Amp Was Extremely Hot and I Have Now Lost All Sound
The other day I was running some intense bass through my Alpine 600W amp to my 2 10" Slim 1000W Kenwood Excelon subs. From the first day it was installed, I had a problem with the amp going into protection mode due to the gain being turned up too high. I had since turned the gain down about half way with no problems, although one hot day 2 weeks ago, I had the amp shut down due to overheating, turned off the power, turned it back on, and had it working fine again. However a few days ago, as I was driving, I could tell the bass was becoming more distorted, and a funny "aroma" was in the air. I can only describe the smell as being similar to freshly poured cement. Then, the sound disappeared. I went to check my amp, only to discover that it was extremely hot to the touch, but the blue power light was on, revealing that I was getting power to the amp and the fuses were not blown. I allowed the amp to rest for a couple of hours with no luck. It's been three days and I am still not getting any power to the subs. I attempted to readjust the amp's gain again by turning it down with no luck. Any solutions?
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Re: Amp Was Extremely Hot and I Have Now Lost All Sound
Where was the smell coming from? The amp or the sub?
Do you have an ohmmeter to check to see if the sub's voice coils are still intact? Can you try driving the subs with another source to verify they are ok? We need to eliminate the variables here.
If the subs are okay then it's obvious that the problem is in the amp. I'm not sure if there are any protection devices internal to the amp, but I am sure if you remove the cover from the amp and if it was amp that was producing the burnt smell, you'll have no trouble visually identifying where the problem is in the amp. Most likely you'll find a part that is discolored or black & burned.
Usually a smell like this from a solid state device indicates a component has been overheated and if run long enough in this condition will fail.
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The Alpine PDX-1.1000 is a physically small amp to produce the power that it does. The result is that it has less physical area for heat to dissipate. Running at or near it's maximum output into a 2 ohm load, it needs some serious airflow to keep it cooled down. I'd look for some way to get more air to it.
No, thats what you don't what to do. Even if you have 2 matching amps you don't do that. Every amp puts out different, and for 2 subs, you want to play at the the same time. If your only running 2 10's, I personal would just run the alpine (it's a mono amp made especially for subs) thats plenty for what you have. make sure you bridge them to get the full response. And your other amp i would use for your highs or mids, but run it @ stereo , which is 300 w @ 4 ohms. (Note: 600w @ 2ohms would be bridged and would play in Mono)
Building Competition stereo's is a big hobby of mine.
well you would have to look into the ohms of the amp compared to the ohms of the speaker. If the ohms are different you would have to hook them up in a different way. check the RMS on the speaker as well as the amp, this can also be sufficed by wiring it different if ohms match up properly! Hope this helps you out and if this is not the case let me know.
Dual 4 ohm subwoofers can only be wired @ 1 ohm, 4 ohm or 8 ohm.
2 ohm mono load is not possible.
You will need to use (1) subwoofer to get the 1000W out of the amp.
Wire both positives on one sub to + on amplifier and both - on the same sub to - on amplifier to give the amplifier a 2 Ohm load.
Add a second amplifier, or buy an amplifier that is 1 ohm mono stable.
You can wire both to the amplifier at 4 ohms 600W, but they will share the power and only see 300W ea.
comp VR 15s are rated @ 500W RMS 1000Peak.
The lanzar vibe amplifier is 2 x 600W RMS at 4 OHMS 2 x 1200W MAX at 4 OHMS 1 x 2400W MAX at 4 OHMS Bridged 2 x 1000W at 2 OHMS RMS.
Your subs are single 4 ohm subs.
If your subs are wired stereo, they both are seeing 600W. (more than the rated RMS)
Chances are, you have them wired parallel to a 2 ohm mono load - of which that amplifier is not rated. In theory, it will produce about 2000W @ 2 ohm mono for a short period of time.
Your amplifier is too powerful for your subs. Turn down the gain setting to 3/4 or purchase better subs. Also be sur the subs are inthe proper enclosure. It sounds as if they are excurting past their linear x-max and colliding with the rear bump plate. This will cause damage down the road if left as is.
You may have a problem with the power source feeding the amp. You need to check the voltage across the amplifier's B+ and ground terminals when the amp is playing/cutting off. If it's dropping below ~11 volts, you need to determine why it's dropping so low.
These subs are dual voice coil I'm sure...make sure they are putting a 2 ohm load on the amp total, and also set your gain and frequency setting right. Set the frequency around 85 or 90, make sure the lo pass filter is on. Turn the gain ALL the way down and turn your stereo to the point right before your speakers distort....then slowly increase the gain until the subs are playing at full volume. This should not even be close to all the way up, and the subs should sound accurate and bold. Turning them past this point will cause distortion, in which case you should back off the gain a bit. Distortion causes power to cycle through the amp very rapidly and can cause blown subs and blown fuses.
If you do not know how to wire both subs for a combined load of 2 ohms, please let me know what type of subs you have.