Question about Kenmore Dryers

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Dryer ( Kenmore series 80) runs but does not Heat. Checked the heating element, TCO, Hi-Limit thermostat, thermal fuse and the cycling thermostat. all appear okay. Where else could the problem be? Thanks,

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  • andrewi Dec 30, 2010

    my outlet has 4 recepacle pins. 2 flat opposite each other and then 1 round and 1 'L' shaped perpendicular to the flat ones. across which ones do i check. I had originally checked across the 2 flat and that was 240v.

    Thanks,

  • andrewi Dec 30, 2010

    I checked across each hot ( the flats prongs) and either neural/ground and one side is easy to get 120v but the other is harder. I then turned on the dryer and checked the heating element terminals and that is showing zero! should that not be 220V?

  • andrewi Dec 30, 2010

    Ok. did a few more check. Where the power cord comes into the machine there is a connector..so I plugged in the dryer cord to the wall and checked at the connector and there is 220v there. so it appears as though 220v is coming in the machine. However, I turned the dryer on and I checked the high-limit thermostat and got a zero reading just like at the heater terminals. Just to make sure, I also checked the Cycling thermostat and it showed the proper 120V. so it appears we are not getting anything at the heater terminals and hi-level thermostat.

    Ideas?

  • andrewi Dec 31, 2010

    I do not get any voltage with the dryer plugged in from either heater connector to ground but once **** turned on then I get 120v from either connector to ground.
    I unplugged the dryer and disconnected one side of each of the thermostats, fuses, etc, Once connected to the meter the meter jumps to a number and fluctuates a bit then settles on zero except for one. When I check the TCO the meter does not move from the starting position of 1. I also noticed that the clip on connector to the TCO has a slight burnt mark on it but the wires are fine. Is the TCO the problem?

  • andrewi Dec 31, 2010

    I don't see my last reply showing up... did you get it.

    Its says I get no movement on my meter when testing the TCO but movement on all other components that settle to zero.

    Am I not supposed to see the replies to you?

    Thanks,

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You are probably missing one leg of your 220 at the plug or screw terminal. BE CAREFUL THE VOLTAGE CAN HURT YOU. One leg is used for lights, panel power. Both legs together give 220vac for heating element power.

  • Remove power plug from wall...then check the wall outlet for 220 vac. / I \ from outside to inside conductor should be 120 vac on both sides ....from outside to outside conductor should be 220 vac.
  • If you have the voltage at the wall outlet ...check behind the plate where power cord is attached to dryer. Sometimes I have found a loose screw terminal would actually create enough heat to burn and make a bad electrical connection.
  • check this out and let me know how it goes.

Posted on Dec 30, 2010

  • neil osborn Dec 30, 2010

    Has your dryer been working okay in this location?
    Make sure that dryer is disconnected.
    Are you checking the thermostats and fuses with one side disconnected? Sometimes ohms measurements can be misread if one side is not disconnected. If you do not isolate the part you are measuring you will be measuring all the other components in that circuit.


    • did you check the resistance of the heater? Be sure to disconnect one side first.

    • after you check the ohms on the thermostats, and thermal fuse.

    • plug dryer in

    • check one side of heater to ground, it should be 120vac without dryer cycle turned on. This is one leg of the 220. The 120 on one side does not heat up the element. its waiting for the other side from the timer control.

    • now check voltage from one side of heater to ground for 120ac when timer cycle is turned for a normal heating cycle.

    • you may well have a bad timer....WARNING!!! I cannot verify 100% that that is what it is.

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1 Answer

Does the Kenmore Series 700 dryer use circuit breakers or a thermal fuse to shutoff the heating element?


All Kenmore Electric Dryers use a thermal cut-off or thermal cut-out, hi-limit thermostat, and a cycling thermostat apart from the motor centrifugal switch as parts of the heating circuit. The thermal cut-off/thermal cut-out and the hi-limit thermostat are located on the heater duct/element duct while the cycling thermostat is located on the blower housing.

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The thermal cut-off/cut-out serves as a safety measure and blows open should the dryer overheats or should the hi-limit thermostat fails to cut off power to the heating element. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off/cut-out and if open, replace it including the hi-limit thermostat.

Aug 22, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore Series 70 Dryer and I changed the thermal fuse got hot for a few minutes the model #110.74722400


The cycling thermostat must also be replaced when replacing the thermal fuse. The cycling thermostat's failure to cycle off the heating element results in overheating of the dryer which consequently blows the thermal fuse open.

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Replacing only the thermal fuse should the dryer stops running and fails to start will result in its premature blowing or even the thermal cut-out (cut-off) located on the heater duct. Like the cycling thermostat, the high-limit thermostat must also be replaced once the thermal cut-out blows open. Refer to the parts diagram in the link below and look for item numbers 31(thermal cut-off), 34(hi-limit thermostat), 39(thermal fuse), and 41(cycling thermostat.

Kenmore Series 70 Electric Dryer (110.74722400) Bulkhead Parts

Aug 21, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

No a kenmore 80 series dryer will not heat . if the heating elment is good & fuse is good what else could be the problem


The heating circuit is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The problem is very likely in the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat located on the blower housing. The thermal cut-off blows when the high-limit thermostat fails and cuts power to the heating element. Both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat need to be replaced if the former is blown open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this kind of problem.

Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers Running But Not Heating

Mar 09, 2011 | Kenmore Elite HE3 Steam 8676 Dryer

1 Answer

How do I know which thermal unit is the one that shuts the dryer off when the clothes are dry? one's called a cycling thermostat, another is called a fixed thermostat and the third is called thermal...


Usually the Fixed Thermostat (also known as the High Limit Thermostat) and Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) are used in conjunction to regulate and protect the heating circuits.

The Cycling Thermostat (also know as the Internal Bias) controls the amount of heat required/desired to dry your clothes.

You need to remove the rear panel of the dryer to access the heating circuits on this model dryer. With the back panel removed, the heating circuits will be on the right hand side and the blower fan assembly is located on the left. The Hi-Limit Thermostat and TCO are located on the outside of the heater box with the Hi-Limit Thermostat mounted next to the heating element terminals and the TCO located at the opposite end of the heater box. The Cycling Thermostat is located on the blower fan housing next the Thermal Fuse. It will be the metallic round component, while the Termal Fuse will be a white plastic component.

For better clarification, you can view an exploded view diagram of your appliance at pcappliancerepair.com. If you type in your model number, all the parts I've mentioned are listed under Section 3 (Bulkhead Parts). The components are listed as follows:

Item 6 - TCO/Hi-Limit Thermostat Kit (both parts should be replaced at the same time).
Item 15 - Hi-Limit Thermostat (sold separately)
Item 23 - Thermal Fuse
Item 24 - Cycling (Internal Bias) Thermostat

If you are experiencing heating problems or longer dry times, please review the following link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Pay particular attention to the section that discusses dryer ventilation. The majority of dryer heat related problems and failures are attributed to poorly installed, clogged, or kinked dryer ventilation. If you haven't had the ducting checked in a while, now may be a good time to do so.

If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Sep 10, 2009 | Roper REX4634KQ Electric Dryer

1 Answer

No heat,tumbles,but no heat. good cont. thru thermal fuse,no cont. thru thermostat internal bias? think that is my problem? Any thing else I should check? I get good cont. thru heat coil also. thanks mike


If the dryer runs, but does not heat, you need to check the Thermal Cut-out and Hi-limit thermostat. The following link explains:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

The TCO and Hi-Limit Thermostat are mounted on the heater box near the heating element. Read through the info I provided and double check the continuity of these components. If either the TCO, or Hi-Limit thermostat are bad, replace them BOTH at the same time. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any replaced components. They are commonly sold as a set.

NOTE: The Thermal Fuse and Internal Bias Thermostat are located on the air blower housing. If the Thermal Fuse were bad, the dryer would not run at all. The Internal Bias thermostat may still cause heating problems, but is less likely. Replace it if you like, but I think you may have a TCO that has failed.

If there has been a failure of the heating circuits, I would recommend you do a thorough cleaning of the dryer exhaust ventilation ducting to ensure you have no clogs. Poor air flow is the number one cause of dryer failures.

If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

May 05, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore 70 Series Dryer Model# 110.64742400


check the thermal fuse if it is blown also change the high limit thermal cut-off fuse www.repairclinic.com shows your parts. go there and enter model number. Also check the heat element. to get into it remove the lint filter and the two screws you'll see there then pry the top up at the front corners. And through the back you should find the heat element and blower housing and thermal fuse and high limit fuse and cycling thermostat.

Apr 06, 2009 | Kenmore 64742 Electric Dryer

2 Answers

TCO & HLtherm on Dryer


I think you've got your bases pretty well covered. I don't see a reason for you to replace the hi-limit as well. At less than an ohm, I see no reason to bother with it.

Oct 25, 2008 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

No heat


If the dryer runs, but does not heat you may have a blown thermal cut-out and/or heating element. When was the last time you cleaned your dryer and ducting? If it's been a while, you may have an accumualtion of lint in the ducting or inside the dryer causing it to overheat. The thermal cut-out (TCO) is designed to blow in the event of an over temperature condition inside the dryer. This device acts like a fuse and is not resettable. If it trips, it must be replaced. The thermal cut-out (along with the hi-limit thermostat) will be mounted to the heating element housing. The TCO will read a short if good. Double check your heating element as well. The heating element should read about 9 to 13 ohms if good. If you can provide me with your model number (located along the door opening) I can locate part numbers for you and give you an idea how much repair parts may cost. In addition, I can provide you with step-by-step guidance on how to perform the repairs, if necessary. I hope this helps you.

PS If the TCO is bad, it is strongly recommended by the manufacturer that you replace the hi-limit thermostat at the same time. In many cases these two parts come together as a set.

Jan 29, 2008 | Kenmore 659 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore Electric Dryer


If this is a Kenmore, have you checked the thermal cut-out or high-limit thermstat? Does the drum turn when you start the dryer?

If the drum turns, but does not heat, you will need to check the thermal cut-out (located on the heating element housing). The TCO should read a SHORT (0 ohms) or very low resistance. If it is OPEN, replace it along with the high-limit thermostat. In most cases the two components are sold as a set and are recommended to replaced as a set by the manufacturer.

Reason: The TCO is designed to protect the heating element and thermostat in the event of an overtemp condition. If the TCO is bad, there's a likely chance that the thermostat could be damaged.

If the TCO reads good, you may have a thermostat that is failing. The high limit thermostat operates normally in the CLOSED (shorted) position and will OPEN at or around 157 degrees F. It is located on the heating element housing adjacent to the TCO. If the thermostat has failed the dryer will tumble, but will not heat. Follow the same recommendation as for replacement of the TCO. Replace both components as a set.

Now...if the dryer drum does not spin, the likely cause is the thermal FUSE. It will be mounted on the blower housing near the blower fan. It is usually white (plastic) in color on Kenmore models. It should read a SHORT. If it fails the dryer will not spin or heat.

Post back with your comments or questions. I hope I'm leading you in the right direction.

Jan 15, 2008 | LG WD-14124RD Front Load Washer / Dryer

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