Question about GE Profile JKP56 Electric Double Oven

2 Answers

The lower oven does not function after we executed the self cleaning process. The upper oven is not a problem. The control panel for the lower oven appears to be working but neither heating element (including the broil element) do not even warm up. How does one test the elements to see if they are a problem OR is there another control circuit that could have shut down power to the elements? What else can I check to uncover teh problem?

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  • 4 more comments 
  • zahnsinminn Dec 30, 2010

    Is there any way I can test the latch to see if that is indeed the problem? I am a bit reluctant to purchase a $100 part to see if that's the problem. Also, do I replace the latch on the top or bottom or both? I'm still a bit confused.

  • zahnsinminn Dec 30, 2010

    Thanks for the suggestions. I will try the WD 40 and if that doesn't work, may bypass the latch.

  • zahnsinminn Dec 31, 2010

    Thanks for the info. I jumped the part and was able to get the oven to begin to heat. I have tried unsuccessfully to locate the part on repairclinic.com with no success. I'm not sure what the part number is and have tried different combinations of the numbers on the bad part. My part has several numbers and they are:
    60TX25 L300F
    SWC095
    9924
    330869

    Still need more help.

  • zahnsinminn Jan 04, 2011

    Just to let you know it's fixed. It was easier than you thought since my oven had a reset switch on it and merely needed to be pushed again and all was well. I didn't know that until I went to get a new part and found out, after going to a second part's store, that my part has the reset capability but is no longer made. The replacement part cannot be reset. Lucked out to have an older double oven.



    Thought you would want to know this in case you get called upon again. It took an experienced parts person to identify that I didn't really have any problem anyway.



    Thanks for your help. It got me on the right track.

  • zahnsinminn Jan 04, 2011

    Macmarkus provided great info that saved me a lot of money. He clearly was the only one who understood the problem and offerred appropriate solutions. Saved about $100.

  • Tammy Hanson
    Tammy Hanson Feb 16, 2013

    My very old Thermador double oven quit working and it was to old get the parts to fix it. I talked my husband into buying a used double oven. After install into our cabinet we found the bottom oven not working. I was broken heated and felt guilty for talking him into buying a used one. We did save about $1000 on this unit compared to buying new so if we had to have it repaired that was ok I guess. THEN: I came across your post. Your information along with pic and location info from Mark MacDonald. I fixed the problem myself, in ten minutes and it didn't cost a dime! (mine too had a reset button). This site is now added to my favorites list. Thanks so much - you guys made me a very happy girl!

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  • GE Master
  • 2,605 Answers

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

It sounds like the hi-limit safety thermostat may be tripped due to the self clean, I haven't seen anywhere in the recent dialog where this has been mentioned or that you've checked it though, have you checked ?

Unfortunately it is the non-reset type hi-limit on these ovens,( if the oven is indeed a JKP56 model ) It is shown here and is behind the grill between the two ovens...
The lower oven does not - macmarkus_190.jpg It is available at "repairclinic.com" parts vendor for approx. $30USD. but if you jump it out to test it and then replace it, we can get you back up and cooking.
** Turn off the breaker before attempting any service please...safety first **


Let me know how you make out or if indeed you've already checked the hi-limit thermostat. I'll watch for your reply. Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Posted on Dec 31, 2010

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Dec 31, 2010

    Hello again,



    That's good news you where able to identify and confirm this to be the faulty part, good job.



    As for the part number, i should have included that, sorry. I found it at "searspartsdirect.com" #WB24K5033 and "repairclinic.com" #253097.



    They are one in the same, repairclinic just use their own "item" number, where as sears use the original GE part number.



    Let me know how you make out or if I can assist you in any manner going forward. Good luck.



    Regards,



    Macmarkus :)

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Jan 04, 2011

    Hello,



    Glad to hear you're back in business. It is fortunate your hi-limit is the reset type as the model number indicates it is the one-time hi-limit...likely a substitute automatically placed in the parts system I use.



    In any event you have a working oven, that is the important thing. A tip I suggest to my clients is when doing a self-clean cycle, try and use a 2hr. cycle as opposed to the 3-4hr cycle they sometimes have as a factory default.



    Thanks again for choosing FixYa, and I hope you'll still take a moment to rate the quality of assistance we hopefully provided for you here.



    Regards,



    Macmarkus :)

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  • GE Master
  • 1,711 Answers

From your
description this is a very frequent problem with door lock latch assembly. As
you may realized it is almost impossible to have all main components of the
oven like elements and fun not working all the same time.



So in order
all the above to function the latch assembly should not be in lock position
since their something like a switch that should be close to let the element and
fan to work.



All you
have to do is to replace the door latch.
LATCH OVEN ASM

Part Number: AP4538774
made by GEH



This and all the other parts of your oven can be found in this link and
the same link can help you understand how the latch is.



http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=215463&diagram_id=21142327#d21142327

Posted on Dec 30, 2010

  • espressonist
    espressonist Dec 30, 2010




    You need
    only to deal with the latch of the down oven that has the problem no need to
    bother with the other one since as you mention the above oven work fine.



    Now you can
    check the latch by connecting the two wires of the latch switch together to see
    that the oven will start working normal. You will find four wires on the latch
    two are for the latch coil and two are for the switch. You can also visual check
    why the lock does not close the switch and it might something that might be easily
    fixed by using a lubricant oil like UD40 or similar.



    You can even bypass the lock by keeping the two
    wires connected together always so the oven will work without any lock if you
    prefer

    You need
    only to deal with the latch of the down oven that has the problem no need to
    bother with the other one since as you mention the above oven work fine.



    Now you can
    check the latch by connecting the two wires of the latch switch together to see
    that the oven will start working normal. You will find four wires on the latch
    two are for the latch coil and two are for the switch. You can also visual check
    why the lock does not close the switch and it might something that might be easily
    fixed by using a lubricant oil like UD40 or similar.



    You can even bypass the lock by keeping the two
    wires connected together always so the oven will work without any lock if you
    prefer

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Related Questions:

1 Answer

I used the self-cleaning feature and now my oven will not turn back on.


Hello,
Their is a high limit thermostat that has tripped,on older model and on some newer models it has a red button on it that can be pushed in to reset it.Other times once it goes out it must be replaced.
For the upper oven its behind the control panel,for the lower its behind the grill between upper and lower oven

I hope this helps you to understand why your oven wont heat,
Gene

Aug 05, 2011 | KitchenAid Architect KEBS207S Electric...

1 Answer

Double oven no model number Whirlpool 14 years old Door is locked after self clean and display is blank


Hello,

Your oven has resetable high limit thermostat that tripped off on the self clean cycle,im not sure if you have free standing,or a wall oven if freestanding the t-stat is on back panel if wall oven its behind control panel on upper oven and for lower oven its behind the grill between bottom of upper oven and top of lower oven. In either case it has a small red button that can be pushed in to reset it

Hope this helps and if it does please give me 4 thumbs up

Gene

Jul 28, 2011 | Whirlpool Ovens

1 Answer

Hi lost the manual..need to start self cleaning


Hello,

An electric oven is a great oven choice because of the advanced self-cleaning feature often available on certain models. A self-cleaning oven uses high temperatures to clean crusty baking spills and splatters and free its owner from having to use harsh chemicals to clean his oven. The following 4 steps lay out how a self-cleaning oven works.

Step 1 - Setting the Self Cleaning Mode
Depending on the style and brand of oven you own, you start the self-cleaning cycle by setting the oven's operating dial to "Clean," a function that can be as simple as setting a timer knob or pushing one or two buttons.

Step 2 - Cleaning Cycle
Once you have set the self-cleaning cycle, the oven coils-both lower and upper--will begin to heat. These self-cleaning ovens are protected from high oven temperatures damage by heavy insulation installed in their walls and door during the manufacturing process.

Step 3 - Automatic Door Lock
When the oven reaches a pre-determined temperature, the lock on the oven door engages, preventing anyone from opening the door until the oven temperature has cooled.

Step 4 - Removing Residual Ashes
Once the cleaning process is completed, including cooling, you can then remove the residual ash by wiping the bottom oven surface with a damp cloth or sponge.


Hope this helpout

May 17, 2011 | Ovens

1 Answer

After self cleaning process oven door would not unlock replaced display panel F3 error fan runs constantly lower unit still works upper unit still will not unlock


F3
or
F4
Shorted or open oven temperature sensor
(RTD) Check sensor harness and harness connection
between oven sensor and oven control. Replace oven temperature sensor (RTD) if
wiring is ok.

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1 Answer

What does the sign "control lock" mean?


Here is what the manual for your oven says about control lock.

Let me know if you have questions.

Control Lock
The Control Lock shuts down the control panel pads to prevent
unintended use of the oven(s). The Control Lock will remain set
after a power failure, if set before the power failure. The only time
it is not available is during the Sabbath Mode or Self-Clean cycle.
When the control is locked, only the TIMER SET · START, TIMER
CANCEL, OVEN LIGHT and CANCEL OFF, UPPER OVEN
CANCEL / OFF or LOWER OVEN CANCEL / OFF pads will
function. On double oven models, CLOCK SET · START will also
function.
The Control Lock is preset unlocked, but can be locked.
To Lock/Unlock Control: Press and hold CONTROL LOCK for
about 3 seconds, until “CONTROL LOCK” and a picture of a lock
appear on the display. Repeat to unlock and remove “CONTROL
LOCK” from the display.

May 13, 2010 | KitchenAid SGL OVEN T/C

1 Answer

I need an owner manuel for Caloric Range Model # EST 345 I can'g figure out how to run the self cleaning oven cycle.


you might try the following, although it is the instructions for an old model, it may be relevant;

"The actual self-cleaning process is initiated by a simple 5 step procedure: 1. Set the range clock to time of day. Note: on models not equipped with an automatic oven timer, the self-cleaning cycle is preprogrammed for a 21/2 hour cycle. Use Steps 3, 4 and 5 only. 2.Establish the length of cleaning time by:
A. Setting the start time. Press and turn the start dial of the automatic oven timer clockwise to the desired starting time. B. Set the stop time. Press and turn the stop dial of the automatic oven timer clockwise to the desired stop time. Max time is 3 hours miniumum 1/12 hours. 3. Set the oven selector dial on the control panel to "Clean" 4. Set the temperature control dial to "off". If you temperature control dial has a "Clean" position, then set the dial to "Clean" instead of "Off". 5. Remove oven racks, broiler pan and broiler grid from lower oven. Close and lock the oven door by moving the latch lever as far right as it will go - into the locked position. If the lever is accidently dislodged restore it to the locked position. Otherwise, the self-cleaning process will not take place. Shortly after the cleaning cycle has begun, the oven temperatur reaches a degree in excess of the normal broiling temperature. The red "Clean" light will come on and the clean cycle will start. In a few minutes the door lock lever, which you have placed in the locked position, will automatically be secured to prevent the oven door from beging opened during the cleaning cycle. This latch remains locked until the clean cycle is complete and the oven temperature reduces to normal baking and broiling temperaturs. NOTE: Prior to self cleaning cycle operation, the oven and surface lights must be turned offed. The upper oven can be used."

I found this here; http://www.appliance411.com/archive/21155_caloric_oven_lost_cleaning_manual.shtml

Nov 18, 2009 | Ovens

1 Answer

How to start oven in PROPANE STOVE


Print the following infore for future ref if you wish. How it works is simple tage a look at it in Motion
Component Test Procedure Results
Electronic
range control
F1−1 –Upper Oven >650°F with door unlocked.............................
F1−2 –Lower Oven >650°F with door unlocked.............................
F1−3 –Upper Oven >950°F with door locked.................................
F1−4 –Lower Oven >950°F with door locked.................................
F1−7 –Membrane switch is not responding ...................................
F3−1 –Upper sensor is shorted at (< 100 ω) or
open at (>5 K ω) ...............................................................
F3−2 –Lower sensor is shorted at (< 100 ω) or
open at (>5 K ω) ...............................................................
Check actual upper oven temperature,
if > 650°F check sensor.
Check actual lower oven temperature,
if > 650°F check sensor.
Check actual upper oven temperature,
if > 950°F check sensor.
Check actual lower oven temperature,
if > 950°F check sensor.
Check membrane switch for connection or damage.
Check upper sensor, harness, and connections
Check upper sensor, harness, and connections
Engineering
Test Mode
Press BAKE pad.
Enter 100°F using the number pads.
Immediately push and hold BAKE pad for appropriate oven
approximately 3 seconds.
This mode can also be entered by pressing the hidden pad
for 3 second located to the left of the lower oven light pad.
Used to view the actual oven temperature for both ovens at all
times, even when an oven function is active.
This mode will also display the current fault code for 5
seconds in the time digits.
Fault codes
accessed
through
Engineering
Test Mode
F0−0 –No fault .................................................................
F1−5 –Upper hardware failure within control ....................
F1−6 –Lower hardware failure within control.....................
F1−8 –Shorted key in membrane switch ..........................
F1−9 –Internal communication errors within control .........
F1−A –Upper latch switches ............................................
F1−B –Lower latch switches.............................................
F1−C –Upper door switch.................................................
F1−D –Lower door switch.................................................
F1−E –Sensor input not calibrated ...................................
F1−H –EEPROM error .....................................................
F1−L –Temp in ovens are the same for long period .........
F1−N –Internal voltage on control not working .................
F9−1 –Upper lock switch is not correct.............................
F9−2 –Upper unlock switch is not correct.........................
F9−3 –Control does not see upper door lock....................
F9−4 –Lower lock switch is not correct.............................
F9−5 –Lower unlock switch is not correct.........................
F9−6 – Control does not see lower door lock ...................
EE –Control cannot read E-PROM. Unit will shut down.
Default from factory
Replace control
Replace control
Check membrane connection
Replace control
Check latch wire harness
Check latch wire harness
Check lock wire harness
Check lock wire harness
Verify sensor is operating properly
Replace control
Verify sensor is operating properly
Replace control
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Disconnect power for 60 seconds. If EE reappears, replace ERC
Test Mode This mode must be activated within the first 5 minutes of
power up.
Press BROIL and CANCEL pad for approximately 3 seconds.
If oven temperature is greater than 400°F, the Test Mode
cannot be activated or will abort if active.
Press and hold individual pads for 4 seconds to activate.
Display will have dashes in all segments to indicate the mode is
active.
Upper Bake: Energizes upper bake element
Lower Bake: Energizes lower bake element
Upper Broil: Energizes upper broil element
Convection Bake: Energizes convection fan
Upper Oven Light: Energizes upper oven light
Lower Oven Light: Energizes lower oven light
Upper Clean: Energizes upper motorized door lock
Lower Clean: Energizes lower motorized door lock
Stop Time: Energizes Beeper
Cook Time: Displays error codes
Timer 1: Energizes ROM version
Timer 2: Energizes EEPROM version
Keep Warm: Cooling Fan
Clock: All display segments light
If functions do not perform as specified, replace ERC
Oven
temperature
adjustment
Push BAKE pad.
Enter 550°F using the number pads.
Immediately push and hold BAKE pad for appropriate oven
approximately 3 seconds.
To decrease or increase oven temperature. Push AUTO SET
pad until negative or positive numbers appear. Oven can be
adjusted from -35° to +35° (-37.2° to + 1.6° C) in 5° F (2.7° C).
To avoid over adjusting oven move temperature -5° each time.
Push OVEN CANCEL button.

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2 Answers

How to remove the control panel on Whirlpool double oven Model RBD305PDS14


Remove the doors by turning toward you a little toggle apparatus located on each hinge. Locate a small screw on the lower inside edge of the left and right hand trim and then slide off the trim. Remove the lower trim then raise the upper trip and put the left end of the panel inside the top opening. This allows you access to the control panel. Test both the keypad part #8300440 and the control panel part #830219 to see which one needs to be replaced. Order the replacement part, plug it in, reverse the precess above and it should work like new..

Oct 02, 2008 | Whirlpool RBD305PDS Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

Thermador SC302T clicking noise, locked door after power outage


iodine, open the upper oven, look thru the grill below the control panel on the right side and there is your model number. The issue here is that when the power came back on the oven run thru a test and your lower lock motor has failed. It will need to be replaced. Yes the only way to stop this is to shut off the breaker.

Feb 03, 2008 | Thermador SC302T Electric Double Oven

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The convection fan comes on intermittently, starts smoking then goes off. Temperature on the display doesn't move from 100F (then it did). My wife left the door closed while it was on broil last night (not sure how long), and this morning I woke up to the smell of burnt electrical and something (one of the fans...? not sure as it was far earlier than I usually get up) running that stopped when I opened the oven door and restarted when I closed it (I'm thinking it was probably running all night). While at work, I turned the breaker off, then pulled the oven out this evening. After taking some of the metal plates off, I put the power back on and turned the oven on for a 450F bake. I don't know if the little cooling fan at the top of the unit is supposed to go on when I have the top exposed and getting plenty of air; it wasn't and it also had a faint burnt electrical smell. After disconnecting then plugging the fan power connector to the circuit board the fan ran for 10-15 seconds before it started smoking and quit. I checked voltage across the fan leads and there wasn't any. I shut the oven off, tripped the breaker, and let it cool. I then tried testing the fan motor directly i.e. bypassing the oven and using a regular outlet since the motor is rated for 120V. It ran for ~1 minute, then smoked and quit. The smoke is definitely coming from the fan rather than any adjoining wires. Is this a case of the fan AND the control board going south or one contributing to the other's demise? I should add that the clock display has been dimming for a couple of years. UPDATE (2/20): I tried just baking (as opposed to convection baking) and the bottom element did come on (I'd reported earlier that it hadn't... that was because I was using convection baking and that does only heat around the fan... just my ignorance on that one). However, the temperature readout on the display did not move from 100F though it was clearly hotter than that in the oven. I then stopped the baking mode and started convection baking. This time the temperature gauge immediately went to 141F and kept climbing. Resistance at the (room temp) temperature sensor (and at the end of the wiring harness plugged into the control board was ~1100 ohms at room temp (as its supposed to be).

Feb 19, 2016 | GE Profile JKP56 Electric Double Oven

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