No blower/motor not receiving power/heat elements working/all fuses good/limit switches have power through them/ power stops at the sequencer.

It's possible that the sequencer needs to be replaced, as it's responsible for turning on and off the different heating elements in a certain sequence. However, it's also possible that the issue could be with another component, such as the high limit switch or a faulty heating element. It would be best to have a qualified technician diagnose and troubleshoot the issue to determine the root cause and recommend the appropriate solution.

Most electric furnaces use time delay relays called sequencers to turn the heating elements on and off. If your thermostat is calling for heat, the sequencer coil should get 24 volts and the contacts will close in a pre-determined order bringing on each element individually. If the sequencer coil is getting 24 volts and the elements are not heating, then one of the following issues is going on. 1. The sequencer contacts are not closing because it is defective. Therefore the heating element is never getting proper voltage (usually 208/230V) 2. The heating element may be broken. 3. The high temperature limit switch for the element may be open, not allowing proper voltage to the element, or 4. The element is not getting proper voltage because of a blown fuse, tripped breaker, or broken wire. I hope this helps!!!

Yes your sequencer is the switch to energize the elements & sometime the low speed on the blower motor. It completes the 240 volts going to the elements. The sequencer turns the elements on in stages as well as the blower, & most sequencers have numbers on the side to tell what thermal disk turns on first. The blower, & one element should be wired on the 1 & 2 terminals (this turns on first when the sequencer coil is energized & shuts off last when the coil is de-energized). If any of the thermal discs are stuck closed, this will constantly energize the element on that switch.

The click is most likely the timer motor moving the dial on the timer. The motor circuit on American dryers is 120 volts whilst the heater requires 240 volts to operate its 5k element. The motor circuit always has the fuse in it. The heating element has limits mounted on it but they only kill power to the element and not the motor. Fuses are usually located on the blower housing next to the control thermostat. MORE HERE


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There are several things that can prevent a dryer from not heating.. Unplug Power Before checking.
Electric Models
1- Power- Your dryer runs on 220volts. 110 runs the entire dryer and 110 runs just the element. Your breaker may have half tripped. Check to see if you are getting the correct amount of power by using a ohm meter. Also check the power cord for burn marks on the plugin and the cord itself.
2- The thermal fuse can prevent this from heating. The thermal fuse is a sensor on the blower housing the measures the temperature of the air. There is a cycling thermistat near the thermal fuse. If the dryer temp gets over 190-220 degrees the thermal fuse will blow to cut power to the element to prevent fire. You can test this by using a continuity tester.
3- High limit and/or thermal cutoff. These are both sensors on the heating element housing. Thermal cutoff is at the top and the high limit is near the bottom above the heating element connectors. Test these with a continuity tester.
4- Heating element- Just below the high limit on the heater housing. Test for continuity.
5- Motor- The motor has to reach a certain rpm to activate a sinfrigrial switch inside the motor. If the rpm is not reached it will not allow current to go to the element.
6- Timer- Make sure you are trying this on timed dry. Sometimes people use air fluff and forget to change it back. The timer could also not be sending current to the heater.

Gas models
1- Electric ignitor- Inside the flame tunnel inside of dryer near where gas line hooks up. Usually if it glows than it is still good but check to see if it is sending and amp signal to the heat coils.
2- Heater coils are two valves that open up when the ignitor send signal saying the ignitor can ignite the gas. Heat coils will not open to send gas if it does not receive a signal from the ignotor. They look like two round disk with two wires running from ignitor.
3- Flame sensor- Change if you change the heater coils. The flame sensor could not be detecting the flame inside so it shuts down the ignitor.
4- Motor- See above
5- Timer See above

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in addation to checking the high limit t-stat have you checked the thermal cut off (the small t-stat) on the heater housing where the element fits into, the high limit t-stat and the thermal cut off BOTH shoud have 0 ohms (the thermal fuse is in the blower housing) the cut off is on the heater box, if you have checked those to be good, check that the heat relay on the control board is closing and sending power to the element, if not replace the control, if all above are good then the motor switch is bad and not sending power to the element(thats a built in safety feature so the dry would never heat when the motor isnt running)the element of course heats only when 240 volts ac is to the element ,120vac from the relay on control through the high limit t-stat then through the thermal cut off finally to the element and 120vac from the motor switch for a comined 240 vac

The heating circuit is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The problem is very likely in the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat located on the blower housing. The thermal cut-off blows when the high-limit thermostat fails and cuts power to the heating element. Both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat need to be replaced if the former is blown open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this kind of problem.

Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers Running But Not Heating

There are two thermostats, a 'limit' or 'operating' thermostat which turns the heating element on and off, and a 'high limit' or 'safety' thermostat which oversees the 'operating' thermostat by opening and removing power to the heating element when the upper limit temperature is reached. Basically, the only difference between these two are the temperature ratings. The 'high limit' is higher than the 'operating' thermostat. The thermal fuse is the last resort protection.

First and foremost, you must know that every inch of your exhaust vent pipe is clean.

Usually, a bimetallic limit switch will degenerate in the direction of too low of a temperature range because as the parts wear out inside, the mechanical tolerance widens (the tiny rod that pushes the contacts together gets shorter).

The high limit thermostat is by the thermal fuse. The operating thermostat is in the blower housing.

Check the fan impeller for broken vanes and lint. The impeller is directly coupled to the motor and should not turn without the motor. The fan housing and ducting should be free of excess lint.

Good luck.

first, check the fuse for the blower motor. If ok, you may have a bad switch or bad blower motor. If you are a techie, you should jumper 12 volts to the blower motor hot terminal. see if it blows then. You also have a blower motor resister that gives you the 4 blower speeds, but usually when it fails, you have high speed only.

good luck