  4. Gas is introduced into the manifold and you have ignition.
  5. NOTE: It can take roughly 30 – 90 seconds from the time you set your oven temp to the time it takes for the gas to ignite.

NOTE: This is a designed safety feature of the oven to prevent free flowing gas from accumulating in your home without ignition. That’s why you typically don’t hear any gas flowing when you have an igniter problem. You might think you have a gas problem when actually you have an ignition problem.

TWO BASIC IGNITER TYPES:

Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) – needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton (Rectangular in shape) – needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.

NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.

An easy way to determine if you may have an igniter problem is to check BOTH your oven features. If the oven doesn’t light, check the broiler and vice versa. Since both the BROIL manifold and BAKE manifold are fed from the same gas source, but have separate igniters, it’s an easy assumption to make that the igniter may be bad, if one or the other doesn’t light.

The igniter typically goes bad in one of two ways, the igniter either stops glowing completely, or becomes weak over time and doesn’t produce enough current to open the gas safety valve (in this case the igniter will still glow but the oven still won’t light). Longer ignition times can be another symptom of an igniter possibly going bad.

For this solution, however, we’re going to assume you have a bad igniter and need to replace it. Follows these steps:

NOTE: The same method applies to both the broiler and bake manifold.

  1. UNPLUG the range and turn the gas off if you have a local gas cut-out valve (it is recommended that you do).
  2. Open oven door and remove (if possible). Refer to your owner’s manual to see if there are instructions on how to remove the oven door. Some have spring-loaded locking hinges, while others just lift out. If you cannot figure out how to remove the oven door, use care not to lean on the door or put too much weight on it. A common complaint following any kind of oven maintenance is that the oven door doesn’t shut correctly any longer. This is usually caused by bending the hinges or springs coming loose.
  3. Remove the oven racks, and remove the oven pan. (There are usually two screws either in the back or front of the oven holding the pan in place).
  4. Remove the Flame Spreader. This is a metal plate on top of the manifold.
  5. The igniter will be mounted directly to the gas manifold. Follow the wires that lead to igniter. It will either be plugged into a connector, or be connected together with ceramic wire lugs. Your replacement igniter should come with extra ceramic wire lugs. In the event the plug does not match the one on your range, cut the wires and connect using the ceramic wire lugs. DO NOT use standard wire lugs, they are not heat resistant and will melt.
  6. Unplug the old igniter and remove the mounting screw holding it to the gas manifold.
  7. Install new igniter on gas manifold using care not to handle the element on the igniter with your hands. The oil from your hands can cause damage and/or premature failure. The igniter is also considered FRAGILE.
  8. Reconnect the wires using the recommendations mentioned in Step 5.
  9. Plug in the range, turn the gas valve back on and do a visual test by setting the oven temperature to the desired range. Allow 30 – 90 seconds for the igniter to light the gas. Turn oven off and allow sufficient time to cool. If the oven has only been lit for a minute or so, the cool down period will be brief.
  10. Reinstall the flame spreader, oven pan, and racks. Reinstall door if necessary.

Most igniters cost around $50. Prices will vary with models. I hope this information is helpful.

on Apr 24, 2008 | GE Profile Spectra JGBP90 Gas Kitchen...

1 Answer

Cooker trips main fuse board when top rings are operated


How many hotplates are there on the cooktop? How many elements are being used, oven and grill included, when the fuse blows? Is there one or two circuit breakers or fuses in the fuse board for the range? Need to know these details to be able to help.

Feb 23, 2011 | Rangemaster Classic 110 Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Hi, I have a wonderful Maytag speckled black smooth top stove. Over Christmas someone caused a big (2 " diameter) stain. I've tried everything to get it out. is it possible to have a new ceramic...


Ceramic cooktop cleaning tips - especially for 2-in difficult-to-remove stain:
Best Idea: "Cerama Bryte" + plastic scrubbie
Cerama Bryte is specifically designed for this cooktop, works on stains, avail at Hardware Stores.

Other ceramic cooktop tips:
1. "Soft Scrub" plasic scrubbie
2. Comet cleanser + sponge
3. Single-edge razor blade held at 45-degree angle - scrapes off material
4. "Cook Top" cleaner (WalMart) + Mr. Clean "Magic Eraser" abrasive pad
5. baking soda on damp sponge
6. soak stain for awhile with Formula 409, Fantastic, or citrus degreaser ("Orange Clean")
7. ammonia + water - in a 1:1 solution
8. Easy Off oven cleaner - it foams on the stain and does the work for you - let it sit 20 min.
9. the nuclear option:
Cerama Bryte under a plastic scrubbie under an orbital sander with sandpaper removed
(just the pad down on top of the scrubbie), after pre-soaking in Citrus Degreaser.
The sander is a power tool which only saves your joints, and speeds up the chore.

Jan 17, 2011 | Maytag MER5775Q Electric Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Oven not cooking at correct temperature & loses heat


Had a similar issue - but my unit is eight years old. Turns out my issues were my oven ignitors were failing and one of the burners had corroded causing the flame to only light on one side. To fix I replaced two ignitors (apparently they are to be replaced every 3-5 years) and cleaned the burner with a brass wire brush. If you are handy the ignitors are easy to replace - one screw and two wires each. Burner was one screw to remove.

Ceramic ignitors if wearing out can cause delayed lighting of the oven burners and/or reduce the gas flow - hence not heating up.

That was my experience ....

Jan 11, 2010 | Viking VGSC366-6B Gas Kitchen Range

2 Answers

Cleaning ceramic cooktop


We use DeBruce Polish on our cooktops. DeBruce is safe on these surfaces and also works on stainless steel and polished granite counter tops. We get DeBruce on line at debrucepolish.com

Aug 11, 2009 | Maytag MER5775Q Electric Kitchen Range

1 Answer

7 year old white ceramic cooktop stained


I have heard of people using a product called Bar Keepers Friend with great success

Dec 05, 2008 | Frigidaire FEF336BC Electric Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Oven does not heat up


there is a fuse that controls the oven functions.. try replacing it.. good luck!

Dec 02, 2008 | Frigidaire FGF337EC Stainless Steel Gas...

1 Answer

Hotpoint 30" self cleaning gas range with sealed burners - no bake


It may be the ignitor, they can crack and you wouldn't even see. Good news is they are cheap ($5-20) and they are usually easy to replace. But before you replace it...

When set to bake, does the "oven cycle" light come on? If not, that means no power is being sent to the ignitor. Reason? There is a switch in the oven latch, to make sure a) latch must be closed for cleaning cycle and b) latch must be unlocked for baking. On mine, the switch button gets stuck, so even when the latch is unlocked, it thinks it is locked and will not allow the bake cycle to proceed. Cycling the latch a few times may free it, otherwise you'll need to replace the switch (not that hard but a bit of a pain to get to).

Nov 15, 2007 | Kitchen Ranges

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