Question about Campbell Hausfeld 8GAL Air Compressor

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During a run cycle the pump seemed to speed up but the tank was/is not receiving air. seems like a seal was broken or a valve did not open properly. motor and pump running but tank not filling. thanks paul

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If there are no leaks the head should be removed to check reed valves

Posted on Dec 30, 2010

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Drain clogged on MCBR415S


Unless that fridge has an automatic defrosting cycle, NO water should be collecting at the drain area under normal circumstances. The only time that drain is needed is during defrosting (manual or auto).
Does the unit ever turn the cool cycle off or is the fridge always running (does the fridge ever stop humming)? If the fridge is always running, ice will build up in the fridge and it is either because the thermostat is broken or the door is not sealing properly allowing the cold air to escape. This can be due to something inside the fridge is preventing the door from closing properly, the door itself being not properly aligned with the fridge compartment, a broken door seal or a bend door or a bend fridge frame.
Ice can build up fast when a fridge is installed in an area with high humidity (like in Florida) and the door is opened frequently (like every 5 minutes to get a beer out, like during a house party).
If the fridge door seems to seal properly and the fridge seems to keep things cool, it might be enough to defrost the fridge to get it back in proper operating condition.
When loading the fridge, allow enough space between items, to permit the air to circulate.
Good luck :)

Jan 06, 2014 | Magic Chef Refrigerators

1 Answer

High Electric Bill due to Well Pump Cycling On Frequently


The short run time of the pump indicates very litttle water volume is needed to reach to turn off pressure. To me this indicates you may have two problems. There is a leak somewhere in the system that allows the pressure to drop to the turn on point. Any check valve will fail eventually so barring any other leak that is your problem. I would think only one check valve is needed in the system so the second one may have been added to crutch the first one leaking. Normally the one check valve is placed on the pump before it is attached to the well pipe. The pump must be removed from the well to accomplish the replacement.

The second problem has something to do with the storage tank. If the pumps runs whenever you open a faucet or in your short cycle situation, then your tank is way too small or it is "water logged". Assuming it has been sized correctly, which means at least 20 gallon capacity then air needs to be added to the tank which will compress when the pump adds water until the high pressure setting is reached. When water is release to the house the air will expand until the low pressure setting is reached and the cycle repeats. The point here is that a significant quanity of water flows between pump cycles.

If your tank was installed in perhaps the last 20 years then it is likely a bladder type whitch contains the water so it never comes in contact with the steel tank, preventing internal corrosion and leaching of metals into the water. If the bladder has failed then the formally isolated air will have been absorbed by the water and your short cycling condition develops. That is what happens in non bladder tanks so air needs to be added periodically. I think all bladder tanks have a car tire like valve stem attached to the tank so that the opperating pressure can be set by the manufacture. The valve stem rairly leaks so bladder failure causes the loss of the air in the tank. There should be a label on the tank specifying the factory pressure. Use a tire gauge to test for the proper pressure. Add air if it is below setting.

Jan 07, 2013 | Water ACE SUBMERSIBLE SUMP PUMP 1/3 HP

1 Answer

96 cherokee xj trouble codes list?


The error codes are given below

1192 Inlet air temperature sensor voltage is wrong
1193 Inlet air temperature sensor voltage is wrong
1194 Oxygen sensor heater performance is faulty
1195 Oxygen sensor is slow
1196 The oxygen sensor switched too slowly (bank 2).
1197 The oxygen sensor switched too slowly (bank 1).
1198 Radiator coolant temperature sensor voltage is wrong.
1199 Radiator coolant temperature sensor voltage is wrong.
1281 The engine is staying cold too long - check your thermostat.
1282 The fuel pump relay circuit seems to be having a problem.
1288 The intake manifold short runner tuning valve circuit seems to be having a problem.
1289 There's a problem in the manifold tuning valve solenoid control circuit.
1290 Compressed natural gas system pressure is too high
1291 The heated air intake sensor does not seem to be working.
1292 Natural gas pressure sensor issue
1293 Natural gas pressure sensor issue
1294 Can't get to target engine speed, check for vacuum leaks and idle speed motor issues.
1295 The throttle position sensor doesn't seem to be getting enough electricity.
1296 The MAP sensor doesn't seem to be getting enough electricity.
1297 The MAP sensor doesn't change its reading when the engine is running!
1298 During wide-open throttle, the engine runs lean.
1299 MAP Sensor and Throttle Position Sensor signals don't match, check for a vacuum leak.
1388 Auto shutdown relay circuit problems?
1389 No Z1 or Z2 voltage seen by the computer when the auto shutdown relay is used.
1390 Cam and crank signals don't match - did the timing belt skip a tooth?
1391 Sometimes, I can't see the crank or cam sensor signal.
1398 I can see the Crank Sensor's signal when I prepare for Misfire Diagnostics. Try replacing it.
1399 Problem in the Wait to Start Lamp circuit - (diesels only?)
1403 EGR position sensor not getting (enough) voltage.
1476 Too little secondary air injection during aspirator test.
1477 Too much secondary air injection during aspirator test.
1478 Battery temperature sensor voltage wrong.
1479 Transmission fan relay circuit problems?
1480 PCV solenoid circuit problems?
1481 Transmission RPM pulse generator signal for misfire detection seems wrong.
1482 Catalyst temperature sensor circuit shorted low.
1483 Catalyst temperature sensor circuit shorted high.
1484 The catalyst seems to be overheating!
1485 Air injection solenoid circuit problems.
1486 Pinched or blocked hose in the evaporative hose system.
1487 Control circuit of the #2 high-speed radiator fan control relay is having problems.
1488 Auxiliary 5-volt sensor feed is too low.
1489 High speed radiator fan control circuit problem.
1490 Low speed radiator fan control circuit problem.
1491 Radiator fan control circuit problem (may be solid state relays as well as other circuits).
1492 Ambient or battery temperature sensor voltage wrong
1493 Ambient or battery temperature sensor voltage wrong
1494 Leak Detection Pump (LDP) pressure switch problem - electrical or the pump itself.
1495 Leak Detection Pump (LDP) pressure switch problem - the solenoid circuit.
1496 Sensor feed is below an acceptable limit. (under 4v for 4 seconds - should be 5v).
1498 High speed radiator fan control circuit problem. (#3 control relay)
1594 Voltage too high in charging system.
1595 Speed control vacuum or vent solenoid control circuits shorted or lost.
1596 Speed control switch always high
1597 Speed control switch always low
1598 A/C pressure sensor voltage high
1599 A/C pressure sensor voltage low
1681 No messages received from the cluster control module (dashboard computer).
1682 Charging system doesn't seem to be working well. Check alternator, etc.
1683 Speed control servo power control circuit problem.
1684 The battery has been disconnected within the last 50 starts.
1685 Invalid key received from the Smart Key Immobilizer Module.
1686 No messages received from the Smart Key Immobilizer Module.
1687 No messages received from the Mechanical Instrument Cluster module.
1 693 The companion engine control module has shown a fault.
1694 No messages received from the powertrain control module-Aisin transmission.
1695 No messages received from the body control module.
1696 Unsuccessful attempt to write to an EEPROM location!
1697 Unsuccessful attempt to update Service Reminder Indicator (SRI or EMR) mileage!
1698 No messages received from the electronic transmission control module or the Aisin transmission controller.
1719 Transmission 2-3 gear lockout solenoid control circuit problem.
1740 Either the tcc solenoid or overdrive solenoid systems doesn't seem to be making much sense.
1756 Transmission control pressure not equal to target. (Mid pressure problem)
1757 Transmission control pressure not equal to target. (Zero pressure problem)
1762 The Governor Pressure Sensor input was too high or too low for 3 consecutive park/neutral calibrations.
1763 The Governor Pressure Sensor input is too high
1764 The Governor Pressure Sensor input is too low.
1765 Open or short in the Transmission Relay control circuit.
1899 The Park/Neutral switch seems to be stuck!

Jul 18, 2010 | Directed Electronics Dei '96 To '98 Jeep...

1 Answer

My pump comes on and presurizes about every 20 to 30 minutes when there is not water being used in the house. If I shut the valve off from the pump to the storage tank the tank will stay presurized and...


It sounds like the check valve not holding. If there are no signs of any wetness from a leak the check valve in the pump ,seems to be letting water leak back in well.

May 14, 2010 | Plumbing

1 Answer

I have a Robinair 34134Z It will not recover freon It has 22HG suction The solenoid is working properly Auto freon goes back through the valves to the solenoid and the suction pulls 22 hg at the solenoid...


Please check the following: 1# Check the recovered amount of refrigerant since the last filter change(Max.filter cap.150 LBS/68 KG).If more then this you must change spin-on filter & vacuum pump oil.2# Check with vacuum gauge on compressor test(During compressor running) port & make sure it has 13"HG of suction,If suction less then 13''HG then you have to replace the compressor.3# Check all tank hose (Vaipor,Air purge & Liquid) is connected on the ISV tank quick seal.(Do not over tight).Hope this will solve your problem.

Dec 29, 2009 | Robinair Cool Tech 34700Z Recovery,...

1 Answer

Kenmore top loader washer - No spin - motor rattles - wtr pmp ok


Bad/broken coupler/ http://www.davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIY285753.htm

Sep 01, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

2 Answers

Gasoline pump at gas station keeps turning off


There is a vent valve located near the fuel tank. The vent valve is part of the EVAP emission system. If the valve is obstructed or failed, air will not escape while refueling.
Has the service engine light come on at all?
Regards,

Jul 14, 2009 | 1998 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

The dishwasher runs, but never seems to wash the dishes!


Make sure you get water to the dishwasher. Check to see if the water shut-off valve (located under the sink) is open. If you get water to the dishwasher, but there is still no water inside during the fill cycle, the problem might be with a faulty water valve (located at the bottom of the dishwasher, behind the kick panel, on either side), in which case replace the water valve.

Concerning the drainage issue(left over water at the bottom)


1. Air gap / Drain hoses
If there is an air gap (located in the sink, near the faucet), check to see if it is clogged. Unscrew the top cap and see if there is anything blocking inside. Note: If there is no air gap installed, the dishwasher might not drain properly.

If the drain hose is clogged, the dishwasher would not drain. If there is an air gap installed, it is very common that a hose going from the air gap into the garbage disposer is clogged. Remove and clean the hose. Make sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher.

Note: If you recently had a garbage disposer installed, it is common to overlook removing the drain plug.

2. Broken belt
Some dishwasher models use a belt to drive the pump. Replace the belt if found broken.

Note: Sometimes the belt would just come off the pump. Even though it might not be broken, it is recommended that you replace the belt, because it is probably too stretched out.

3. Pump
Some models have two impellers inside the pump - one, wash impeller, takes care of the wash cycles, the other, drain impeller, drains the water out. If the drain impeller is broken (broken blades, shaft), the dishwasher would not drain. Replace any broken pump components.

4. Drain solenoid
Some models (for example most GE dishwashers) use a drain solenoid to drain water out. Sometimes the solenoid gets stuck, preventing the water from draining out. Try to free up the solenoid. If unsuccessful, you might have to replace the pump assembly.

5. Motor
If the motor is stuck, it is sometimes possible to free it up by manually spinning the motor.

Replace the motor if defective.

6. Timer
Replace if defective (note: uncommon problem).

Jun 02, 2009 | Zanussi 18 in. ZDT5044 Built-in Dishwasher

1 Answer

Water drips into tank when no cycle is running


It leaks Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

  • Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


  • The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.


  • Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.


During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

  • Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


  • Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.


  • Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.


  • Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

May 12, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Noisey pump


Take the drain pump apart and look for debris, or broken pump impeller. Remove the lower spray arm and filter assembly, check for debris in the sump and check the drain check vavle to make sure it is sealing properly. While in there make sure the food disposer blade are not clogges with debris.

Jan 26, 2009 | Whirlpool 24 in. GU1500XTLS Stainless...

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