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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I think someone failed to put oil in the fuel.
Determine if the warranty is active first. Most warranties are effective for 1 to 5 years. If yes return it to where it was purchased or find an authorized repair facility. A written diagnosis by a good independent saw shop ($10-20) might be a good idea at this point. It is difficult to argue repair charges with an authorized repair facility without some documentation in your favor.
1. Remove the starter housing. Does the starter operate smoothly? If yes, reinstall the cover and continue with 2, if no repair starter.
2. Is the saw equipped with a decompression valve? Yes continue, no proceed with 3.
· Leave the ignition off, set the valve and pull the starter.
· Pull gently to release the valve. Is there a difference in the effort required? If yes continue with 3, if no repair or replace the decompression valve.
3. Was this saw perhaps operated without oil mixed with the fuel?
· Remove the spark plug wire and plug.
· Remove the muffler, hold a light at the plug hole and inspect the cylinder through the exhaust port. Is it smooth and shiny or does it appear speckled with dull gray spots or smears?
· Pull the starter slowly, inspect the piston as it rises and falls. Is it a dull gray without scratches and gouges?
· Hold the light at the exhaust port and inspect the cylinder, above the exhaust port, through the spark plug hole. Is it shiny and smooth or speckled with gray spots or smears?
Any spots or smears on the cylinder or deep scratches and gouges in the piston indicate the saw was operated in a lean condition. Repair of this on a home owner quality saw often exceeds replacement cost. A repair estimate by the independent saw shop should be considered.
4. The final likely possibility is the saw has jumped timing. This problem or any not discussed is usually beyond the ability of the operator to repair. Please take it to a good local saw seller/mechanic for a written diagnosis before authorizing any repair. HTH
Posted on Oct 10, 2009
I believe your carburetor needs to be rebuilt or replaced. The carb has thin rubber diaphragms that meter in the fuel to combustion chamber. If the diaphragms get hard (from gas sitting in carburetor for extended time or from hot weather) they won't allow enough fuel in to keep up with the demand. if you need parts email email@example.com.
Posted on Feb 12, 2010
SOURCE: Ryobi 2 cycle 31 cc
The "grinding-type" noise is disturbing. This could indicate that a piston ring has broken loose and is scoring the cylinder wall and would likely be a significant or terminal problem. I will assume this is NOT your situation. Well done on your description. Follow this:
1. Best to determine if you have spark to the spark plug by removing the spark plug, plug it into the plug line and ground it the best you can to a metal surface on the engine. Pull sharply in a dim light and insure you have a spark. [If yes: Go on / if no: replace the spark plug and retry. If yes, replace spark plug and retry your efforts. If no, your machine will need a professional, on-site review).
2. Carburetor repair kits are inexpensive and are DIY for many. Diaphragms over time become in-flexible with modern fuels that were not well drained from the machine out of season and may not be pulling the fuel into the carburetor and into the machine. This may be your case.
3. Exhaust or mufflers can become clogged with carbon buildups at the screen or within the muffler itself when running lower quality 2-stroke oils or too low of a ratio to fuel. You can often pick-clear the muffler or replace it.
These are the most common issues encountered...other than, switching the machine to the ON position - good luck!
Posted on Sep 25, 2010
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