Question about Whirlpool RF341BXKW Electric Kitchen Range
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: baking element not working
If you have already replaced the bake element (which would have been MY first logical choice) and it still does not work, the problem is more likely with the Electronic Clock Control. The control has two separate circuits that will select and turn on either the bake of the broil elements. It is usually a defective relay that causes the particular mode of choice to stop working. The part number for the ECC is 1166040 and costs about $128. It's not a cheap fix, but it would cost you much more if you had a service man fix it for you. Unless...of course, you still have a warranty. Most manufacturers cover all parts from defects for the 1st year. Some parts are covered longer than the initial warranty, however. It may be worth you while to double check your purchase date and appliance paperwork. This repair is not difficult and can be accomplished by the average do-it-yourselfer. If you decide you want to repair the appliance on your own, let me know and I can give you step-by-step instructions on how to do it.
PS Double check the wiring from the ECC to the bake element as well. You could have a broken wire causing the same symptoms too. Also, don't be alarmed by the failure of the ECC. Although they are generally reliable for quite a number of years, they have been known to fail during electrical storms and/or power surges. Something else you may consider: check your home owner's insurance policy to see if it covers the loss of appliances in the event of such incidents. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Jan 24, 2008
SOURCE: Oven heat
There is a bottom hidden element that is the main element used for baking and cleaning. If its not heating then the element has gone bad and needs replacing. If you have a volt meter then you can confirm this by checking the voltage between the two terminals sticking out of the rear of the range. There should be 240vac across the two. If you have that then you need a new element if you don't then you need a new control board.
Posted on Nov 03, 2008
In addition to what aborcass stated, I just had to fix the same problem. Remeber to turn off the power before you do this. On my stove the element acess is behind the side panel (right side when facing the stove). You remove two screws on the back and one underneath at the bottom, (you need to pull out the drawer). Once screws are out, slide the side panel forward gently about an inch and it should just drop off.
You should see the wires for the element level with the bottom of the stove. The wires will guide you to the element. And you should see that the element is screwed in with two screws to the stove. This is the tricky bit, to remove the element follow the metal piece holding the element to the right until you see a third screw. Remove this screw and the whole thing will come out. Take off the wires, replace the element on the metal strip, slide the element and metal strip back into the stove (take care to ensure the left side of the metal strip slides into the proper position under the metal clasp. Re-attach the screw, plug the wires onto the element and turn the power back on. You should have heat.
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
Hello & Welcome to FixYa
This indicates a open/shorted oven temperature sensor and to solve this problem the sensor needs replacement. If you wan to be sure before replacing the sensor then you can test it with a voltmeter for around 1100ohms....if it reads more then this then it needs replacement however, if the reading is around or less then 1100ohms then it is the control board that needs replacement. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.
Posted on Jan 11, 2011
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