Question about Kenmore 24642 Top Load Washer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sounds like your motor coupling is broken. It's not a big thing so don't worry to much. It only costs about 10 dollars and is easy to repair. The motor coupling sits between the motor and the transmission and is what spins the transmission when the motor spins it. It breaks from age or from over loading the machine to many times. To fix, just unplug the washer and tip it back so you can work under it comfortably. Remove the wire harness connected to the motor. Next, there are two clamps holding the motor up. Remove the screws and pop off the clamps with a flat head. Be careful because once you get one clamp off the motor will fall so hold it and don't smash your fingers. The motor coupling will come out with it. Put your new one on, it only goes on one way. Put the motor back and hook it all back up and you will be good to go again. You should be able to get a motor coupling easy as they are pretty common. Just check with your local appliance repair shop. Let me know if you have any other questions and let me know if this was helpful to you. Good luck and I am glad I could help you out.
Posted on Jan 22, 2009
SearsTechTwo had very helpful information, thank you! I did have a broken coupler on my Kenmore 70 Series washing machine and fixed the problem for a total of $18.30. The center hole of the white plastic coupler part that is seated on the motor shaft side had cracked. Fortunately, the replacement part now includes a metal sleeve for that center hole to help prevent cracks in the plastic. Because this was my first appliance repair, I found it easiest to remove the machine to my garage workshop with a hand cart and then lay the hand cart on its side to access the bottom of the machine without working upside down or removing the outer case of the appliance. Removing the water pump clips was easy with a flat screwdriver for leverage. I did not need to disconnect any hoses to slide the pump off the motor shaft and out of the way. It can be supported away from your work area with a large twist tie or string. Removing the motor clips was not hard with a 1/4” socket and a screwdriver. Rather than remove the wire bundles, I used a rag to cushion the wire bundles from chafing on the edges of the frame as I slid the motor out of the way allowing it to gently rest naturally below the work area. Removing the old coupler was easy. The tolerance was not tight at all on the center hole of the white plastic pieces due to years of wear. My mistake was installing the new coupler halves on the transmission shaft and the motor shaft without properly seating them as SearsTechTwo had described. The new part with the metal sleeve in the center hole fits snugly and needs a few taps with a small hammer to be fully seated on the shaft. Approximately 1/4” of movement is needed for the coupler to be properly seated beyond where it would lie with finger pressure alone. Once the coupler is properly seated and the motor and pump are reassembled, the coupler should spin freely when using your finger to turn the black rubber disk that joins the two plastic halves as they turn the motor and transmission. On my first try, I did not properly seat the coupler on the shafts and the coupler did not spin freely. The result was a burning smell because the motor was working too hard to turn the coupler. I repeated my work and seated the coupler halves on each shaft with a hammer. The machine now works well. Here is an alternate source for the Part # 285753A: www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=3963893&pn_=285753A. I noticed that AppliancePartsPros ships directly from UPS’ world headquarters in Louisville. I live there and had the part before lunchtime the very next day. Most places in the USA can be reached from Louisville by UPS ground in 2 days. According to their website, that same part # fits all Whirlpool, Kenmore, Roper and KitchenAid direct drive washers (no belt). Good luck!
Posted on Mar 22, 2009
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