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Re: won't cool down
The gases in the system may have totally separated. Try (burping it ) as follows. Witht the refrigerator sitting on its base, roll it on to the door and wait 5 minutes, Then roll it to its top so it is literally upside down, wait 5 minutes. Then roll it to its back and wait 5 minutes. Then restore it to its base and wait 5 minutes. Thi procedure will flush the water from the boiler section through the passages of the system and recombine the gases. Then try it on 120 Volts. It takes about 12 hours for the unit to fully cool down.
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If your Dometic refrigerator is a tri-power model (12V, 120V, lp gas), check all modes. It is not uncommon for these units to fail to cool adequately in 12V mode, as that mode is only for KEEPING things cold while on the road.
If the failure exists only in 120V mode, replace the 120V heating element. If the failure exists only in lp gas mode, replace the burner and make sure that the jet is clean.
If the refrigerator does not get cold in ANY mode, verify that the door seal is making good contact all the way around and, if it is, you'll need to replace the coil assembly. (They are available on eBay and Amazon at a fairly reasonable price.)
Note that there are three fuses. B (12V control) and C (120V Heater) on the control board and a thermofuse L located on the stack.
If L is good and everything else is good there should be 12VDC on J1 and at Fuse B
On the back side of the unit there will be a small thermostat switch mounted on the heat column. It will be round with two wires attached to it. In the center is a reset button. If this button does not restore power then the next step is to replace the wire coming from 12v supply to the thremostat switch. The wire will be red and will have a black sleeve on it. Under the sleeve is a safety diode (to prevent overheating and fire), it will be held in place with three bendable metal fingers. If the diode is bad it will not allow 12v power to pass through to the circuit board. Even though the refrigerator is running on 110v power the circuit board still requires 12v power to operate. The diode is a part of a FREE recall kit offered by Dometic so your local RV repair center should be able to help you out.
Most of these mobile refrigerators can run on gas, 120v or 12v, your gas option is obviously OK, there should be electrical connections on the back of the unit which identify which cable are 12v and 120v.
Again most but not all units were multi option.
You will need to connect these points to the supply. To run this on mains 120v you will need to switch off the gas and 12v, similarly for 12v, no gas or 120v, and for gas no12v or 120v.
If you get the fridge to run on 12v remember that if it is on overnight it can reduce the battery charge.
The best options for these is gas or 120v when you have a mains hook up
replace the bulb holder or receptacle may be the terminal of the bulb cannot continue the flow of the current it has a burn contact or loose contact.or try to dismantle the wiring box maybe ther is a loose connection
I just saw where they have a recall on this model Dometic Refrigerator RM 2652. If you go to the www.Dometic.com and find the recall info you can type your Model and Serial Number into the boxes and see if your model is one of the ones recalled. Don't know if this link will work but try it first and it will bring you straight to that box I am talking about on their website. Its http://220.127.116.11/recall.php, if not go to the one above and find the recall information. Hope this helps.
Hello,Depending on the age of the unit, it could have a compressor going bad
on it, as the compressor gets hot the valves may not be seating
correctly or may be burning out. You may have also lost some refrigerant, but I am going to lean more to a bad compressor. Thanks