After my fridge freezer , a Whirpool model ARZ957/H/AL,defrosted itself, the freezer was at 2 degrees but the fridge at room temperature, 20 degrees, The compressor is hot and its continuous and loud. Pleasew, hoe do I get at the tehermostat to check it out and if necessary replace it.? And wherev are the vents linking the two compartments that I expected to find and clean out? Thanks.
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Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:
first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.
AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.
u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .
Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?
ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required
Hi Cordelia - One or more component(s) of the defrost circuit has failed. The three main components are the: 1) defrost heater, 2) defrost terminator and 3) defrost timer.
Items 1 & 2 are located on or under the freezer coil itself. Item 3 can be located anywhere - popular spots are behind the toe space bezel and in the temperature control compartment. All of these parts vary in size, shape, and location by manufacturer and model fridge.
The defrost heater is a heating element positioned under or near the freezer coil in such away that the heat will melt frost build up before it can turn into a solid block of ice. It is powered by the timer (two or 3 times a day for 20 or thirty minutes or so) through the defrost terminator.
The defrost terminator is a simple temperature sensor that is often physically clipped to the freezer coil. It opens / closes at a specific temperature - often about 45 - 50 degrees F. If the temperature is below this point, it is cold and closed. When the timer sends power to the defrost element, electricity is passed through the terminator and the element heats up. Power is available for the 20 - 30 minutes determined by the timer. When the time runs out - power is shut off. Likewise, if the temperature reaches 45 - 50 degrees, the terminator senses this and opens - interrupting the electricity to the element.
You'll need to verify that the heating element is not damaged or "blown", that the defrost terminator hasn't become "stuck" in the open position, that the timer still runs and the contacts haven't fused together in the cooling mode.
The last thing to check is the wiring. This is seldom the problem - but can happen. Wires never fail between connections - unless they have been damaged. A failure almost always happens at a connection point - at a connector, terminal, etc. Make sure connections are tight.
Always work on the fridge with it UNPLUGGED! Never use sharp objects to chip ice as you may damage refrigerant lines and allow refrigerant to escape. Refrigerant can cause instant frostbite to skin - and blindness if it sprays into you eyes.
If refrigerator is not cooling properly can be due to a defrost timer, which is causing the fridge to go into defrost cycle. Usually it takes 45-60 minutes for refrigerator to come out of defrost cycle. If the timer goes bad then it will not come out of defrost cycle and can result in this kind of issues. It can also occur due to defrost thermostat, it allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees. This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on. The defrost thermostat is snapped onto the top portion of the evaporator. The thermostat sends temperature information to the processor. The defrost heater must be replaced when replacing the thermostat.
1. Remove the lower fan duct work from the evaporator cover. 2. Remove the 1/4-in. evaporator cover screws and remove the evaporator cover. 3. Disconnect the defrost thermostat wiring connector. 4. Remove the defrost thermostat from the evaporator.
Good day, That is normal if the room or area is too cold. If the room temperature drops below 55 degrees Fahrenheit then that problem will start to show up. All manufacturers state the machine will start to unbalance below that temperature.
Good day, Yes, they are made. The temperature in the fresh compartment will be no issue, since you have control in that compartment. The engineers designed the balance between the two compartments so the freezer would be normal if the following conditions applied. 1. The room temperature is between 70 and 90 degrees. 2. The machine has normal usage. I.E. 8 to 20 door openings of the fresh food door. The freezer would start getting warmer if the room temperature dropped much below 70 degrees. or.. If the machine had extremely light usage with very few door openings, or a combination of both situations described above.
With dual controls, and both set at normal, the above conditions would occur anyway, except you could over ride the normal settings to compensate.
Many people have this setup, and experience little trouble, but without knowing your life style replacing it would be your choice based on the facts given.
Modern fridge/freezers are built to automatically defrost themselves. To do this they require that the room temperature is well above freezing to allow the defrost to take place. If you site the freezer in too cold an environment it is unable to defrost itself and will eventually stop working. It sounds strange but if it is too cold the freezer cannot work. The solution is to buy and fridge/freezer that does not automatically defrost itself if you want it to work in a cold environment.