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I have 2 broken Braun gas curling irons, type 3587 and 3589. The irons will not ignite. I can hear the ignition process start but it doesn't complete the process and actually ignite and warm up. Both irons have the same problem. Is there anything I can do to fix them or anywhere I can send them to get them fixed as Braun is no longer making them and will not service them?

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  • hobus518 Jan 03, 2011

    There is no battery in the Braun gas curling iron. Braun no longer makes them and so they are not available unless you pay hundreds dollars for an item that used to cost $30. What I need is a way to fix them.

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My ex wife had one of these and swore by it but that was nearly 30 yrs ago ,i bought it for her actually if i remember rightly ,and hers went wrong on a camping holiday with same sort of fault ,i took the end off and then used a primus stove pin to clean the end of the jet out ,its as small pin on a stick for cleaning camping stove jets ,worked fine after that but it always seemed to cog up after a year or so though ,wonder if the toy boy she ran off with could repair it for her

Posted on Jan 03, 2011

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Your best bet would be to try E-bay or amazon .com for some new ones. I saw that there were some listed. If your battery is good and the fuel is full, the problem is the igniter.It may click like it is starting but you probably aren't getting a good enough spark to light the butane or the flame sensor is not picking the ignition up. I can't find anyplace that works on these. I saw a place that still sells these in Canada healthzone.shoptoit.ca.
I wish you the best of luck on getting some replacements

Posted on Jan 02, 2011

  • 2 more comments 
  • Dcramer531
    Dcramer531 Jan 03, 2011

    just looked at E-bay one for sale with a bid of $5.50 and one at $23.00. There is no one that works on these and I am sorry but I can't find parts as they are no longer made. There is no fix for the older ones once they wear out. I wished there was a better answer to give you.

  • Dcramer531
    Dcramer531 Jan 03, 2011

    I noticed also that there wer other brands beside braun with the cordless type that use butane and they are reletively cheap as well, the conair model is going for around $12.00 I can only hope you find what you need or a suitible replcement I wish that I could help everyone but sometimes I hit dead ends.

  • Dcramer531
    Dcramer531 Jan 03, 2011

    BRAUN CTS2 BRAUN ENERGY CELLS FOR BRAUN CURLING IRON
    BRAUN CTS2 BRAUN ENERGY CELLS FOR BRAUN CURLING IRON
    http://brauncurlingiron.com/images/pp.gi..." class="h_mi" /> US $8.00 Are you sure your iron does not have a battery? these are what is listed for these curling irons.

  • Dcramer531
    Dcramer531 Jan 03, 2011

    Braun Smoothstyler cordless butane curling iron brush
    Braun Smoothstyler cordless butane curling iron brush
    http://brauncurlingiron.com/images/pp.gi..." class="h_mi" /> US $23.50



    Braun Butane Curling Iron
    Braun Butane Curling Iron
    http://brauncurlingiron.com/images/pp.gi..." class="h_mi" /> US $5.50

    These are what is listed on Ebay. I wish yu the best of luck in either getting yours fixed or replaced.

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How to get Braun curling iron to heat?


Delilah, if it is a new curling iron and you plug it into a known good working outlet and does not heat up, it is defective. Return it to store for replacement or refund. If it is older and out of warranty, it is probably burnt out limit switch or may need rewired with new plug and cord(probably not cost effective, unless you can test and change)
Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck
"I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info."
How to fix broken curling iron Hot Tools repair
5 Troubleshooting Tips for Curling Irons
Hair Curler Repair How to Repair Small Appliances Fix It Club
The Beginner Guide to Repairing Curling Wand At Home

Aug 21, 2016 | Braun Irons

Tip

Replacing an Oven Igniter on a Gas Range


This advice is for GAS ovens with glow bar type igniters. This is a fairly simple repair that MOST do-it-yourselfers can accomplish with just a little guidance. But, first, here’s a little gas oven theory to help you better understand how to determine if an igniter is bad:

The way the ignition system in most of today’s ovens work is like this:

  1. Set the oven or broiler temperature.
  2. The igniter begins to glow.
  3. Once the igniter reaches a certain current potential, the gas safety valve opens.
  4. Gas is introduced into the manifold and you have ignition.
  5. NOTE: It can take roughly 30 – 90 seconds from the time you set your oven temp to the time it takes for the gas to ignite.

NOTE: This is a designed safety feature of the oven to prevent free flowing gas from accumulating in your home without ignition. That’s why you typically don’t hear any gas flowing when you have an igniter problem. You might think you have a gas problem when actually you have an ignition problem.

TWO BASIC IGNITER TYPES:

Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) – needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton (Rectangular in shape) – needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.

NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.

An easy way to determine if you may have an igniter problem is to check BOTH your oven features. If the oven doesn’t light, check the broiler and vice versa. Since both the BROIL manifold and BAKE manifold are fed from the same gas source, but have separate igniters, it’s an easy assumption to make that the igniter may be bad, if one or the other doesn’t light.

The igniter typically goes bad in one of two ways, the igniter either stops glowing completely, or becomes weak over time and doesn’t produce enough current to open the gas safety valve (in this case the igniter will still glow but the oven still won’t light). Longer ignition times can be another symptom of an igniter possibly going bad.

For this solution, however, we’re going to assume you have a bad igniter and need to replace it. Follows these steps:

NOTE: The same method applies to both the broiler and bake manifold.

  1. UNPLUG the range and turn the gas off if you have a local gas cut-out valve (it is recommended that you do).
  2. Open oven door and remove (if possible). Refer to your owner’s manual to see if there are instructions on how to remove the oven door. Some have spring-loaded locking hinges, while others just lift out. If you cannot figure out how to remove the oven door, use care not to lean on the door or put too much weight on it. A common complaint following any kind of oven maintenance is that the oven door doesn’t shut correctly any longer. This is usually caused by bending the hinges or springs coming loose.
  3. Remove the oven racks, and remove the oven pan. (There are usually two screws either in the back or front of the oven holding the pan in place).
  4. Remove the Flame Spreader. This is a metal plate on top of the manifold.
  5. The igniter will be mounted directly to the gas manifold. Follow the wires that lead to igniter. It will either be plugged into a connector, or be connected together with ceramic wire lugs. Your replacement igniter should come with extra ceramic wire lugs. In the event the plug does not match the one on your range, cut the wires and connect using the ceramic wire lugs. DO NOT use standard wire lugs, they are not heat resistant and will melt.
  6. Unplug the old igniter and remove the mounting screw holding it to the gas manifold.
  7. Install new igniter on gas manifold using care not to handle the element on the igniter with your hands. The oil from your hands can cause damage and/or premature failure. The igniter is also considered FRAGILE.
  8. Reconnect the wires using the recommendations mentioned in Step 5.
  9. Plug in the range, turn the gas valve back on and do a visual test by setting the oven temperature to the desired range. Allow 30 – 90 seconds for the igniter to light the gas. Turn oven off and allow sufficient time to cool. If the oven has only been lit for a minute or so, the cool down period will be brief.
  10. Reinstall the flame spreader, oven pan, and racks. Reinstall door if necessary.

Most igniters cost around $50. Prices will vary with models. I hope this information is helpful.

on Dec 04, 2009 | Kitchen Ranges

Tip

Replacing an Oven Igniter on a Gas Range


This advice is for GAS ovens with glow bar type igniters. This is a fairly simple repair that MOST do-it-yourselfers can accomplish with just a little guidance. But, first, here’s a little gas oven theory to help you better understand how to determine if an igniter is bad:

The way the ignition system in most of today’s ovens work is like this:

  1. Set the oven or broiler temperature.
  2. The igniter begins to glow.
  3. Once the igniter reaches a certain current potential, the gas safety valve opens.
  4. Gas is introduced into the manifold and you have ignition.
  5. NOTE: It can take roughly 30 – 90 seconds from the time you set your oven temp to the time it takes for the gas to ignite.

NOTE: This is a designed safety feature of the oven to prevent free flowing gas from accumulating in your home without ignition. That’s why you typically don’t hear any gas flowing when you have an igniter problem. You might think you have a gas problem when actually you have an ignition problem.

TWO BASIC IGNITER TYPES:

Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) – needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton (Rectangular in shape) – needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.

NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.

An easy way to determine if you may have an igniter problem is to check BOTH your oven features. If the oven doesn’t light, check the broiler and vice versa. Since both the BROIL manifold and BAKE manifold are fed from the same gas source, but have separate igniters, it’s an easy assumption to make that the igniter may be bad, if one or the other doesn’t light.

The igniter typically goes bad in one of two ways, the igniter either stops glowing completely, or becomes weak over time and doesn’t produce enough current to open the gas safety valve (in this case the igniter will still glow but the oven still won’t light). Longer ignition times can be another symptom of an igniter possibly going bad.

For this solution, however, we’re going to assume you have a bad igniter and need to replace it. Follows these steps:

NOTE: The same method applies to both the broiler and bake manifold.

  1. UNPLUG the range and turn the gas off if you have a local gas cut-out valve (it is recommended that you do).
  2. Open oven door and remove (if possible). Refer to your owner’s manual to see if there are instructions on how to remove the oven door. Some have spring-loaded locking hinges, while others just lift out. If you cannot figure out how to remove the oven door, use care not to lean on the door or put too much weight on it. A common complaint following any kind of oven maintenance is that the oven door doesn’t shut correctly any longer. This is usually caused by bending the hinges or springs coming loose.
  3. Remove the oven racks, and remove the oven pan. (There are usually two screws either in the back or front of the oven holding the pan in place).
  4. Remove the Flame Spreader. This is a metal plate on top of the manifold.
  5. The igniter will be mounted directly to the gas manifold. Follow the wires that lead to igniter. It will either be plugged into a connector, or be connected together with ceramic wire lugs. Your replacement igniter should come with extra ceramic wire lugs. In the event the plug does not match the one on your range, cut the wires and connect using the ceramic wire lugs. DO NOT use standard wire lugs, they are not heat resistant and will melt.
  6. Unplug the old igniter and remove the mounting screw holding it to the gas manifold.
  7. Install new igniter on gas manifold using care not to handle the element on the igniter with your hands. The oil from your hands can cause damage and/or premature failure. The igniter is also considered FRAGILE.
  8. Reconnect the wires using the recommendations mentioned in Step 5.
  9. Plug in the range, turn the gas valve back on and do a visual test by setting the oven temperature to the desired range. Allow 30 – 90 seconds for the igniter to light the gas. Turn oven off and allow sufficient time to cool. If the oven has only been lit for a minute or so, the cool down period will be brief.
  10. Reinstall the flame spreader, oven pan, and racks. Reinstall door if necessary.

Most igniters cost around $50. Prices will vary with models. I hope this information is helpful.

on Feb 18, 2008 | GE Profile Spectra JGBP90 Gas Kitchen...

1 Answer

Why does the curling iron not stay on and get hot


You have lost a soldered connection on the Circuit Board and it is time to throw it away for your own safety

Jul 17, 2014 | Thermacell Conair Cordless Curls Butane...

1 Answer

Propane is not igniting


Simple questions: Do you have LP gas in the tanks? Is the gas getting to the cook top, water heater and furnace? If not, check the main LP regulator. On the back of the refrigerator there is a small gas valve, is it open? Does the flame light but the igniter continue to click and then shut off? If it does you need to clean the igniter and make sure that the gap between the igniter and flame tube is set at approximately 1/8". If this is not the case you need to see if the gas valves are opening. When the refrigerator is turned on in gas mode, after a short pause you should hear the valves click and then the igniter will start its process. If you do not hear the valves click you will need to determine if they are getting power during that process. If they are not getting power then the circuit board is bad. If they are getting power but are not opening then the valves are bad.

Sep 23, 2013 | Dometic Refrigerators

1 Answer

Mod 417.94052500 won't heat


Have you tried to watch or listen to see if you hear it ignite and then it goes out or does it not try to ignite at all?
If it doesn't try to ignite at all, replace the igniter with this part.
If it ignites and goes out after a few seconds, replace the flame sensor with this part.

Oct 19, 2012 | Kenmore 77632 Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Not heating up


If this is an ELECTRIC dryer, the following link will give you some advice on how to troubleshoot a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

If this is a GAS dryer, the most common failure for heat related problems in a gas dryer is a weak or blown igniter on the burner assembly. The way the ignition system is supposed to work is like this:

1. Select the dryer cycle and press start.
2. The drum begins to spin and the igniter begins to glow.
3. Once the igniter reaches a certain current potential, the gas safety valve opens.
4. Gas is introduced into the manifold and you have ignition.

NOTE: It can take roughly 30 – 90 seconds from the time you start the dryer to the time it takes for the gas to ignite.

NOTE: This is a designed safety feature of the appliance that prevents free flowing gas from accumulating in your home without ignition. That’s why you typically don’t hear any gas flowing when you have an igniter problem. You might think you have a gas problem when actually you have an ignition problem.

TWO BASIC IGNITER TYPES:

Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) – needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton (Rectangular in shape) – needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.

NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.

The igniter typically goes bad in one of two ways, the igniter either stops glowing completely, or becomes weak over time and doesn’t produce enough current to open the gas safety valve (in this case the igniter will still glow but the dryer still won’t light). Longer ignition times can be another symptom of an igniter possibly going bad.

You can purchase a replacement at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The first three sites on the list also offer some excellent exploded view diagrams of the appliance.

If your replacement igniter comes with a connector plug that does not match your appliance, you will be instructed to cut the old plug off and splice the wires together using ceramic wire lugs included in the kit. Do not use standard wire lugs as they will melt.

If you have any questions, please post back with your complete model number and let me know. For future reference, always include a brand name and model number when posting questions. This makes it much easier to diagnose the problem. I hope this helps you.

Dec 23, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer is not heating


If this is an ELECTRIC dryer, the following link will give you some advice on how to troubleshoot a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

If this is a GAS dryer, the most common failure for heat related problems in a gas dryer is a weak or blown igniter on the burner assembly. The way the ignition system is supposed to work is like this:

1. Select the dryer cycle and press start.
2. The drum begins to spin and the igniter begins to glow.
3. Once the igniter reaches a certain current potential, the gas safety valve opens.
4. Gas is introduced into the manifold and you have ignition.

NOTE: It can take roughly 30 – 90 seconds from the time you start the dryer to the time it takes for the gas to ignite.

NOTE: This is a designed safety feature of the appliance that prevents free flowing gas from accumulating in your home without ignition. That’s why you typically don’t hear any gas flowing when you have an igniter problem. You might think you have a gas problem when actually you have an ignition problem.

TWO BASIC IGNITER TYPES:

Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) – needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton (Rectangular in shape) – needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.

NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.

The igniter typically goes bad in one of two ways, the igniter either stops glowing completely, or becomes weak over time and doesn’t produce enough current to open the gas safety valve (in this case the igniter will still glow but the dryer still won’t light). Longer ignition times can be another symptom of an igniter possibly going bad.

You can purchase a replacement at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The first three sites on the list also offer some excellent exploded view diagrams of the appliance.

If your replacement igniter comes with a connector plug that does not match your appliance, you will be instructed to cut the old plug off and splice the wires together using ceramic wire lugs included in the kit. Do not use standard wire lugs as they will melt.

If you have any questions, please post back with your complete model number and let me know. For future reference, always include a brand name and model number when posting questions. This makes it much easier to diagnose the problem. I hope this helps you.

Dec 22, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Will not heat up in any cycle


If this is an ELECTRIC dryer, the following link will give you some advice on how to troubleshoot a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

If this is a GAS dryer, the most common failure for heat related problems in a gas dryer is a weak or blown igniter on the burner assembly. The way the ignition system is supposed to work is like this:

1. Select the dryer cycle and press start.
2. The drum begins to spin and the igniter begins to glow.
3. Once the igniter reaches a certain current potential, the gas safety valve opens.
4. Gas is introduced into the manifold and you have ignition.

  1. NOTE: It can take roughly 30 – 90 seconds from the time you start the dryer to the time it takes for the gas to ignite.

NOTE: This is a designed safety feature of the appliance that prevents free flowing gas from accumulating in your home without ignition. That’s why you typically don’t hear any gas flowing when you have an igniter problem. You might think you have a gas problem when actually you have an ignition problem.

TWO BASIC IGNITER TYPES:

Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) – needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton (Rectangular in shape) – needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.

NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.

The igniter typically goes bad in one of two ways, the igniter either stops glowing completely, or becomes weak over time and doesn’t produce enough current to open the gas safety valve (in this case the igniter will still glow but the dryer still won’t light). Longer ignition times can be another symptom of an igniter possibly going bad.

You can purchase a replacement at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The first three sites on the list also offer some excellent exploded view diagrams of the appliance.

If your replacement igniter comes with a connector plug that does not match your appliance, you will be instructed to cut the old plug off and splice the wires together using ceramic wire lugs included in the kit. Do not use standard wire lugs as they will melt.

If you have any questions, please post back with your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the door opening) and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Dec 21, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

There is no heat


If this is an ELECTRIC dryer, the following link will give you some advice on how to troubleshoot a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

If this is a GAS dryer, the most common failure for heat related problems in a gas dryer is a weak or blown igniter on the burner assembly. The way the ignition system is supposed to work is like this:

1. Select the dryer cycle and press start.
2. The drum begins to spin and the igniter begins to glow.
3. Once the igniter reaches a certain current potential, the gas safety valve opens.
4. Gas is introduced into the manifold and you have ignition.

  1. NOTE: It can take roughly 30 – 90 seconds from the time you start the dryer to the time it takes for the gas to ignite.

NOTE: This is a designed safety feature of the appliance that prevents free flowing gas from accumulating in your home without ignition. That’s why you typically don’t hear any gas flowing when you have an igniter problem. You might think you have a gas problem when actually you have an ignition problem.

TWO BASIC IGNITER TYPES:

Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) – needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton (Rectangular in shape) – needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.

NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.

The igniter typically goes bad in one of two ways, the igniter either stops glowing completely, or becomes weak over time and doesn’t produce enough current to open the gas safety valve (in this case the igniter will still glow but the oven still won’t light). Longer ignition times can be another symptom of an igniter possibly going bad.

You can purchase a replacement at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The first three sites on the list also offer some excellent exploded view diagrams of the appliance.

If your replacement igniter comes with a connector plug that does not match your appliance, you will be instructed to cut the old plug off and splice the wires together using ceramic wire lugs included in the kit. Do not use standard wire lugs as they will melt.

If you have any questions, please post back with your complete model number and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Dec 17, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

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