Question about Master Heaters B200BT

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My master heater will not ignite. i have replaced all air filters i have changed the back cover, it was cracked, i replaced the rotor and blades in the air pump and set the air at 6.4 pounds like the book said. i changed the fuel filter and fuel line and air line. and i also changed the nozzle. The fuel lookes like it is blowing in properly what in the world can i do next

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The first thing to check would be the ignitor. If it is not working, then check the connections between it and the ignition control assembly. If the connections are fine, check to see if there is any voltage being sent to the ignitor. If there is then replace the ignitor, if not, then replace the ignition control assembly.

Posted on Dec 29, 2010


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Runs with cover off but reset switch kicks off when cover is installed

It may be over heating check vent ports verify no obstructions reduicing air flow.

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I have 2 new Master Heaters, model MH135KTFA. Both had the air pump rotor shatter before the first tank of fuel was through. Replaced rotors, checked clearances, and they both failed again, Any idea w

This is a difficult question, if the rotor and blades are clean, not contaminated with anything, it seems to point in the direction of perhaps the parts expanding with excess heat. Is the motor running normally, is it overheating?? Is the area where it is being used particularly hot? Have you used it when paint spraying, sucking in paint,causing the rotor to stick. Is there any free movement on the motor shaft? There must be a reason but this is one of those faults which is not clear cut. Sorry I can't be more help.

Dec 04, 2014 | Master Heaters Heating & Cooling

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Adjust reddy heater pump pressure it will not pump passed 2half psi i need it to go to 4half psi

To adjust the pump pressure on this type of heater, turn the threaded adjuster clockwise to increase the air pressure, but if the adjustment makes no difference, there maybe a loss of air pressure caused by a crack in the plastic filter end cover, the rubber seal at the end of the nozzle may be broken, gone hard, cracked or missing, there could be a crack in the burner head (where the nozzle screws in), leaking air supply pipe between the compressor and the burner head, the rotor and/or blades may be worn or damaged, or if contaminated with dirt,paint spray or oil, one or more blades may be stuck in the rotor If contaminated they will need to be replaced, but if doing so, remember to reset the clearance between the top of the rotor and the pump body, your manual will give you the correct clearance.

Jan 15, 2014 | Master Heaters Heating & Cooling

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Heater blows smoke out front, wont ignite...please help!

Two things cause it ,No fire at Spark plug or low air pressure

Jan 22, 2011 | Reddy Kerosene Heater with Thermostat:...

1 Answer

Will not ignite, has spark, fuel filter clean, unable to adjust the air pressure more than 4 lbs. Should be 6.5 lbs. any suggestions?

Have you check the air filter? Before you check that, check the filter cover on the back of the fan motor. Look for cracks in the cover. Make a soap solution and spray on the cover then turn the heater on. If there are any cracks you will see bubbles there. If this is the case, you will need a new filter cover. If you don't see any leaks then check the input and output air filters. If all of this is OK then remove both halves of the filter cover from the motor so you can see the air compressor rotor. Tilt the motor toward the fan while doing this so that the fins don't fall out of the rotor. Make sure fins all are free to move. There will be 4 of them. If you need a filter cover contact me at

Jan 11, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Where are the filters on a Handy master forced air heater- our smells very bad

Pretty much every kerosene heater I've seen has the filters in the same place. You have to take the cover off, then locate the pump at the back of the motor. Take 2 or 4 screws out of the pump to remove the pump cover, and you'll see the filters in there.

There are some kind of generic directions here:

I'm sure they apply to your heater too.

Be careful putting it back together, it's reeeeally easy to crack the plastic pump by overtightening the screws, and it will never work right again if you do.

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I have changed the ignitor, the air and fuel filters, put in fresh fuel, had the photocell and the control board checked. The heater will go through the cycles, ignitor ignites , sprays fuel, fan blows...

Have you checked the air pressure it should be around 6lbs. to do this is in the back on the filter cover remove plug that is on the left side insert a pressure guage turn on heater and look at guage you can adjust air pressure by turning the slotted screw that is to the right of the guage. If you cant get 6lbs of pressure then check the rotor assy. and check to see if you have any cracks any where on the filter cover.

Mar 21, 2010 | Desa International Reddy Heater 200,000...

1 Answer

Got a 15000 btu that the igniter lites but no fuel seems to get through,checked hoses thier clear any ideas thanks joe

Check the rotor (black circle w/ 4 blades inside) for damage or wear. Clean or replace filters. Also clean your nozzel. The manufacturer has a website that offers technical support manuals... . I hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Reddy Heater runs but will not ignite with bonnet attached.

First, let me say that the general principal of fuel delivery ***to the spark plug*** depends on several things.
  1. Proper air pressure at the nozzle (provided by the rotor/motor)
  2. Proper “fuel pattern” at the nozzle (provided by the rotor/motor/nozzle)
  3. Proper amount of ***air & fuel*** at the nozzle (provided by the rotor/motor/nozzle)
  4. Proper ***air flow (cfm) through the combustion chamber (provided by the fan blade/motor)
  5. Proper rpm’s of the motor, which affects all of the above.

On your heater the first step is to set the air pressure to specs. Instructions are on the website. This pressure setting directly affects fuel delivery & fuel atomization

This nozzle rule will only apply if everything is correct as far as fuel delivery applies. The pump pressure must be correct- not almost correct. Set the pressure with a low-pressure gauge that registers12-15 psi max. A gauge with a higher scale just will not read close enough to satisfy the system. If the pressure is not correct, the above rule will not apply. Instructions for setting the pressure can be viewed at

  • Next, if the fan is OK (correct & intact) look at the NOZZLE. DESA recommends annual replacement of the nozzle, which is a wear item. Naturally, annual usage varies, so, wear will depend on annual usage. A worn nozzle produces a cone shaped SPRAY rather than a cone shaped FOG. A spray drowns the spark, where a fog gets ignited, provided it contacts the spark. ALSO, the pattern from a worn nozzle can completely miss the spark (combustion??? Hardly!). When the top is lifted the change in airflow allows a false correction in the combustion chamber, allowing combustion, but when the top is replaced the flame is extinguished. A restricted nozzle or a restricted fuel filter will also distort the fuel pattern and create the same symptom. Also, like the fan blade, make sure that the correct nozzle is installed. Nozzles get swapped, too.

Dec 12, 2008 | Reddy Heating & Cooling

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