Question about Sears Craftsman LiftMaster Chamberlain Garage Door Opener Wireless Keypad Model 976LM Security+

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The battery backup beeps and the service light is on. The battery tests good with a volt meter

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This is battery related. On top of your unit is a battery pack with three colored led lights. You can tell what is going on by looking at these. This information is in your manual or here it is.
GREEN LED: All systems are normal. A solid LED light indicates the batteries are fully charged. A flashing LED indicates the batteries are being charged. NOTE: Batteries do not have to be fully charged to operate the motor unit. YELLOW LED: The motor unit has lost power and is operating off of the BBU. A solid LED with beep, sounding approximately every 2 seconds, indicates the motor unit is activating the door and is operating off of the BBU. A flashing LED with beep, sounding every 30 seconds, indicates batteries are low. Once the power is restored the BBU will recharge. This is indicated by a flashing green LED. RED LED: An error has been detected and the BBU will automatically shut off. The BBU will attempt to restart by reconnecting to the batteries. If the error is still present it will shut itself off again. This process will repeat every 5 minutes or until the error has been resolved. This is used to prevent further draining of the batteries. If a red LED remains on when the power is restored, and is accompanied by a beep sounding every 30 seconds, please call for service.


Posted on Dec 31, 2010

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Can your charge the batteries at a gas station, then plug in to see if the internal charger is blown? Or just take out the batteries and disconnect them, Then, hook up a volt meter to the batteries. If <5 volts , replace and try again. Mine wouldnt work and when I put in a spare, worked fine. One of the 12V batteries was D E A D. As to not charging fault, with a known good batte[ry] [ries] in, measure the voltage. SHould be about 13 volts or more after a while. If say 12V, you may have a dud transformer, fuse or rectifier (diode). I had a blown fuse and and open transformer after hurricane Sandy. Replaced botha nd it works fine now.

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Hi Anonymous, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12 volts or better after charging.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at both ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. Clip a testlite to a good ground and touch regulator pin, if light glows replace regulator.
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
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Hi Anonymous, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12 volts or better after charging.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at both ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace rotor. Good luck

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Hi Kellyafurlon, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12 volts or better after charging.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at both ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
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After leaving the last gas stop returning from a 1700 mile ride, the check eng light came on, the volt meter read 8-9 volts. Shut off the passing lights and the volt meter slowly rose to 11-12 volts. Next...


Ok, let's check the charging system. The battery is easy. Take the battery out of the bike and take it to an automotive parts store. Ask them to load test the battery for you. If the battery is over two years old, it could need replacing.

Once you're sure the battery is good and it is FULLY CHARGED, we can test the rest of the system. You'll need a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to check the system. With the battery back in the bike, connect the DVOM across the battery. Red meter lead to the positive terminal of the battery, black meter lead to the negative. Put the meter's function selector switch in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLTS or greater. Start the bike and bring it to a high idle. The meter should read 14.5 - 15.0 volts.

Now, to test the stator, follow the wires from your regulator down to where it goes into the engine cases. Disconnect the connector and look into the engine side of it. You'll see two metal contacts down in there. Set you meter's function selector to AC VOLTS, 50 VOLTS or greater. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Touch each one of the metal contacts down in the engine side of the connector with a meter probe. It makes not difference since we're measuring AC voltage at this point. The meter should read at least 30 volts.

Now, if the alternator (stator test) does not put out at least thirty volts, the stator is bad and needs to be replaced. If the alternator does check good but not enough voltage at the battery, your regulator may be the culprit. Make sure all connections are clean and tight and that the body of the regulator is grounded good. Recheck the test at the battery. If it still fails, replace the regulator.

Now, I've seen may problems such as your's that are intermittant. In other words, the problem is here on minute and gone the next. I fought that on one bike for over a year until we finally replaced the entire charging system and fixed it. If your bike proves to be doing that, you may wish to consider that option. Fix the thing and be done with it. I wouldn't buy the rotor, just the stator and the regulator.

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