Question about Whirlpool MH7140XF Microwave Oven

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Oven was running, suddenly stopped and now is completely dead. Power in plug is live. Fuse appears to be good.

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If your appliance has absolutely no functions at all, remove it from the mains supply, remove the case and see where the mains lead goes in to the appliance and follow the cable until you find the main fuse.
ONLY USE THE SAME TYPE AND RATING OF FUSE TO REPLACE IT.
The usual cause of this fuse failure is the door switches are contaminated or sticking. Check the door switches before putting power back on to the appliance.
Hope this helps.

Posted on Dec 29, 2010

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A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

It may be the fuse, which is usually located behind the grille or on the floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.

At our site, we have a video showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

When checking TCOs or thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.

The TCOs you need to be concerned usually with have all black or white wires only. Please reply with photos of your interior if you have questions.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

If you'd want to scan and e-mail or copy and fax the mini-manual (or at least the "schematic diagram page) to me, I'd be happy to make more precise suggestions.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

It may be the fuse, which is usually located behind the grille or on the floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open oven thermal cutout (TCO) on the top of the oven cavity / body or an open thermal fuse on or above the magnetron.

These should read closed (virtually zero) on a continuity check.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it went dead or when you plugged it in or opened or closed the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.

You can usually find exploded views and order parts by entering your model number here at the Sears parts site but the best place to order Sharp parts is Tritronics.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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1 Answer

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A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

It may be the fuse, which is usually located on the floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

When checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.

There may also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

We're happy to help you and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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1 Answer

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A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

It may be the fuse, which is usually located on the floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

When checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

We have critical safety & disassembly info (including a how-to video) at our site, linked here.

You can probably find exploded views and order parts by entering your model number here at the Sears parts site.

The best place to order Sharp parts is Tritronics.

We're happy to help you and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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1 Answer

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Does the inside light come on when the door is opened?

If not, then I'd say the internal fuse or thermal cutout / thermostat has failed.

A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

When checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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1 Answer

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A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again. If you remove the fuse, then press the meter lead sagainst the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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1 Answer

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Since you've checked the external supply, the most likely causes would be the internal fuse, thermostat or thermal cutout. You can find exploded views and order parts here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383 For safety tips and disassembly tips, you can see my site via my listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

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