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Burner wont fire up unless i open the little side inspection door to access the sensor, this possibly lets in air to fan the burner. There are no blockages or any obstructions of air to this. If i leave this door open it works but when i close this it trips out. Would appreciate if you could solve for me. Many Thanks: Bernard Mooney

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This is typically caused by a lack of combustion air. Does this unit have a powered combustion fan motor? If so, check to see if the motor is running. If it is running, then the motor wheel that moves the air may be failed.
If the motor is not running, the motor may have failed, or, it could be a control board failure.
- If it does not have a combustion fan motor, ( or even if it does ) You may have a cracked heat exchanger. A failed heat exhanger, will allow indoor air preasure into the exchanger, causing (flame rollout) that will trip the safety switch.
Try this, it would help me to know what type and model of unit it is.

Posted on Dec 30, 2010

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I have a atwood 8500 furnance, the fan will come on and and a few seconds later the burner will fire off but burner will run for only a few seconds , it will not ignite again unless you turn unit off and...


there is also sometimes a photo sensor in the cabinet that detects the flame as a back up to the thermo couple...if this is bad the circuit board control will shut off the gas valve.

Jan 25, 2015 | Heating & Cooling

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One burner of my four burner grill only lights on one side. I have traded places in the grill with other working burners and they work fine in that spot but the one will still only light on one side unless...


If you remove the burner to clean it, did you also check and clean the venturi valve near the open end of the burner, where it fit's over the burner orifice? If not, the venturi is probably clogged. Spiders love to build nest in them. While you have the burner out, inspect it closely for anything you may have missed when you cleaned it the first time.

Hope this helps you and Happy Grilling!!

Jun 25, 2011 | Cal Flame 4-Burner Drop-In Grill

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We just put a new bottle gas in our heater but the flame is dancing now and not going in to the plates behind. The pin is also getting orange from the heat. Whats wrong.


From what you have described, it sounds like the venturi valve of the burner is dirty and/or clogged. In other words, it's not getting enough air to gas mixture to burn as it should.

Since yours is an Infrared Portable LP Gas Heater, it's not difficult to dismantle the front of the heater's cabinet to remove the ceramic plaques and gain access to the burner & all it's inner workings. Before you even attempt this, TURN THE HEATER OFF AND ALLOW IT TO COMPLETELY COOL.

There should be 6 to 8 sheet metal screws around all sides of the heater cabinet that will need to be removed. After that, carefully remove the ceramic plaques and set them well off to the side. With a vacuum cleaner that has a hose and brush attachment, thoroughly vacuum all of the interior of the heater, as well as the burner(s). Look for the open end of the burner, that has a gas line/tube running into it. That's the Venturi Valve. You should see some small slotted openings (on some models, it looks similar to fan blades). If you have a crevice tool for your vacuum, use that to thoroughly vacuum the Venturi Valve.

While you're cleaning, use a can of compressed air with a straw nozzle (like you clean your computer with) to blow out the pilot opening and the Oxygen Depletion Sensor (ODS). It will be a small hose in the side of the pilot a little over half way down from the pilot tip. Place the straw nozzle just barely into the hole and give it a quick blast of air.

Once you have completed all of the above, reassemble the heater in reverse order of how you took it apart. Make sure the ceramic plaques are positioned and aligned properly and all screws are reinstalled in the heater's cabinet. Light the pilot as you normally do and turn the control valve to the ON Position. Do the burner flames now appear as they should? If so, you solved the problem. Make that heater cleaning, part of your annual routine maintenance on the heater. Usually, in the Fall before you fire it up for the heating season.

Hope this helped you troubleshoot and solve the problem. Please let me know. Thanks.

Jun 15, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

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My Laars LX pool heater would shut off soon after it fires up


This error is Automatic Gas Shutdown. Here is what you can do:

  1. Check for fluctuating pump pressure (air in strainer, pressure guage bounce)
  2. Check all wiring connections
  3. Replace ignitor/flame sensor assembly
Depending on your expertise, it could also be the gas valve or ignition control (aka the IID).

Since the burners do fire briefly, I would suspect the flame sense rod first. Attached is a link to the owners manual in PDF.

Lo Nox heaters can be a little tough so follow the directions exactly.

Jul 24, 2010 | Teledyne Laars Laars Lx Pool Heater /...

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Burner lights 5-10 seconds shuts down. Good air flow. Gas smell at times out vent.


The burner will shut off for various reasons.

First, there is a sensor right at the burner flame. If the sensor does not indicate flame the gas is shut off to avoid filling your house with gas. It is usually a short metal rod. Oftentimes cleaning it will get it working again. Or the signal from the sensor isn't getting back to the controller, so check for loose connections.

This page explains it well.
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/dryer/gdryer/check/flamesensor.php

There are some other sensors that will shut the heat down. A temp sensor where the hot air leaves the dryer drum. This is to keep from overheating the clothes and lighting them on fire. If this sensor is bad, or the wiring to it is not getting that signal back to the controller, the dryer will shut the burner down. Although 10-15 seconds is pretty short, this is a possibility. Try different heat settings to see if you get the same result. If it only happens on one heat setting you most likely have a bad temp sensor.

Visit here for more info.
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/dryer/gdryer/check/thermostat.php

Another possibility is that the gas valve (solenoid) is getting near the end of its life and can't stay open long. This is not likely, but still possible since the burner does light.

http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/dryer/gdryer/check/gascoil.php

Next possibility is that the gas line is partially plugged. When the burner fires the gas pressure drops rapidly. When the burner goes out the gas sneaking past the obstruction raises the pressure back up.

Final possibility is a bad controller.

Jan 19, 2010 | Maytag Neptune MDG5500AW Gas Dryer

1 Answer

RUUD Ultra 90 Plus Modulating up flow furnace UGFD_07EMCK 1.5 years old. Furnace doesn?t function properly from the very first day, often shuts down after initial burners firing. The 1st (right) burner...


Sounds like the cross over between the burners are to tight. I would take a common screwdriver and open the slot just a little. Only other thing I am worried about is the gas pressure on the burner side. Needs to be set as per installation manual.

Jan 05, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

3 Answers

Heater sounds like it will start then shuts off


On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the ignitor. The ignitor will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the ignitor gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the ignitor does not energize (bad control, bad ignitor), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not lite (dirty pilot), the burner does not lite (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Most newer furnaces will have a diagnostic center or control built into the control module. You may be able to view it as it is running thru a small viewing port. Some models will require the removal of an access panel prior to finding it. On the reverse of the access panel, there will be a diagnostic chart that will aide you in understanding any error code recorded (usually a blinking light).

Jan 28, 2009 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

1 Answer

FURNANCE WONT FIRE UP GOODMAN GMNT12-5D


On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the ignitor. The ignitor will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the ignitor gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the ignitor does not energize (bad control, bad ignitor), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not lite (dirty pilot), the burner does not lite (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Most newer furnaces will have a diagnostic center or control built into the control module. You may be able to view it as it is running thru a small viewing port. Some models will require the removal of an access panel prior to finding it. On the reverse of the access panel, there will be a diagnostic chart that will aide you in understanding any error code recorded (usually a blinking light).

Jan 07, 2009 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

1 Answer

Burners go out before the fan starts


that makes no sense? the door on does exactly the same thing as you holding the switch closed and neither has anything to do with the problem you are describing. if door were off nothing would happen. if door was on ,nothing would happen unless the switch was closed. it may be coincidence, but sounds like the unit is not proofing the flame. look for a little needle like sensor that protrudes into the flame path in front of a burner. when the burners light it senses flame and tells gas valve burners lit and its ok to stay on. then heat builds and the fan is briught on. once in a blue moon the overtemp sensor trips open prematurely as soon as the burners start to heat up. it is a little wire in , wire out sensor above the burners that protreudes into the bulkhead above the burners. if it is cold and open its bad. if you jump it and burners light and stay lit and fan comes on its bad. fairly cheap and easy to replace. you may have an old fan limit switch the rotates like a spring to bring the fan on as it heats up, then turns off burner if its gets to hot or is set to low. it also turns fan of as burners cool down.

Dec 05, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Adjusting air flow on gas kitchen stove burners?


Proper air velocity over the burner is critical on a direct fired gas unit. If the air velocity is not within
specifications, the unit will not operate efficiently, can produce excess carbon monoxide (CO) or other gases, and may have sporadic shutdowns. Proper air velocity is determined by measuring the static pressure drop across the burner.
To measure the static pressure drop, the fan should be running and be discharging 70° air. Using an incline manometer or equivalent, insert one sensor into the entering air access opening (plugged test port) and the other on the downstream side, through the view port (see page 12 for locations). The proper static pressure reading should be from .625 in. to .675 in.
If this reading is higher or lower and the air quantity (cfm) delivered to the building is acceptable, then the burner baffles will need to be adjusted (see diagram).
Open the burner access door. Using a wrench loosen the 4 screws to adjust the baffles. To increase the static pressure loss, decrease the opening size and to decrease the loss, increase the opening size. The top and bottom baffles should be of equal distance from the burner. Tighten the baffle fasteners, replace the door, turn unit on, and recheck the loss. This process may need to be repeated
until the proper pressure reading is attained.
This adjustment will change the air quantity delivered by the unit and therefore should be rechecked.

Sep 05, 2008 | Maytag Kitchen Ranges

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