Question about Clarke Air Tools & Compressors
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The start valve gives your motor a running start before the motor begins to load as the pressure increases from an empty tank. The motor strain is more profound when there is pressure in the tank. If you plug the valve, the motor will instantly encounter a heavy load because it has to force air into a partially filled tank. This extra load without the valve will shorten the life of the capacitors and motor windings. There could be two problems with your unit that can revealed by test. What actually closes the valve is a certain volume of air produced by the compressor. If the compressor is not pumping to full efficiency or there are leaks in the discharge hose the valve will not close. Or the valve is faulty. With an empty tank, plug the valve and run compressor and test airline for leaks with soapy water. If no leaks, empty tank of air and restart compressor and take note of the amount of time it takes to fill the tanks to shut off. If it takes an unusually long time to fill, then the compressor probably has valve problems causing low air volume. If the compressor fills to shut off in a short time frame as compared to a similar model then replace the valve. Leaking valves in the head will also cause the pump and discharge tube to run very hot. Parts are available at www.toolpartsdirect.com Good luck with your repair.
Posted on Apr 01, 2009
SOURCE: APC Solenoid Valve Knocking
The APC valve regulates boost pressure (via the wastegate) to avoid over-pressurising the engine. It ensures that a safe boost pressure isn't exceeded. Don't run with it disconnected or you risk blowing the engine!
Problem areas can include: knock sensor on the engine block (also poor quality fuel, dirty engine causing knock); engine ECU.
You need to provide more information about when this happens:
hard accelerating? (likely poor quality fuel, dirty plugs/engine causing knock) and general driving similar.
idling? possibly a knock sensor or ECU related problem
What rpm? what boost gauge pressure?
as an outside chance, maybe a sticky wastegate
Posted on May 30, 2009
I removed all 3 switches from driver and passenger door, which is really easy with a flat head screw driver. took them completely apart, very carefully, with a small screwdriver out of a christmas cracker. put them back together again and 2 switches started working, so I put 1 in the drivers side and 1 in the passengers side so now my drivers door window opens and I lean over to open the passenger door. cool, no money spent...yet ;o)
Posted on Aug 07, 2009
Your question is a bit unclear, but I assume you are asking how to wire the pressure switch in a piston compressor.
See the diagram, below.
You should have a wire from the L1 (first incoming main voltage) terminal to the pressure switch, and from the other pressure switch terminal back to the starter coil. You will also have a wire from L2 (second main voltage terminal) to the overload, and from the other overload terminal to the other side of the coil. In this arrangement, the motor starter coil must be rated at the SAME VOLTAGE as your incoming power.
This diagram works the same for single phase machines (they just don't have the third wire coming from the supply through the starter and overload to the motor.
If your machine has other safety controls (like a low oil switch), It can be wired in series with either the pressure switch or the overload.
Posted on Nov 06, 2009
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