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I have installed a Y8610U Intermittent pilot retrofit kit in my old boiler. The unit is working fine when there is a call for heat. When the unit is in the idle state the green led flases 8 times then after 5 or so cycles of this, I hear a faint beebing and the igniter engages for a couple of seconds. In the manual it refers to a low secondary voltage supply but does not give any info on the igniter. I metered the voltage and it is 24 volt in the idle state.

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Blank screen sounds like a fried thermosat. Abrupt outages can affect certain types of thermostats. Make a jumper wire and jump across R and G. See if you get any action from anywhere. If a fan or compressor kicks in you know you have a burned out thermosat...

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bunnydawg
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i presume you live in a warm climate for one thing. the voltage regulator appears to be going bad... the problem with that is most modern alternators have them built into the starter. you may be able to r&r that part or you may have to replace the alternator.
If i remember right autozone will test it for free tho i'm not in the states myself so i'm not sure.

Robert

Posted on Dec 16, 2008

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Boiler won't fire the pilot is lit.


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Tip

This tip is 100% correct for newer heaters that have the electronic ignition...


On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed through the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).


Many newer furnaces have a diagnostic light viewed through a small window in either the top panel or bottom panel. If you remove a panel to see it, you may erase the code. If that happens, tape down the door safety switch and cycle the furnace with the panel off until the code appears again. Find the wiring diagram that is glued on one of the panels. There will be a diagnostic or error code chart that will give you a starting point where to look based upon the number of blinks the circuit board flashes.

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Hard to believe they sell a retrofit kit for a Gas furnace to a Customer....This is ahrd to advise you on with out seeing the schematic and if it is indeed intended for that furnace....the Spark mounting location is CRITICAL for safety so make sure that is correct above all.....OK The wire coming off the transformer and tied to the red wire going to the heat excghanger would most likely be a High Limit switch...cuts the gas off if the blower doesnt work etc or you would have a fire...so this switch must be in series with the transformer to cut power when the switch opens....the wire MV/PV coming from the "Electronic control box" needs to go to the New Gas Valve you should have which will have a termional marked MV/PV (Main valve/Pilot/valve) as your old one was for a standing pilot application and when you have electronic ignition you req a Gas valve for Intermittent pilot .....you should also have 2 more terminals on the valve MV and PV which will have seperate lines from the ignition control as well....basicvally there will be another wire coming from MV/PV going back to the transformer...make sure all wiring is correct and I would strongly advise you have a technician check your work before you attempt to use it....if wired incorrectly you could have a serious delayed ignition as its possible to power the main burner instead of the pilot if you wire it up wrong below is a typical spark wiring diagram....may not apply totally to your system but it will give you the general idea79f9627.gif

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