Question about Whirlpool MH1140XM Microwave Oven

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Whirlpool Timesaver Model RM286PXV3

Microwave stopped working. Checked fuse is Okay (zero), Checked the High Temp. Protector Okay (Zero), but when I chek the MAgnotron Thermal Protector is open. I located a part the no. is PS382362 for $28.14. What I need to know if there is any science to replacing it. I only see one screw and I need some help in finding out if I need to know anything else before I hire a tech to replace it or I can do it myself.

Thank you for you help.

jcalvarez@juno.com

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  • Dadfixer Jul 14, 2008

    Thank you for your help. I replaced the Magnatron T.H. and everything looked okay, so I thought...now when I close the door (with the power on) I hear a humming sound. I finally had to call a tech. and after our troubleshooting we came up with the conclusion that the board is deffective (the sensors check out as being good). Is this correct? if so the board is N.L.A. and can't find it anywhere. Do you know of a pleace that may sell rebuild boards for my microwave model RM286PXV3?

    Thanks......

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  • Whirlpool Master
  • 8,820 Answers

It should be pretty straightforward to replace. You need to be sure the oven is unplugged.

It's easier to remove the wires while it's still screwed onto the oven. There may be locking tabs on the terminals, so don't force them! Pliers will help, but be gentle.

When you gets the wires off, unscrew the old one, put the new one on, and tighten the screws, then reinstall the wires.

Whirlpool Timesaver Model RM286PXV3 - 52e4b7d.jpg

Posted on Jul 13, 2008

  • William Miller
    William Miller Jul 14, 2008

    Ironic, but I just repaired one of these very boards last week. I thought I recognized the model.

    The only sensor in this model is the gas sensor, and if that's bad, it will not make your unit come on when it shouldn't.

    Door switches might possibly be an issue, but hopefully he checked the switches and mounts.

    I'd say you have a shorted relay or a defective component in the relay drive circuit. I'd also replace power supply capacitors due to the age.

    If you'd like me to repair unit, I would need your entire control panel assembly including the frame and keypad (as shown below).

    We also need for you to send our repair form, so please visit our site for full details.

    William E. Miller, AS-EET
    prototech@usa.net
    http://www.microwavedisplay.com



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Samsung timesaver microwave


follow this steps and fix it. God bless you

  1. Check the power diodeThis electronic component is responsible for transmitting current in one direction. If the diode becomes defective it will cause your microwave to not heat. Test the diode and replace it if necessary.
  2. High voltage capacitorResponsible for storing electricity, this part is a key component in any microwave. Remove, discharge, and test the capacitor to determine if it requires replacement.
  3. Damaged magnetronResponsible for generating waves and producing heat. When your microwave is no longer heating properly, replacement will be required.
  4. Thermal CutoffsExamine the thermal cutoffs on both the magnetron and the oven itself. Take off one of the leads and using a volt-ohm meter on RX1, check the terminals. If you get a result other than zero, replace the thermal cutoffs.

Read more: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/microwave-repair-help.html#2#ixzz2YxACIG9d
http://www.appliancepartspros.com

Jul 12, 2013 | Samsung MC5694 Microwave Oven

1 Answer

Defective microwave door switch?


You are correct about the upper switch if normally open resistance infinity, but when switch is depressed resistance should read near 0 ohms, you need to change the door switch. Now the high voltage diode cannot be checked with a digital meter because the bias is to high, chances are it is okay.

May 11, 2012 | GE JVM1850 1000 Watts Microwave Oven

1 Answer

WMH1162 not heating



Sorry to read about your problem, You have a major failure, I suggest you contact a service company. If you feel like making repairs yourself, i will give you some pointers below.

There are other variations depending on whether the cooling fan, oven light, and so forth are located down stream of the fuse.

Some models may have a separate high voltage fuse. If this is blown, there will be no heating but no other symptoms. However, high voltage fuses are somewhat rare on domestic ovens.
A number of failures can result in the fuse NOT blowing but still no heat:

  • Bad connections - these may be almost anywhere in the microwave generator or the primary circuit of the HV transformer. A common location is at the crimp connections to the magnetron filament as they are high current and can overheat and result in no or intermittent contact.
  • Open thermal protector - usually located on magnetron case. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms.
  • Open thermal fuse - some ovens have one of these in the primary circuit. It may be in either connection to the HV transformer or elsewhere. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms.
  • Open HV capacitor - see the section: A shorted HV capacitor would likely immediately blow the fuse.
  • Open HV diode - see the section:
  • Open magnetron filament - This failure may also be due to loose, burnt, or deteriorated press (Fast-on) lugs for the filament connections and not an actual magnetron problem.
  • Open winding in HV transformer.
  • Defective HV relay. A few models use a relay in the actual high voltage circuitry (rather than the primary) to regulate cooking power. This may have dirty or burnt contacts, a defective coil, or bad connections
  • Shorted HV diode -
  • Short or other fault in the magnetron - see the section:
  • Short in certain portions of the HV wiring.
I tried to help you. Please help me and Rate/Vote on my response. We take the time to answer your question. take the time to rate us.Thanks and good luck

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Dec 30, 2010 | Whirlpool Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

I have the model FMAC101D1PS and now it's not heating. I press the minutes to heat, it run but it doesn't heat anyting.


Most likely causes are an open thermal protector or thermal fuse but could also be blown fuse in HV area of microwave (somewhat uncommon in domestic microwaves).
Less likely causes are failure of other parts in the HV area.



If the main power fuse is located in the primary of the high voltage transformer rather then at the line input, the clock and touchpad will work but the fuse will blow upon initiating a cook cycle. Or, if the fuse has already blown there will simply be no heating action once the cook cycle is started. There are other variations depending on whether the cooling fan, oven light, and so forth are located down stream of the fuse.

Some models may have a separate high voltage fuse. If this is blown, there will be no heating but no other symptoms. However, high voltage fuses are somewhat rare on domestic ovens.

A number of failures can result in the fuse NOT blowing but still no heat:

  • Bad connections - these may be almost anywhere in the microwave generator or the primary circuit of the HV transformer. A common location is at the crimp connections to the magnetron filament as they are high current and can overheat and result in no or intermittent contact. See the section: See the section: Testing the magnetron (see repair manual link below).
  • Open thermal protector - usually located on magnetron case. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms. See the section: Testing thermal protectors and thermal fuses (see repair manual link below).
  • Open thermal fuse - some ovens have one of these in the primary circuit. It may be in either connection to the HV transformer or elsewhere. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms.
  • For the various HV parts and how to test them follow this link: Microwave Repair Manual link.

A shorted HV diode, magnetron, or certain parts of the HV wiring would probably result in a loud hum from the HV transformer but will likely not blow the main fuse. (However, the HV fuse - not present on most domestic ovens - might blow.)

Depending on design, a number of other component failures could result in no heat as well including a defective relay or triac, interlock switch(s), and controller.

Oct 21, 2010 | Frigidaire Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Model 721.64282 microwave/convection oven - microwave not heating and making a loud noise. convection oven works


No heat but otherwise normal operationA shorted HV diode, magnetron, or certain parts of the HV wiring would probably result in a loud hum from the HV transformer but will likely not blow the main fuse. (However, the HV fuse - not present on most domestic ovens - might blow.)
If the main power fuse is located in the primary of the high voltage transformer rather then at the line input, the clock and touchpad will work but the fuse will blow upon initiating a cook cycle. Or, if the fuse has already blown there will simply be no heating action once the cook cycle is started. There are other variations depending on whether the cooling fan, oven light, and so forth are located down stream of the fuse.

Some models may have a separate high voltage fuse. If this is blown, there will be no heating but no other symptoms. However, high voltage fuses are somewhat rare on domestic ovens.

A number of failures can result in the fuse NOT blowing but still no heat:


  • Bad connections - these may be almost anywhere in the microwave generator or the primary circuit of the HV transformer. A common location is at the crimp connections to the magnetron filament as they are high current and can overheat and result in no or intermittent contact. See the section: See the section: Testing the magnetron.
  • Open thermal protector - usually located on magnetron case. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms. See the section: Testing thermal protectors and thermal fuses.
  • Open thermal fuse - some ovens have one of these in the primary circuit. It may be in either connection to the HV transformer or elsewhere. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms.
  • Open HV capacitor - see the section: Testing the high voltage capacitor. A shorted HV capacitor would likely immediately blow the fuse.
  • Open HV diode - see the section: Testing the high voltage diode.
  • Open magnetron filament - This failure may also be due to loose, burnt, or deteriorated press (Fast-on) lugs for the filament connections and not an actual magnetron problem. See the section: Testing the magnetron.
  • Open winding in HV transformer. See the section: Testing the high voltage transformer.
  • Defective HV relay. A few models use a relay in the actual high voltage circuitry (rather than the primary) to regulate cooking power. This may have dirty or burnt contacts, a defective coil, or bad connections
  • Shorted HV diode - see the section: Testing the high voltage diode.
  • Short or other fault in the magnetron - see the section: Testing the magnetron.
  • Short in certain portions of the HV wiring. See the section: Testing and repairing the wiring and connections.

Depending on design, a number of other component failures could result in no heat as well including a defective relay or triac, interlock switch(s), and controller.


If you are interested in doing it yourself the following link will help : Microwave Repair Manual

(**All the above references to tests are found here)

Oct 21, 2010 | Kenmore 63663 Microwave Oven

1 Answer

LIGHT AND FAN WORK BUT NO POWER TO MICRO


Any fuse that is black in the middle is not good.
If you have an Ohm or DVM meter you can check to see if it is open.
If it is open it will read infinity ohms, if it is good it will read close to zero Ohms. Zero ohms is when you touch the leads together and see what the meter is reading, it should be close to zero ohms. You can try replacing the fuse and you may be on your way, but, after you replace the fuse you may have it blow again and that is the faulty component...
I have to be honest, if this is an over the range microwave, you may want to invest in a repair, if not, then you may be better served just replacing the unit.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue.
If you need further assistance please comment to this post and I will try to help you further.
Thanks for using FixYa
asnowman

Apr 29, 2010 | Whirlpool MH6141XK Microwave Oven

1 Answer

Installed in 2/29/02, The unit stopped working today. Totally dead. I checked the plug (fine), checked the circuit, fine, and power to house is fine.


2 simple things to check: Inside there is a fuse (15 A) check it. Check that the TCOs (thermal cut outs) are closed ie zero resistance across them.

Oct 28, 2009 | Whirlpool GH7145XF Microwave Oven

2 Answers

Microwave not heating food


check magnetron and related circuit, and control unit and highvoltage section..

Nov 19, 2007 | Microwave Ovens

2 Answers

Whirlpool microwave/oven model RM286PXV3


Just so I understand, you replaced the fuse inside the oven? If so, I would suspect a bad thermostat attached to the magnetron. This device interrupts power when the unit gets too hot. I've included a representative photo. After so many years your magnetron may be bad, too. Once you get the oven working, if it cooks and doesn't trip the thermostat again, it may be okay. PLUS - It looks like this model has manual rotary controls. If so, it's common for those to develop bad contacts after so many years. I would consider that my third suspect. Those controls are called the thermostat (not to be confused with other part by that name that I discussed above) and the selector switch. One could easily be bad. You can check part prices at Sears online at http://www3.sears.com (the "3" is supposed to be there) Some other things that can cause a "dead" condition: - bad connections on the small circuit board where the fuse is mounted (if such a board is present) - bad connections in the wiring Good luck.

Nov 04, 2006 | Whirlpool MH1140XM Microwave Oven

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