Question about Bosch Washing Machines

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Hi there! We have a Bosch Vision 500 front load washer. We purchased it in the US and moved abroad so we have no warranty on it. In our first attempt to use it after replacing a faulty door lock it came with, it did not fill ( but started to spin). When the time to drain came, it showed error 13. The water pressure seems to be low and we wonder if it would cause no filling at all or just slow filling. Any ideas out there? Thanks! We are our wit's end with this washing machine!

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  • 17 more comments 
  • Barrett Palumbo
    Barrett Palumbo Dec 30, 2010

    what voltage and cycles do you use, and did you convert the unit..

  • sgdelima Dec 30, 2010

    Hi, the model is Bosch Vision 500 WFVC544AVC. Our manual says error 13 means pump is blocked. That is not the case however, because the water hasn't even gone inside the machine. What is the pressure switch and where is it located?

  • sgdelima Dec 30, 2010

    Hi, the model is Bosch Vision 500 WFVC544AVC. Our manual says error 13 means pump is blocked. That is not the case however, because the water hasn't even gone inside the machine. What is the pressure switch and where is it located?

  • sgdelima Dec 30, 2010

    Hi Barretdenco
    the machine is 110 w and our current town uses 220 but yes we have had a 110 W outlet put in especially for the washing machine by a certified electrician so that isn't the issue

  • sgdelima Dec 30, 2010

    New info: we only have cold water in our house. The problem appeared while trying to wash with cold water. If we connect our water supply to the hot water inlet ( we think part 407) it works. We don't think it's possible for part 406 to be dirty as it is a brand new washer.
    Not too sure what 436 and 433 have to do with it- aren't those outlet mechanisms? And how do we get to them?

  • sgdelima Dec 30, 2010

    Also, would there be a problem if we just left cold water supply connected to the hot water inlet ( for example, are there certain cycles that don't use hot water and would therefore not be useable?)

  • sgdelima Dec 30, 2010

    OK, but why would the latch and pressure switch only have problems with the cold water? Doesn't this point to a problem exclusively with the inlet valve for the cold water? And if so, what should we do about it?

  • sgdelima Dec 31, 2010

    Hi, Daniel
    we got the cold water inlet valve out. It looks good ( we can't see any dirt or rust). Is there anything we should be looking at or a way to test it? Thanks

  • sgdelima Dec 31, 2010

    So- we have the valve out. How can we check/ test it?

  • sgdelima Dec 31, 2010

    Hi, Dan
    I have no idea what "test the two terminals" means, sorry! What should I use to test the terminals with?

  • sgdelima Dec 31, 2010

    OK- so you mean put ir back inside the machine and test it with a voltimeter, right?

  • sgdelima Dec 31, 2010

    First our inlet valve has 3 wires leading to it, not 2 or 4.
    It has two thingamagigs which we guess are the solenoids.
    Our multimeter does not have a ohms X1 setting. In the ohm settings the options are 200, 2000, 20 K, 200K, 2000k. Please advise what to do.

  • sgdelima Dec 31, 2010

    Hi
    we tried the multimeter in the lowest range of ohms possible ( a little symbol) and got no change in the number- 1

  • sgdelima Dec 31, 2010

    No readings in 20K. We tried all the ohm options and the reading it still at 1 on all of them. : (

  • sgdelima Dec 31, 2010

    by the way, for compariosn's sake we tried to read the hot water valve ( which is working) but sill the multimeter won't budge.,

  • sgdelima Dec 31, 2010

    But the hot water valve is functioning and is also not being read by the multimeter. Doesn't make sense.
    So...is there a repair for the valve ? We can't get spare parts where we live except if we import them and it takes a long time

  • sgdelima Dec 31, 2010

    actually, it just started working. Happy new year.

  • sgdelima Dec 31, 2010

    miraculously. we just put everything back in and closed the machine up and now it works.

  • sgdelima Dec 31, 2010

    So- reporting back. After taking the water inlet valve out and checking it and being led to conclude it needed to be replaced (which would have been a major problem since Bosch won't help us since we moved abroad with the brand new machine), we put everything back together and IT WORKS! Just like that. We have no idea what worked, but it works.

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Hi

The problem seems to be with the water inlet valve or the pressure switch that is bad and causing this issue. However, please post back with the model no so that I can tell you what error code 13 means and what part is causing this issue. Hope this helps...

Daniel

Posted on Dec 30, 2010

  • 8 more comments 
  • Daniel Scott
    Daniel Scott Dec 30, 2010

    Please check this http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PL..." target="_blank" rel="nofollow" >picture, part#406,407 is the valve that you can clean and part#436 is the pressure switch that needs to be checked along with the latch mechanism which is part#433

  • Daniel Scott
    Daniel Scott Dec 30, 2010

    Yes you are right there are certain cycles that use hot water and won't take water when required causing this issue. Part#433 which is the latch send signal to the control that the door is closed and then the water will enter the unit to start the cycle. Part#436 is the pressure switch which controls water pressure inside the unit if this goes bad water wont flow in the unit.

  • Daniel Scott
    Daniel Scott Dec 30, 2010

    Yes that is the reason I told you to check the water inlet valve first.

  • Daniel Scott
    Daniel Scott Dec 31, 2010

    Test its two terminals and tell me the reading that you are getting

  • Daniel Scott
    Daniel Scott Dec 31, 2010

    Sorry....use a voltmeter to test the water inlet valve

  • Daniel Scott
    Daniel Scott Dec 31, 2010

    Yes right....There will be two wires
    connected to the water inlet valve. If your dishwasher's water inlet valve has
    two solenoids, then there will be four wires. Label the wires so that you will
    be able to correctly reconnect them later. The wires are connected using
    slip-on connectors. Grasp the connectors and pull on them firmly in order to
    disconnect the wires from the valve's terminals. Do not pull on the wires
    themselves. You may want to use a pair of needle nosed pliers to help you. Use your multi tester to
    test the valve for continuity. Set the device to the ohms setting x 1. Touch
    each of the meter's probes to a terminal. If you receive a reading of infinity,
    it means the valve's solenoid is faulty and the valve needs to be replaced. If
    your valve has two solenoids (four terminals), test the second pair of
    terminals in the same manner. If either pair of terminals receives a result of
    infinity, replace the water inlet valve.

  • Daniel Scott
    Daniel Scott Dec 31, 2010

    Try the multimeter in 20k

  • Daniel Scott
    Daniel Scott Dec 31, 2010

    The valve is bad and should be replaced

  • Daniel Scott
    Daniel Scott Dec 31, 2010

    Sorry no repair only a replacement

  • Daniel Scott
    Daniel Scott Dec 31, 2010

    LOL....something might have come loose and when you put it back it worked.....Happy New Year :)

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