The unit input voltage is 110 volt and was plugged into 220v outlet. . the input winding is now busted. . i was hoping to know the secondary voltage of the transformer. . i was planning to replace the tranformer with 220v input . thanks!

Transformers change the voltage and not the amperage. The input would be 110-120 volts. The output voltage would be stamped on the transformer or the circuit board where the transformer is mounted. It either steps it up or down. Make sure to disconnect it before investigating. Good luck!

probably find that the board is cooked from the over voltage
have it inspected in an electronic appliance repair shop and get a quote but I would expect that the unit is now junk

110 will not damage it, just will not work, if built in power supply should say on the rating plate next to power input the voltage it is able to take, a lot of units are rated 110-240v some will have a small switch to change over from 110 to 240. Other than that, you will need to get a step up unit to supply 240 from 110 just a small transformer unit.

This is NOT a forum for college problem solutions. How would you have a 20 KVA transformer and an Atlas Sound AF140... these are different animals... Autotransformer is a more efficient connection when it is possible... the transformer will step the 220 up to 2200+220 volts ignoring the copper loss voltage. For proper designed transformers the primary and secondary copper losses should be close to equal... but in autotransformer connection the efficiency is improved as the added voltage of the supply going to the high voltage winding power does NOT suffer and add to the current required in the primary of this connection. The purpose of this problem is for you to discover that the efficiency of autoformer connection is higher than of a simple step up connection. Now with this carefully work the problem... The ratio I have all but given you... It is unclear what is considered full load here so I would base it on regular connection at 20 KVA at 2200 volts to calculate what the currents would be primary and secondary.in normal connection... calculate resistance of primary and secondary ASSUMING equal losses primary and secondary. What isn't clear is if the loss figures are for the autoformer connection OR just the specs for normal connection. The power factor kink adds to the misery. Approach this problem by making an equivalent circuit of the transformer showing the primary and secondary resistances... again the question is are the loss figures the specs of the transformer or the actual running values for the system....

This is a wild guess, but I have had a different model, a 110, that had a bad electrolytic power filter cap on the effects board that while a meter showed 5 volts for the effects, what was happening is there was dips in the unregulated voltage that fell below what the regulator needed and the voltage to the DSP fell to the point that the DSP was resetting at twice line frequency. This was ONLY visible using an oscilloscope. ALWAYS verify your power supplies with an oscilloscope to look for ripple and noise. With the processor continually reset, the unit appeared to be inoperative.

the fuse hopefully took the brunt of the higher voltage,, replacing the fuse should do the trick, but yes you need the voltage transformer for sure they sell them pretty cheap here, Just be sure and look for the wattage in each one http://www.dvdoverseas.com/store/index.html?loadfile=catalog6_0.html

Transformers USUALLY don't get burned as they are usually protected by a fuse. This one supposedly uses a 3 amp fuse which should have protected it from getting burned. If you can find a schematic or if you can find the specs on the output amp power supplies we can probably calculate the voltage of secondary. We know only that it is supposedly 120 Watts and uses an 8 ohm speaker. The RMS voltage should be about square-root 120*8 = sqrt 960 = 31V*1.4 = approx 44 volts peak... so you will need to get about +/-45 volts out of the supply for headroom... which will need approximately 34 volts AC given diode drop and droop of filter caps. These are really rough educated calculations from the tiny bit of info we have.
Finding a transformer to replace this matching these requirements will be near impossible without getting device from the original manufacturer OR having your rewound.
I would first verify the transformer is bad (only plausible cause is somebody over-fused it or a winding shorted)... Remove all the secondary loads. Put a 3 amp fuse in AND put a 60 Watt light bulb in series with teh power cord to act as a limiting device to test the transformer... Note that transformers DO have a bit of odor as they are usually impregnated with a varnish...

I don't understand why you are plugging this into a 110 volt regulator.. If by chance you are trying to run this from 220 volt power, you DO NOT use a regulator or a converter intended to run hair driers and appliances. You need to use a step-down transformer from 220 to 110 or 240 to 120.
The V\Amp2 is a switching regulator and it will NOT like to be run from another switching regulator such as found in those cheap appliance type convertors.

Here is the type you need: http://www.world-import.com/tc-100a.htm

The schematics don't show this, however reverse engineering this there are two windings... one is for the phantom power of 48 VDC... this winding needs to provide about 55 to 60 volts DC to the 48 volt regulator. EXPECT around 40 to 50 volts AC on this winding to the full wave bridge of D1,2,3,8.

The +/- 16 volt power regulated by LM317 and LM337 regulators will likely require about 20 volts DC into the regulators. It will be less than 25 volts because there is a 25 volt cap filtering.

Given a 20 volt DC from the diodes D5,6 and diodes D4,7 the transformer will be around 15 VAC either side of the centertap.

A minimum would be 12.5 VAC and say 18 VAC either side of center.

You should see near pure DC across C1 and C2 with only a little ripple of 2 volts MAX. The ripple should be 120 Hz. An oscilloscope is your friend in this area !!!

The schematics do not show the actual voltage.

From the design, the phantom power secpndary should be around 35 to 45 volts AC.

The 16 volt supplies would require a secondary winding that will be around 26 to 32 volts center tapped.

Transformers are quite reliable and unless a voltage is missing, the transformer is likely OK.

The most suspect items are the electrolytic filter caps if the voltage is not the design 16 plus and minus values.