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Assembly sequence 9, cannot connect starter switch red cable, to voltage regulator black cable by twisting together, they are not compatable. The red cable has a screw fixing attatchment, therefore is not designed to be twisted.

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Troy bilt pony will not start. replaced 20 amp fuse and battery


OK -- Here's what to do:
TROY-BILT PONY LT CRANKING CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING

NOTE 1: The following tests are to be made with the parking brake applied and the PTO disengaged unless otherwise specified.

NOTE 2: These tests need only be made until the cause of the problem is located. The entire process need not be completed if the problem has been resolved.

NOTE 3: Refer to the wiring diagram below for understanding of all tersts.

NOTE 4: Wiring Diagram references to Key switch A1 and L terminals refer to the same terminal.

1. With all circuits connected normally, connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the battery positive terminal. The voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, go to step 2.
b. If YES, go to Step 3.

2. Connect a DC voltemeter directly across the battery. The voltmeter should read at least 12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, charge or replace the battery.
b. If YES, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 2 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 3.
-- battery negative cable condition
-- battery negative cable connections at the battery
-- battery negative cable connections at the tractor frame

3. With all circuits connected normally, connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the key swttch "B" terminal (Circuit #97 - red/white wire). The voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, go to step 4.
b. If YES, go to Step 8.

4. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the starter relay BAT terminal (Circuit #94 - heavy red wire). The voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 4 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 5.
-- battery positive cable condition
-- battery positive cable connections at the battery
-- battery positive cable connection at the starter relay
b. If YES, go to Step 5.

5. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the fuse holder BAT terminal (Circuit #92 - red wire). The voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 5 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 6.
-- Circuit 92 wire condition
-- Circuit 92 wire connection at the starter relay
-- Circuit 92 wire connection at the fuse holder
b. If YES, go to Step 6.

6. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the fuse holder protected circuit terminal (Circuit #97 - red & white wire). The voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 6 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 7.
-- 20A fuse condition
-- fuse holder condition
-- fuse holder wire connections
b. If YES, go to Step 7.

7. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the key switch "B" terminal (Circuit #97 - red & white wire). The voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 7 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 8.
-- Circuit 97 wire condition
-- Circuit 97 connection at fuse holdser
-- Circuit 97 connection at key switch
b. If YES, go to Step 8.

8. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the key switch "S" terminal (Circuit #80 - orange wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 8 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 9.
-- key switch assembly
b. If YES, go to Step 9.

9. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the parking brake switch Circuit #80 terminal (Circuit #80 - orange wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at least +12.6
VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 9 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 10.
-- Circuit 80 wire condition
-- Circuit 80 connection at key switch
-- Circuit 80 connection at parking brake switch
b. If YES, go to Step 10.

10. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the parking brake switch Circuit #70 terminal (Circuit #70 - orange & black wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at
least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 10 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 11.
-- parking brake switch assembly mounting and adjustment
-- parking brake switch assembly condition
b. If YES, go to Step 11.

11. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the PTO switch Circuit #70 terminal (Circuit #70 - orange & black wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at least +12.6
VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 11 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 12.
-- Circuit 70 wire condition
-- Circuit 70 connection at parking brake switch
-- Circuit 70 connection at PTO switch
b. If YES, go to Step 12.

12. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the PTO switch Circuit #60 terminal (Circuit #60 - orange & white wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at least +12.6
VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 12 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 13.
-- PTO switch assembly mounting and adjustment
-- PTO switch assembly condition
b. If YES, go to Step 13.

13. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the starter relay Circuit #60 terminal (Circuit #60 - orange & white wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at least
+12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 11 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 14.
-- Circuit 60 wire condition
-- Circuit 60 connection at PTO switch
-- Circuit 60 connection at starter relay
b. If YES, go to Step 14.

14. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the starter relay MOT terminal (Circuit #93 - heavy red wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, did the relay make a single heavy "click" noise?
1. if YES, replace the starter relay and repeat Step 14 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 15.
2. If NO, connect a DC voltmeter DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the battery negative terminal and the red (POS) lead to the starter relay frame. With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read a maximum of +0.1 VDC.
a. If YES, replace the starter relay and repeat Step 14 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 15.
b. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 14 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 15.
-- starter relay mounting
b. If YES, go to Step 15.

15. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the starter motor BAT terminal (Circuit #93 - heavy red wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 15 test. If YES on retest, but the starter motor does not engage, go to Step 16.
-- Circuit 93 cable condition
-- Circuit 93 cable connection at starter relay
-- Circuit 93 cable connection at starter motor
b. If YES, but the starter motor does not engage, go to Step 16.

16. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the battery negative terminal and the red (POS) lead to the starter motor frame . With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read a maximum of +0.2 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 16 test. If YES on retest, but the starter motor does not engage, go to Step 16b.
-- starter motor mounting to engine
-- engine mounting to tractor frame
b. If YES, but the starter motor does not engage, replace the starter motor.


REFERENCE PART NUMBERS PER WIRING DIAGRAM:

Note that your specific tractor may use differnt part numbers. You can obtain a Parts List specific to your tractor online, at no charge, from Troy-Bilt at www.troybilt.com -- your full model number and serial number are required.

Key Switch 725-04228 (common alternatives are 925-04227B & 925-04659)Parking Brake Switch 725-1657A (common alternative is 725-04363)
PTO Switch 725-1657A (common alternative is 725-04363)
Starter Relay 725-04439

Also note that the starter motor is an engine manufacturer supplied part.



7_20_2012_4_14_09_pm.jpg

Jul 19, 2012 | Troy Garden

Tip

My Car Will Not Start.


Many starter problems are caused by week or discharged batteries, loose and corroded cables. Check the battery and the connections at the battery first when having starter problems.
NOTE: please take all safety measures to prevent any harm to you while doing any of these checks or performing any of the test.
PLEASE NOTE: CHECK TO SEE IF YOU HAVE TO HAVE ANY CODES BEFORE YOU DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY.some cars have anti-theft built into the radios and require a code to re-power the radio after the battery connection is lost.
Check for proper starting voltage:
1.) If you have a volt meter connect a voltmeter to the starter in this manner;Black lead to the starter case; red lead to the [s] terminal, (smaller wire on solenoid), have a helper try to crank the engine over, note voltage reading.
No crank - or voltage less than 12 volts.1.) If the engine does not crank and the voltage is less than 12.0 volts.Check for a problem with the
  • Neutral safety switch
  • Clutch safety switch, (if it has one)
  • Bad ignition switch or bad ground cable from the battery to the chassis/engine.
NOTE: The ground cable needs to be a solid connection to both the engine and the frame or body. Most cars will have a ground connection to the engine and from the engine to the frame or body they will have smaller braided wires.
No crank - and the voltage is more than 12 volts. If the engine does not crank and the voltage is more than 12.0 volts. Using your volt meter, put the red lead on the larger post of the starter (the one with the battery cable) The other black lead on the starter body for a ground connection. Have a helper try and crank the engine, check your voltage meter reading.
If the voltage is less than 12 volts. NEXT: Check the battery voltage at the battery during the Crank cycle.If the battery voltage drops below 9.0. volts Check the battery cable connections be sure they are clean and tight. You may have a bad battery, charge the battery for 30 minutes then recheck.
You can still check your starter problem with out a voltmeter, you can use and old school test light in the same manner as for the voltmeter, you just have to notice if the bulb gets dimmer or not light up.

on Feb 27, 2010 | Chevrolet Impala Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Wiring diagram for voltage regulator: how to wire the 5 cables not in a row? we know the 3 yellow are aligned together under the other 2. where do we plug the red and the black? thanks for the help!


Hi, the yellows all come from the alternator, you can connect these in any order to each other, the red wire from the rectifier can be connected directly to the battery, and the black is the earth wire and can be connected to a good ground.

Aug 19, 2011 | 1984 Suzuki GSX 1100 E

1 Answer

I am replacing a programmable timer switch that controls exterior garage lights. This switch is in the same box as a ac switch that turns on the lights inside the garge. There are 3 rolmex wires inside the...


Project is not clear.
Are you replacing the timer with a switch?
I have complete files on timers, so if you are replacing the old timer with a new timer, then add a comment and say which timer you are installing.
http://waterheatertimer.org/ST01C-program.html

You have 3 cables. Assuming 120Volts.
Each cable has 1 black and 1 white and 1 ground.
White wires are twisted together and pushed to back of box.
Ground wires are twisted together and pushed to back of box.
Black wires are next:

(A) Cable A:
One of the three cables will have a black wire that connects to both the switch and to the timer.
So look for the black wire that connects to both switch and to timer.
This is the hot wire from breaker box. Connect this black wire to both switches including new switch.

(B) Cable B: One cable goes to garage lights. Black wire going to garage lights connects to on-off switch.
So the garage light switch has 2 black wires: 1 black wire from cable A, and 1 black wire from cable B going to light.

(C) Cable C: One cable goes to outdoor lights. Black wire going to outdoor lights connects to new on-off switch.
So the outdoor light switch has 2 black wires: 1 black wire from cable A, and 1 black wire from cable B going to light.

Jun 27, 2011 | Hardware & Accessories

1 Answer

110 line in to light switch. How do you continue 110 line out to other oulets or switches?


Add another line to 120V switch.
To begin, inside your switch box, there must be at least two cables.
Each cable has a black-wire and white-wire and bare ground wire.

If your box has only one cable, then you cannot use that for your junction.

OK, your box has 2 cables.
One cable comes from circuit breaker box. These are called Line wires. There is a Black Hot and White Neutral.
The other cable goes to light. These are called Load wires.

You are going to add a new cable with a black-wire and white-wire

In back of box, the white wires are twisted together and covered with wire nut.
These white wires are called Neutrals.
Add your new white wire to these other white wires.

The switch has 2 black wires. One black wire is the Hot line wire.
Add your new black wire to the switch screw that has the Hot.
Of course the switch has 2 black wires, so how do you know which is the Hot.
Turn light switch off, turn power ON, and test each black wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on the Hot.

Review:
New white wire connects to other white wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut.
New black wire connects to Hot wire.
Ground wires are connected together.

On your new receptacle, the black wire connects to brass screw, and white wire connects to silver screw.
Screws are color-coded to tell electrician how to wire.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html

Mar 08, 2011 | Leviton 5634 Dual 1 Pole Switch Decora...

1 Answer

Adam05@telus.netI have wired the 4-way switch with a 3-way switch at either end of the cct as noted on the instructions but the lights only operate from either if the 3-way switches. once the 4-way switch...


You've got your connections mixed up somehow. It happens. The neutral seems to be OK, otherwise the lights would not work at all.

Here's what you want to double check: At the 3-way switch box that contains the source, the hot (black) wire from the source is connected to the "odd" screw on the 3-way switch. The cable that goes to the next switch (the 4-way) should have a white, black, and red. The black and red connect to the 2 screws of the same color on the 3-way switch. The neutrals, of course are just twisted together with a wire nut.

In the next switch box (the 4-way), and this is where I think you may have made the mistake,
connect a black and red from the _same _cable (pick a set, it doesn't matter which cable as long as both wires are from the same cable.), to the top two screws, again, it doesn't matter which wires are connected to which screw, as long as both wires from the same cable are connected to the top screws. Connect the other black and red from the remaining _cable_ to the two bottom screws, again, it doesn't matter which wire goes to which screw, as long as they are from the _same_ cable_. There should be two white wires in that box also, one from each cable. Just twist the two white wires together with a wire nut.

Of course, at the last switch (3-way) the "odd" screw on the 3-way switch should be connected to the (black) switch leg going to the light and the black and red (that are in the same cable coming from the 4-way switch) are connected to the 2 screws of the same color on the switch. The white wires just twisted together with a wire nut.

Again, take the time to double check your connections. Everyone makes mistakes.

Mar 08, 2011 | Leviton Decora Rocker 4-Way AC Residential...

1 Answer

Hello, My Mazda 6 2005 will not start on its own. It will, however, start with jumper cables. Once its on, it does not charge itself and if we don't rev the engine over 1000 RPMs, it dies. There's...


First make sure all battery connections to the alternator, starter motor/voltage regulator are clean and tight.
Make sure the ground strap is tight. That's a connection that goes from the engine block to the frame of the car.
If they if all connections are good, then you probably have a faulty alternator and or voltage regulator. On newer cars like yours the two are connected to each other and bought together as one assembly.

Dec 26, 2010 | Mazda MAZDA6 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

GE digital timer. Instructions say to: 1) connect Hot/live wire of main to black wire of timer, 2) connect neutral (White) wires together, 3) connect Hot/live wire of load to red from timer. 4) green to...


Find the Hot wire:
Your switch has 2 wires. One of these wires is Hot, and one goes to load. Disconnect wires from switch. Turn on power. Do not stand on wet surface. Test each wire to bare copper wire. When tester lights up, that is Hot wire. The other wire goes to load.

Connect wires:
Hot wire goes to Black timer wire
Wire to load goes to Red timer wire
White wire connects to white wires that are twisted together
Bare copper wire connects to Green wire from timer

How to connect white wire to white wires that are twisted together.
a) Strip white timer wire so you have 1-1/2 " of bare wire. Stranded wire will wrap around other wires easily.
b) Remove wire nut. DO NOT UNTWIST wires.
c) Hold all whites together so bare copper lines up. Wrap stranded copper around the twisted wire.
d) Replace wire nut, or use larger wire nut. Twist real tight. Do not use tape. You can solder the connection.
e) When done, pull on white time wire to make sure it is held tight. Push whites back into box.

Sep 25, 2010 | UPM Programmable Wall Switch Timer

1 Answer

Installing Broan exhaust fan/light/night light model QTR070L. Am connecting with a single switch power source. Fixture has three whites, one blue, one black, one red and the ground (green). In what color...


Hi .. with only bone switch for this combo unit, the connections would be like this .. all ahites together with the romex white , all colors, red, black, blue with the romex black, all greens together IF you had more than one switch , then the red, black, blue would be connected separately to one switch eack and separately to a 4 wire romex from the switch to the combo unit.

Apr 17, 2010 | Broan-NuTone Broan 110 CFM Premium Bath...

1 Answer

I have an outside spot light with a motion detector controlled by an inside switch. I want to change outside fixture & install dimmer switch in place of wall switch. I removed outside fixture. There...


First, let me say that if you're not entirely comfortable doing high voltage electrical work, you might want to call an electrician. It's not impossible for you to get hurt or killed or burn down your house. At least be sure to turn of the circuit breaker while you're working on it.

The blacks and whites twisted together are passing through power to other parts of your premises and are always on, so be sure to keep them twisted together. The red is the one that will take power from your light switch and send it to your light fixture.

At the fixture, connect the white to white and red to black, the same as before. At the light switch, connect the black to one side of the switch and the red to the other. When you turn on the switch, it will permit power from the black to travel down the red to the fixture, and from the fixture, the circuit will be completed through the white.

Good luck!

Sep 12, 2009 | Leviton (102-5G108-RW5)

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