Question about GE Spectra JGBP35 Gas Kitchen Range
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Your problem is not the igniter itself, but the burner switch that controls the igniter. All the igniters get their power from one spark module that is mounted somewhere in back of the oven. That's why you are able to get all the igniters to spark with only one burner control turned on. This is normal. That is also why you are able to light the burner in question buy turning on another burner. The spark is being provided by a switch that is working. To answer your question: the igniter is removable, but I don't think it's necessary. Cleaning them generally doesn't make them work better. I would check the wiring from the spark module to the burner switch and/or replace the switch. I hope this helps.
Posted on Jul 18, 2007
SOURCE: Oven and broiler will not light.
You've probably done this by now since your message is May (makes us a May-December couple??) but wanted to write that the transformer that produces the park for ignition has failed. I don't know how accessible it is in your unit, if you check on Sears website under Parts with your model # in hand, they could well have an illustrated breakdown of your range which would give you an idea of how difficult the replacement might be.
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
SOURCE: natural gas orifice burners
Before you get too involved, check to see if the natural gas orifices are still with the range. Usually, when the conversion is done, the person who converts the range puts the original natural gas orifices into the holder which contained the LP ones, then replaces it. Look for an inch and a half long metal strip holding the four brass orifices held on by one screw very near the range gas regulator. (the regulator is the part the gas line connects to on the range) Also, look for the conversion instructions in the original installation and set up instructions, or attached to a sheet of paper on the back of the range. You will need to change the plunger in the regulator (Unscrew the cap, flip the plunger around, and replace) and turn the orifice spud on the bake and broiler burners three full turns counter-clockwise also. (using a 1/2 inch open end wrench, counting twelve 1/4 turns) Orifices will require a 7mm or 9/32 inch nut driver or socket to change. The orifices are different for the simmer, regular, and high output burners. (have a "I", "II" and "III" marked on them to help identify them, respectively.) The left two burners are both "regular output" burners, and use the same orifices.
Posted on Apr 20, 2009
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