Question about Luhr Jensen Big Chief 9890

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I have experienced deforming of the plastic/rubber outer portion of the LEFT socket of the power cord where it connects to the heating element of my Big Chief smoker. I have two smokers and it has happened in both of them. I also have two friends who each have two BigChief smokers and it has happened to them as well. It's always the LEFT socket that deforms. In each case the smoker is being used in cool or cold (sometimes very cold) temperatures to smoke cheese. Replacement power cords are $20.00 +/- each not including shipping so the immediate cure is expensive enough with no guarantee of a permanent fix. I hope you can help me to solve this problem. Thank you.

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Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

It is not uncommon, for plugs that connect direct to heating elements. The left socket is the high resistance side, and heat is generated, so the socket deforms. The cord is made in china, and they are cheap.

The permanent fix, would be to hard-wire the the heat element wiring to a new style heavy duty cord, rated for 20 amps

I tried to help you. Please help me and Rate/Vote on my response. We take the time to answer your question. take the time to rate us.Thanks and good luck

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Posted on Dec 30, 2010

Testimonial: "I appreciate your effort to help rectify this problem but to hard wire the unit would mean it can't be disassembled for cleaning. Luhr Jensen: HELP"

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1 Answer

Dryer portion on my stackable does not heat up.


Hello there:
please try these solutions and keep me informed on how this is going for you ok
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected. Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable. Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.) Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Jul 14, 2010 | Kenmore 88752 Top Load Stacked Washer /...

1 Answer

DRYER WIILL NOT HEAT


If this is an ELECTRIC dryer, If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, any one of the following could be causing your problem:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out (TCO)
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Improper input line voltage
5. Defective power cord. The following link explains how to troubleshoot and diagnose a no heat problem on an electric dryer:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits are located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand. Just remove the back panel of the dryer for access.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed also have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need.

NOTE: In many cases the problem is NOT the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.

Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information is helpful.

Mar 27, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer won't heat up, runs fine , no heat


If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, you more than likely have a problem in the heating circuits. Any one of the following are the common causes of this problem:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out (TCO)
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Improper input line voltage
5. Defective power cord.

The following link gives some advice on how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits are located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand. Just remove the back panel of the dryer for access.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed also have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need.

NOTE: In many cases the problem is NOT the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.

Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions, please post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER and let me know. I hope you find this information is helpful.

Mar 18, 2010 | Roper Dryers

1 Answer

My friend has dryer #LER4634JQ1,has had problems with power to the home,electician states one side of electric panel not getting current.Dryer has power,tumbles but won't heat,heating element tested OK....


Yes, an electric dryer requires 220VAC in order to heat.

I would recommend you begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). IMPORTANT: If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good at the terminal block with the dryer plugged in, you have an internal electrical problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord. Replacement power cords can be purchased at any hardware store for about $20.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, which is tapped off the input voltage. The heating circuits require the full 220-240VAC in order to work. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will run, but won't heat.

Perform these steps and post back and let me know if you need further assistance. I hope this helps you.

Mar 11, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Kenmore Elite HE3 Electric Dryer tumbles but doesn't heat?


If this is an ELECTRIC dryer, it does not have a spark igniter. Only gas dryers use igniters.

If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, you have a problem in the heating circuits. Any one of the following could be causing your problem:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out (TCO)
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Improper input line voltage
5. Defective power cord.

The following link gives some advice on how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits are located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand. Just remove the back panel of the dryer for access.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed also have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need.

NOTE: In many cases the problem is NOT the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.

Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER and let me know. I hope you find this information is helpful.

Mar 11, 2010 | Dryers

2 Answers

I have a model LER4634PQO electric dryer--it runs but will not heat. Mike


If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare.

NOTE: In many cases the problem is NOT the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem. Read through the information I provided and take resistance checks to be sure.

If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information is helpful.

Feb 07, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Does not heat up


If your dryer IS attempting to heat, but you are experiencing longer dry times and/or poor drying efficiency, the following link can give you some items to check before you assume there is a malfunction with your dryer:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3578821-dryer_takes_too_long_to_dry

The number one cause of dryer heat related problems is poor exhaust ventilation. If not vented properly, a dryer will not dry efficiently, will take longer than required to dry, and will cause the heating circuits to overheat to the point of failure. The dryer will actually seem hotter as the heating circuits begin to overheat. This is also the source of many fire hazards if not resolved. Read through the link provided and review some of the potential causes.

If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare.

NOTE: In many cases the problem is NOT the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem. Read through the information I provided and take resistance checks to be sure.

If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information is helpful.

Feb 03, 2010 | Roper RES7646KQ Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer runs fine just isnt getting hot.


If your dryer IS heating, but you are experiencing longer dry times and/or poor drying efficiency, the following link can give you some items to check before you assume there is a malfunction with your dryer:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3578821-dryer_takes_too_long_to_dry

The number one cause of dryer heat related problems is poor exhaust ventilation. If not vented properly, a dryer will not dry efficiently, will take longer than required to dry, and will cause the heating circuits to overheat to the point of failure. The dryer will actually seem hotter as the heating circuits begin to overheat. This is also the source of many fire hazards if not resolved. Read through the link provided and review some of the potential causes.

If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare.

NOTE: In many cases the problem is NOT the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem. Read through the information I provided and take resistance checks to be sure.

If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information is helpful.

Jan 28, 2010 | Roper REX3614KW Electric Dryer

1 Answer

COOKTOP


its been my experience that the dual burner switch is far more likely the culprit, unless you can physiclaly see the outer ring is broken( visual inspection works wonders. as far as trying to ohm out i generally look at theelemnet itself (4 wires lead to the elemnt you can trace 1 to the outer portion of element, and 1 to the inner portion.WITH POWER OFF Iswithc those 2 wires and the restore power try element ad watch for outer ring to work inner ring no good. now i know its the switch not sending power. reset wires and order new switch

Mar 08, 2008 | Cooktops

2 Answers

Fixed power cord, clock works, doesn't heat


SkyKing, are you handy with a meter? sounds like you are losing a leg of power here. Check for voltage at the terminal block (where the cord hooks up. You should read, 120V from left to center, 120V from right to center and 240V across the two outer terminals. Check this first and post back. Catriver.

Apr 18, 2007 | Jenn-Air SCE30600 Slide-In Electric...

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