I have just bought a small farm with an old milk barn converted to a workshop. In it, there is a Duo-Therm Model #1460-5 propane heater. I need to understand how it is designed to work before I try to light it. A manual would suffice. The previous owners have not left instructions regarding it. Thanks, Terry C.

I used to be able to get it through my supplier but the link is now dead and shows product not available. I am sure you can get this through Hayward direct. The last kit I bought was around $200 (my cost, not retail). As for a used kit, I seriously doubt that is an option.

On the valve that controls the flame is a brass part that mixes the gas with air to make the flame. That part must be replaced with the part in the kit. The hole size is different so you can't skip this. Once it has been changed, then you may have to adhust the metal sleve that lets air in so the flame has a blue flame at the tips...no orange tips in the flame.

How old is the heater?
When was the last time it worked correctly?
Does the pool reach the set point? If not, how close does it get?How long will the heater run (hours)?
What model pump are you using?

not a good move you will void warranty

check on line google make modle serial number btus etc and ask for nat gas converstion kit , age could be the problem here ,or try national energy they are on line or google the makes and ask them direct

i think you shuld replace your temp swich is next to the outlet/inlet piping

ITS NOT EASY. YOU NEED A LONG SET OF ALLENS TO LOOSEN BLOWER WHEELS. THIS IS A  DUEL SHAFT MOTOR , BACK COIL NEEDS TO BE PULLED AWAY FROM MOUNT WITHOUT BENDING COPPER. MOTOR BOLTS 3 OF THEM HAVE TO BE REMOVED AND WHEN BOTH BLOWERS ARE REMOVED AND WIRES REMOVED THEN IT CAN BE REMOVED . THE PROBLEM IS THAT THE NEW MOTOR IF IT IS NOT FROM DUO THERM YOU WILL HAVE TO CUT SHAFT TO RIGHT SIZE AND WIRES MAY NOT BE SAME COLOR. IF IT IS SAME MOTOR FROM DUO THERM YOU CAN CUT WIRES AT OLD MOTOR AND WIRE NUT THEM COLOR BY COLOR.

Carbon monoxide poisoning !! do not use !! Get it checked for clogged intake air, as well as have burner checked and cleaned. Obviously running too rich, and intake air supply is getting cut off somehow.

I am not sure if either of these issues have been solved, but with the AGS light on, you will need to check the flow of water first. If it is below what is needed for the heater, this will light up. If the water flow is fine, then check the water temp on the display panel. If it is readin higher than that of the ACTUAL pool water temp, you need to replace the Thermister.

If the water temp displayed is about that of the pool water, then the Automatic Gas Shutoff will be the next thing to check and replace.

You can tell IF a Sta-Rite heater has been converted by the model number. The Convesion Kit is supposed to come with a sticker stating that the heater has been converted, but there are two options for the kit and the one without the sticker is cheaper.

If you take off the top two halves of the heater, on the Junction Box there should be a Tri-fold card there. Unfold it, if the model number ends with NA it is a Natural Gas Heater, LP would be Propane.

You have to buy a milk bucket from the same man who sold you the cow (in the large barn-like store in the top left of the town). Then, equip yourself with it and stand behind the cow to use it. You'll earn $150 dollars per milking, unless your cow is sick.