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Re: GE Gas Dryer Replace the belt Model # DDG8280G
Usually there are one or two panel in the front that are held by some screws. Once removed the top panel is usually attached to the front panel and you can get a screwdriver and release the plastic push in retainers. Prop the top up and the drum is exposed. The belt usually goes around the drum down to a drive pulley on the bottom of the machine. You will need to route the belt around the drum in the front or back to get it routed correctly.
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You will need to replace the dryer belt and inspect the belt rollers while you have it apart. If you go to the web link below it explains how to take apart the dryer to replace the belt, it has additional links to pictures and diagrams within the instructions. The first link is for replacement parts with diagrams of the dryer. Here is that link:
** ALLWAYS unplug a dryer before working on it. Humming means the motor may not be turning. The motor could be 'capacitor start'. Replace the capacitor. The motor could be centrifugal start. Remove the belt. Still won't start? Replace the motor. The motor bearings could be seized. Rebuild the motor or replace it. The belt may be broken if the humming is a higher pitch. Replace the belt. The drum may be jammed. Clean and lube the main bearing (Use Maytag Turbine oil or the recommended lube), the support wheels or the guides. Replace felt seals at the same time for best results.
This is a GAS dryer, correct? That's what the model number you gave me referenced to. There is a thermal fuse on your dryer that you need to check. It should read a short (0 ohms) if good. Unfortunately, you will need to remove the drum to access it. Appliancepartspros.com has an excellent exploded view diagram of your dryer. Just type in the model number you provided and look under the "Drum" section for item 530. The thermal fuse detects an overheat condition and will trip like a fuse. You may have overheated the dryer when you were drying your comforter. When was the last time you had the exhaust ventilation ducting checked? If you can't remember, it may be a good time to inspect the ducting and dryer interior to ensure you have no clogs. Poor airflow is the number one cause of dryer failures. Just something else you may want to consider before replacing any components.
Another thing to check for is a broken belt. Your dryer is equipped with a broken belt interlock switch. If the belt snaps, the interlock stops the drum from turning to prevent the belt from wrapping around the motor shaft (a real bear to remove when this happens). A picture of the interlock can be viewed under the "Backsplash, Blower and Motor Assembly" section as item number 803. If you open the dryer and notice a broken belt, this may be your only problem. A new belt is listed as item 213. The key again, is the comforter. The heavy weight could have taken its toll on an old belt and it finally broke.
If you don't know how to route the dryer belt, repairclinic.com has dryer belt diagrams under their "Repair Help" section.
If my diagnosis is incorrect, please post back and elaborate a bit more on your symptoms.
If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
That I believe is an older model GE with the idler bar instead of the short bar. I believe there is also a rear panel that you can remove to gain access to it. I dont remember for sure if it keeps tension up or down. Loop your belt around the motor pully, then find out which way it keeps tension on the belt, then loop the belt around the idler pully and release so that it keep tension on the belt itself. Let me know if you need further information.