Question about Kenwood eXcelon X1200M Car Amp

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Recently i've had my sub cut off after a period of time while in use. i found out that the terminal connection the inside of my speaker box to the outside was faulty so i hardwired my sub to my amp and it worked. but now my sub will only play after i've started my car and if i keep the volume relatively low, or if the sub isn't in heavy use. i've recently ran new rca's to the back of my head unit. My amp has been apart a few times from when the metal clip popped out of the rca terminal because the old rca tip broke off inside and pushed said metal clip out. I don't know if the loss of heat sync paste from taking apart the amp has anything to contribute to the problem or not. also my power wire and ground wire aren't as heavy as they should be and my ground wire is grounded to the battery, i don't know if any of this has potential to be the cause of my problem but maybe it helps.

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Your ground should end no more then 3-4 feet from the amplifier and both your power and ground should be a minimum of 8 gauge and depends on the power consumption of the speakers you are using more power requires a thicker wire..could be from when you took it apart but its hard to say, really depends on what you did while the amp was open...

another issue could simply be that your etup doesnt have the needed power to run the system and you may need to introduce a capacitor or secondary battery, again this is will depend on your power consumption.

Posted on Jan 10, 2011

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1 Answer

Warning levels


Hello
The (+ve) & (--ve) poles of the connection wires have neen reversed is the meaning. Just interchange the wires of each either at speaker box or at the output terminals of the amp. If these connection are reversed, the sound effect will vary in intesity. OK.

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The power light is on but the sub not playing at is also a kicker product. A 12 inch sub all wires are in the right place a audio shop did the work for me. Can you please tell me what is going on.


Is your sub in a box? the power light is on your amp? try to connect a car speaker to the port you have the sub plugged into, if the speaker works its not your speaker terminal on your amp it's the sub. Check the wiring on the connectors of the back of the sub itself and the wire terminals inside the box (if sub in bass box)
Please let me know if this was any help and let me know if it solves your problem

Mar 05, 2011 | Kicker Car Audio & Video

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I have all alpine speakers,deck,amp, and subs. My subs were working for about a year until one time i started my car and they keep cutting in and out .. at times they will work but then they cut off...


Sounds like blown subs, in the process of completely dying out, or a loose wire, possibly inside the box or from the box to the amp. Have your subs tested at a sound shop, or using a multi-meter, check for resistance across the sub terminals. An open line indicates a blown sub.

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I have a rockford fosgate ounch 325.1 (2004). I recently helped my parents move and took the sub and its sealed enclosure out of my 1994 Ford Explorer. The sub and amp worked until the move. After I...


it sounds like you have a short someplace. also, if you have a multimeter, check the voltage coming out of the speaker terminals of the amplifier. if the voltage is higher than 4 or 5 volts, the amp is probably bad.

Jan 10, 2011 | Car Audio & Video

1 Answer

Wondering if non soldered terminals will cause subwoofers to cut in and out...amplifier turns on and stays lit green but subs cut in and out...have had amp and subs switched over from another vehicle in...


You're right; The clip-type or pinch-terminals could have just enough wiggle room to break connection when the box vibrates....causing the In & Out scenario.

You mentioned that the set (amp & subs) were mated in another vehicle, so there's little doubt that the subs are under-rated for the amp, right?
No chance that the sub-level adjustment was cranked up during the move, causing the aging subs to wash out...and you triple-checked the polarities,right?

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NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! Never connect speaker outputs to anything that looks different, like RCA connections. Can you say crispy critter?

Your receiver sounds like it won't send specific Subwoofer of Low Frequency Effects information to the Sub so we're cheating by adding a sub. If you named the model of each we may have a better shot at naming the output you need to use.

I'm curious. How did you have the old passive sub working?

Basically what you may have to do is feed (probable) full range audio to the Sub using an RCA splitter to combine the L and R outputs found, oh, at any Tape Output that you're not using. The Sub will only reproduce what it can. The presence of higher frequencies won't bother it. If it has its own volume control you'll be able to balance its volume with the rest of your speakers.

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Ok my sub woofer isnt working, the front and back speakers are working, the sub used to work then it would cut in and out then i tap the box and it works but no it doesnt work at all, i am not sure if the...


bad connection. try hooking up a different test speaker to your amp. if it works you can trace the short into your sub. if not the terminals in your amp may need to be re-soldered.

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1 Answer

Amp works on other subs, not on mine


Hello adeisenroth,

Sounds like the voice coil(s).

First make sure that the braided wiring going from the sub cone to the voice coil(s) have not come loose. Examine the braided wire all the way from the terminal to the cone. If one or more has come loose, it can sometimes be resoldered. Just be careful with the heat.

If all the wiring is intact, you can check the coils with a multimeter. With the sub disconnected, and the meter set to the lowest resistance scale, test across the speaker terminals. Depending on how the coils are wired you should measeure somewhere between 1 and 4 ohms. If you get "0" or no reading at all, one of the coils is open. If you get "infinity", a coil is shorted. Sometimes only one coil is bad and you can still use the sub, wiring it to the remaining coil only. Once you have determined that one set of coils is either open or short, you can remove the jumper and test each coil individually.

You can test most any speaker voice coil with a small battery. The best to use is the 9V type that has terminals right together. Connect a short piece of speaker wire to the sub terminals, and hold the other end of the "+" wire to the positive battery terminal, then quickly touch and remove the negative battery terminal with the "-" wire. The sub cone should move outward, and you should hear a brief thump. If no cone movement, and no thump, the coil is defective. Do not hold DC to a speaker for any period of time though, just touch and remove. And NEVER use a high-current battery, like a car battery for such a test. If the coil is not already bad, high DC current will damage it.

Either short or open, replacing a voice coil is a job for the Rockford-Fosgate professionals.

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1 Answer

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