Question about Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

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Do you have a color wiring diagram for a Whirlpool Duet GEW9250 heating element

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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aborcass
  • 2651 Answers

SOURCE: How to Side Vent a Duet GEW9250 dryer?

you dont need a kit, get under ther with an elbow and some solid vent tubes, a little foil tape and your in, should be a prefforated knock-out where it will vent through side,

Posted on Feb 22, 2008

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TheMobilian
  • 8220 Answers

SOURCE: the wires on my heating

the 2 wires that go to the element are largest. Does not matter which one goes where. The other 2 wires are smaller and imposible to get on the wrong terminal.

Posted on Dec 31, 2008

  • 93 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool GEW9200LW0 Not heating

Hi
You need to remove the back panel first then with a multi meter the easiest way is to put the meter on continuaty test (beeps when contact is made then with the dryer switched of and unplugged put one probe on the one side of the element and the other on the other side if it beeps then your element should be ok if not one of two things (1) Your element is blown or (2) there should be a fuse around the area of the back support plate it may be a normal round fuse or a ceramic round fuse or what looks like a brown rectangular piece of plastic with a wire out each side test the fuse in the same way as you tested the element if blown replace if not then put in a element.

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: My whirlpool dryer (Duet) will not heat. What

If your dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat


First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare.

If you need further assistance, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Posted on Dec 23, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet Dryer ( gew9200lw1): no heat

If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.

NOTE: In many cases the problem is NOT the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.

Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information is helpful.

Posted on Feb 25, 2010

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Sounds like the heating element may have gone out.

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I would suspect a heating element on this model first. Unplug UNIT remove three screws at bottom of toe kick panel and remove unplug heating element check for continuity at terninals of heating element it will be the first two you will see in front

Hope this fixes your concern

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How do I replace heating element in a whirlpool duet dryer?


The following link explains step-by-step how to replace the heating element on a Whirlpool Duet series dryer:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3677025-elite_duet_dryer_heating_element

This is not a difficult repair, but it can be tedious. Just follow the instructions I provided and let me know if you have any questions. I hope you find this helpful.

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FIRST YOU SHOULD CHECK YOUR BREAKERS MAKE SURE BOTH ARE ON. YOU NEED 110V TO RUN THE MOTOR BUT 220V TO HEAT.IF THAT IS FINE IT MAY BE A SENSOR OR A ELEMENT.

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Remove 1 wire from the element . Your 220 V comes from ...110 motor , 110 control board . Check which wire is not getting 110 V , trace it and see which it comes from . That will tell you which one is defective .

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do you have 240 at the terminal block on the back of the dryer if so check for continuity on the thermostats , thermal fuse and heating element

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If you feel competent enough check the heater element and the thermostats for continuity

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it could be several things but the element could should be the last part i would check first if you are still using fuses change them both if that doesnt work call for service call a good service man stay away from major companies they are expensive i know i worked for most of them

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