Question about Project Audio Players & Recorders

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Dear Sir I have a new Pro-ject 6 PerspeX TT. I have a problem with the seating of the motor in the plinth. When you attach the Sorbothane pad and its metal holder to the bottom of the motor and place it in the plinth the entire unit sits slightly too high. The result of this is that the square-cut drive belt rubs on the pulley flange and the belt vibrates badly and makes a rather loud grating noise. It also gives rise to a serious sound flutter. I have tried to fix this numerous times by putting the pad on and off the base of the motor but cannot solve it. This is all you can do actually. The only thing that makes the belt run true is if I push the power cable to one side out of its channel, which then has the effect of lifting the motor slightly thus curing the problem. The belt then runs true, silent and no flutter. However because after this so-called ?fix? the motor is not sitting absolutely securely and absolutely flat in the plinth. Switching it on and off makes it wobble a bit which is really not satisfactory for a precision instrument. Either the pulley has been assembled slightly too high on its spindle during manufacture or the pad underneath and its holder are not accurately formed. It is a pity there is no height adjustment on this pad and its metal holder to adjust the run of the drive belt. You are stuck with what you get in the box. Considering what an incredible precision set up the arm requires (hours with those cotton gloves, spirit level, Alignit tool and all that) it seems a really cavalier attitude of Project to the motor placing and fixing I thought. Really rough and ready. Not at all a precise design. The height of the pulley is absolutely critical to the true running of the drive belt which is a vital component of course. Anyway I don't think it should remain like this and am not happy about it. Not having the motor sitting dead flat as designed may put a strain on the bearings which may wear too quickly over time. Any ideas? Warranty? Have any of you ever encountered this problem before?

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Offcourse it's warranty , they deliver a defect unit, so don't wait and bring the whole buch to the store, and infact, if you noticed at the beginning when you just had the unit and called them, you have the right for moneyback. They deliver a broken unit. How long do you have it allready with the problems?.

Posted on Oct 22, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Loose / wobbly platter?

This is a common problem. If you have another 1200 turntable, switch out the platters and see if that fixes the problem. Usually, the problem does not carry over.

There is nothing to screw or tighten. You can install a new SPINDLE - and it should fix it. But might not be necessary if you just swap your platters out.

Good luck!


Posted on Apr 21, 2008

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SOURCE: Leveling Turntable

Yes, shims are fine, but just remember, shims are prone to movement. Why don't you bring all the feet to their maximum setting, then adjust from there. Perhaps the table it is sitting on needs the shims?

- Davis

Posted on Jul 02, 2008

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SOURCE: SL-1200 MK2 Tone Arm Oxidized and Height Adjust

EXCUSE ME! PLEASE FORGIVE YOURS TRULY!!. I mis stated something. Vinegar NOT mineral oil to clean the oxidation. You are correct in the type lubrication. A dry-teflon is best in this application. A minor adjustment in the balance of the arm may be needed. Any chemical used on electronic ckts other than the one that replaced the freon type could be harmfull but any lube used directly on the mechnanics is welcome. You may choose a syringe to apply the small amount in exactly the point of need. This is a well known procedure in the medical field on laboratory equipt.

Posted on Sep 18, 2008

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: Optimus lab 1100 Turntable won't turn!

The mechanics in your arm postion is throwing the switch. A mechanical postion switch has sliped out of postion, a arm from the toner arm post has moved to an encorrect postion, or if your turntable has a multi-album play abilty your 'next to play record' post postion sensor switch is out of postion. Last or first is your belt could fool ya. Your belt may have a weak spot on it in turn no friction underload.

Posted on Sep 18, 2008

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SOURCE: Tone arm skipping/not moving on especially at end of record


It sounds like you have a tone arm tracking problem, this may have to be re-aligned.


Posted on Dec 13, 2008

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1 Answer

My pro-ject turntable is playing very very slowly.....I have changed the belt but no it likely to be a motor problem?

I'm unfamiliar with Pro-Ject turntables, but the following genral advice will still apply:-

With the drivebelt disconnected, does the platter rotate freely with little resistance?

If not then the problem is the spindle bearing (may just need cleaning and re-lubricating with light oil). Some turntables allow you to remove the platter and re-lube the spindle, others have a sealed-for-life bearing where the only option is to replace the bearing. If you have the latter type then take the bearing to a specialist bearing supplier as they'll provide an equivalent replacement for far less than an official manufacturer spare. It will likely be exactly the same part without the branded packaging anyway.

If the platter rotates freely and becomes very much more difficult with the drivebelt attached then you have a motor problem. Try a tiny drop of light oil at each of the spindle bearings: if this fixes it then the motor bearings may just have dried out or may be on their way out. If not then look to the motor brushes and either the motor commutator (if the DC motor has an AC supply) or slip rings (if the DC motor has a DC supply). These items wear over time and lubricating them can make things worse as the lube traps dust and bits of debris to become a conductive grinding paste. If you have a commutator then clean it thoroughly with a Q-tip (UK=cotton bud) moistened with a little white spirit or lighter fuel, and then use a cocktail stick to clean out any muck lodged in the gaps in the commutator. The motor brushes which contact the commutator/slip rings are usually made of graphite and on some motor designs they can be removed, inspected and if need be replaced, but on many small motors worn rings/brushes mean that the motor must be replaced as a complete unit.

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I hope that my posting has been of some assistance and ask in return only that you take a moment to rate my answer.

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