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I have a Sandyford 'Clasic' stove which is used for heating and hot water as well as a cooking and oven facility. I have a serious blockage somewhere but my service engineer cannot find how to access the stove to remove and clean the baffle plates and the manual does not show any details or instructions. The house is full of fumes which makes it impossible to live there till the problem is sorted.

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: RE: f5 fault code; kdrp407hss

Solution!!! The hinges that Kitchen Aid uses are the problem. If the door is opened quickly & bottoms out, the steel in the hinge bends a little. So when you go to close the door it won't close all the way.... which causes problems with the latch , latch switch, oven cleaning, etc.

After taking apart the door several times I realized the hinge can be "fixed" without even removing the door. Follow the directions in the user manual for door removal... after inserting the little metal hinge stops (a drill bit or nail will work) Close the oven door till the stops won't allow it to close any further.....then gently but firmly, push forward. This will bend the hinge back to original shape. Remove the pins...Voila!!!

I wish kitchenaid used hardened steel or a thicker hinge....then this wouldn't happen.

Posted on Apr 16, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Whirlpool oven

When I had a similar problem, the door wouldn't unlock even after unplugging, waiting 30 minutes, and plugging the oven back in. I finally had to manually unlock the oven by turning the lock latch motor myself.

Here's a good page that describes what the lock latch motor looks like and where it's located. Of course, there is 220V current running around inside there, so please unplug before removing the back access cover and put it back on before plugging the oven back in.

My symptoms:

  • Oven failed to complete auto-clean cycle.
  • Oven started beeping; control panel showed FSE 1
  • About a minute after plugging in, oven started beeping and displaying FSE 1 again
Once I unlocked the door manually and plugged back in, the oven started behaving normally.

Posted on Nov 27, 2008

SOURCE: model # GRCL3700ZWW-3 Self cleaning 30" convection stove

the oxygen on the burners was close, that will give you the soot or black smoke and also will give you a much bigger flame.

Posted on Dec 09, 2008

  • 125 Answers

SOURCE: Ovens won't work.. pilot safeties keep dying..

Hi, just wanted to ask, are you sure the safety valves are bad? seems strange that 2 would go bad like that. I have seen thermocouples ( $7 to $12 ) improperly installed,routed, not an OEM part,dirty pilots, affect them alot more often than a bad safety ($150 to $250). There is no baffle plate behind the safety, however, if mounted properly, it should be well out of any heat range that would be causing any problems. Are you sure it isn't "front venting" ? meaning the exhaust, or part of it, has to escape out of the front of the unit, causing it to overheat? this can be caused by a few things, something blocking,covering,in the flue. Your gas pressure too high, or no regulator at all, sooting, clogged orfice causing gas to burn in the burner, alignment of orfice to burner, etc.. Hope all that helps, let us know :)

Posted on Dec 31, 2008

  • 12 Answers

SOURCE: amps needed to run a central air unit

Central air requires a 2 pole 30 amp breaker or fuse. You may be able to get by without it but 200 amp service is recommended.

Posted on Jan 31, 2009

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1 Answer

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sounds like the debris from previous cooking is burning. I would suggest cleaning it first. If it's not happening when one or the other is on it might be because what ever is in there is burning at a higher temp. or two it could be that the element is getting too hot and is burning the metal itself. How old is the oven, what kind and cooker? do you mean the stove part? if it's the stove part there might be a leak from the top into the stove -older stoves - the back left burner also got heat from the oven. when cooking you could but a pot or pan on it and not have to turn it on.

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hey man don;t worry i have too much solution if i explain u every thing then you confused so i explain one and if u want another then e-mail me on mango4529@rediffmail.com so listen carefully

Step 1: Turn off the power supply, both gas and electric, to the range. Then remove the burner.

Step 2: Soak the burner in a solution of mild household detergent and water. Clean it with a soft cloth.

Step 3: Clear the gas ports with a pin or needle, rinse the burner, and let it dry. Caution: Do not use a toothpick or matchstick to clean the gas ports. If the tip of the wood gets stuck in the burner ports, it could cause a serious blockage.

Step 4: When the burner is completely dry, replace it, and turn on the power and the gas supply.

An oven that won't heat can occur for a variety of reasons.


and if not then open this link http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-repair-an-oven.htm

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You will need:- Large cooking pot- Grinder- Tongs- Hot pads or oven mitts (mitts are recommended)- CautionPut the grinder into a large cooking pot. Fill the pot with water until the grinder is completely submerged. Make sure that the plastic parts of the grinder do not touch the bottom or sides of the pot. On the stove-top bring the water in the pot to a boil. Once the water is boiling turn off the heat. The grinder is now very hot and full of hot water so be careful not to burn yourself. Using tongs remove the grinder from the water and hold it upside down to drain most of the trapped water back into the pot. Now turn the grinder upright again to trap any remaining hot water. Using your hot pads or oven mitts grasp the glass part of the grinder in one hand and the plastic part with the other hand and pry them apart. Let both parts of the grinder dry completely then refill it and snap the plastic top back on. These make great grinders for other spices as well such as coriander. Enjoy!

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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sounds like a bad bake ignitor(uneven heat,long cook times, long preheat times, perhaps even gas smell while cooking)as far as the heat from under the clock assy thats the normal vent( nedds to release heat somewhere, not a problem

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When using the oven or especialy the broiler the outside of the stove (the part where the control panel is), right above the burner gets extremey hot so hot if you would touch it you would get a severe...


There is a vent pipe for the oven in the back usually just under the left rear burner, it is normal too get hot air there, if your drip pans are all solid you might want too change too pans that have holes in the center it should allow the top too breath a little better.

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