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VALOR NG FIREPLACE MDL# 837AN SERIAL# 00351861 WHEN BOTH BURNERS ARE ON THE BACK BURNER ONLY LIGHTS PART WAY. BURNERS WORK WELL INDEPENDENTLY. WHEN THE ACCESS DOOR TO THE CONTROLS IS SNAP SHUT THE FIREPLACE WILL GO OUT. PLEASE ADVISE ON THE POSSIBLE PROBLEM. THANK YOU

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

FreeTech
  • 426 Answers

SOURCE: only one burner of four not working

sounds like a bad switch in the knob, turn on the defective side, turn on the one that works and keep the clicking going then turn on the defective burner while "other" is clicking if this lights then it means you have a bad switch or loose connections

Posted on Jun 05, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Brinkmann BBQ

It sure sounds like it's blocked. Purchase a venturi tube cleaner (about $5) or try removing it and lightly tap on the ground to try and unplug the little holes that have filled with debris. If you have access to some air tools, try blowing it out-similar to an air filter of a car.

Posted on Jun 24, 2008

SOURCE: Burners - Oven not working

thanks reg501...

after inspecting our plug where it connects to the stove, i noticed the neutral was loose. everythings working for now. i am a little worried though, where the black wire connects to the stove, it shows signs of getting hot. im guessing this was where it wasnt properly grounded...

thanks again, the wife is very happy now...

Posted on Sep 14, 2008

  • 124 Answers

SOURCE: natural gas fireplace, pilot lights

thermocouple is bad . replace it.

Posted on Oct 19, 2008

Therinnaiguy
  • 1420 Answers

SOURCE: carrier furnace ,burner not staying on after 4th

Remove them and scrub them with a wire brush.
On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Posted on Jan 10, 2010

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First, have you changed the battery in the ignition system? If you haven't this could be causing your ignition problem. In addition, the Thermocouple may need to be replaced to solve the problem of the burner flames going of on their own. That's assuming the pilot light is also going out when the burners go out. It would also be wise to check the vent pipe to make sure it's not obstructed in any way. As this also, could cause the flames to go out. Because there is a Safety Overload Switch, that automatically shuts the burner off is there is a gas and heat buildup/backup in the firebox.

As far as replacing the Thermocouple is concerned, this unit uses the same type of stand-alone Thermocouple, as the older DESA Vent-free gas log sets and fireplaces used. It's held in place with a saddle strap mounting and is fairly easy to replace.

These fireplaces are made in the UK and therefore, are more complicated to install, diagnose a problem and then solve it, than those made in the U.S.

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