Question about Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
sounds like you have a broken motor coupling while your down to the pump check for something jamming the pump here is the procedure First unplug the washer and turn off the water. If you have a shop vac take the drain hose out of the drain,and through the drain hose vacuum the water out of your washer. If you don't have a shop vac go to the auto parts store and buy a pair of radiator hose clamps . Then facing the washer locate the two screws. They will either be in the front or rear of the control panel and back them out far as you can. Once you have done that pull the control panel slightly forward, and tilt it back on the hinges. Now unplug the lid switch wire but don't forget to plug it back when your done. Next locate at the rear of the washer body the two gold clips then push forward, and take careful note of how they fit. Then pop them out with a screw driver tilt the washer body forward at 45 degree angel and walk forward with the body, and set it down. Now you will see the white pump and motor assembly. You should see two clips holding the pump to the motor pop them off, and pull the pump off the motor shaft. Now if you fell the need to remove the pump use the radiator hose clamp. take them and clamp the hose coming from the tub but its not necessary for the repair. Next disconnect the wiring harness from the motor (note the position of the harness for reassembly). Remove the two 5/16 inch screws from the motor clamps and pop the clamps off. Once that is complete, remove the motor put the new coupling on the motor and transmission shaft. I use a socket and a hammer
Posted on Jan 20, 2008
Hello Friend, I think your machine will work properly if you add a water line splitter. You would connect to the single cold water tap and on the other end you would have two water hoses . Connect one hose to the cold water inlet of your washer and then connect the other hose to the hot water inlet. You can get these at Home Depot. Happy to help, Tim.
Posted on Jun 29, 2009
First clean around the rubber with some mould and mildew cleaner for bathrooms - available from most supermarkets.
This is a natural accumulation of waste detergent, fabric softener, fibres and dirt build up that is being attacked by bacteria and eventually decomposes into a sludge / goo and then eventually starts smelling bad as well.
To keep the machine clean of waste build up and to keep any bad odours away:
1. Remove all items from the washer.
2. Open the dispenser drawer and 2/3 cup (160 mL) of liquid chlorine bleach to the bleach compartment. DO NOT use more than 2/3 cup (160mL) of bleach per cycle as this will lead to product damage.
3. Close the washer door and dispenser drawer.
4. Select the Clean Washer cycle or a full wash cotton 104 F wash (40 C). DO NOT use any higher temperature as this will cause unnecessary fumes
5. Press Start and allow cycle to complete.
6. After the cycle is complete, leave the door open slightly to allow ventilation and drying of the washer interior.
7. Repeat the cleaning procedure monthly
Posted on Oct 02, 2009
what has happened is that the coupler has not been fully seated on the gearbox shaft, the motor shaft, or both. you should use a socket and hammer to firmly seat the plastic coupling on each shaft. If the coupling is not properly seated, the washer will work, you will get rotation, but there will be constant back pressure on the motor shaft, pushing it against the rear bearing race and the pump at the rear, the added friction causes heat buildup in the motor and sometimes overtemp switch operation. Just solved this tricky problem myself. another clue that the coupler isn't fully flush and seated is the last motor retention strap is very difficult to get on, due to the 1/8-1/4 inch extra length.
Posted on Apr 13, 2010
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