Hi,
This is highly suggestive of power board failure. If there is any power surge, try to plug in the TV directly to the socket. Use any other socket to see, whether there is an issue with the socket or TV. If the problem persists, disconnect the power supply for few minutes, say 15 minutes and then turn it ON. If the problem still persists, then it is an internal failure and needs repair.
This is most likely neither mainboard or inverter board problem or any other problem.This is a common problem and most of the times power outages would result in blowing caps or IC's on the power board.Be advised if you have electronics repair experience and would be able to keep precautions, then attempt to repair this unless you should take to the shop ( that would save trip charges that most of the techs take ). If you have experience and wanted to fix it yourself, revert and i would be able to provide few pointers. If you need to replace power board, then you could buy it yourself and then provide the same to the shop as most of the shops do earn a handsome margin on parts. Usually shop shops are preferred, as they could repair the board unless big service centers usually replace the board.
Let me know,if needed further assistance.
Hope i helped you.
Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!
You can test the 2 zener diodes on the input directly from the wall outlet power cord.First unplug the TV.Set a multimeter/ohmeter to a high ohm setting.It should read a fairly high resistance one way,then switching the probes,it should read infinity the other way.If you do not have knowledge of the meter,the circuit boards need to be exactly the same.Turn it on and observe the lightes diodes for what they do,perhaps take a video of it.I just found out that my digital camera takes video so you can use that if available.Then switch the boards and do the same.Compare the 2 videos and look for a difference.All of this MAY find something wrong with those boards,however a lightning strike is capable of blowing many components.If it were me,I would buy a new one if you have the money to do it.Lightning strike is not warrantied and even if you tried to,they would know it was hit by lightning.The surge protectors sold at most stores for about $5 should not even be able to be classified as that.They are basically an extension cord with a switch,nothing more.A good surge supressor will have a monetary guarantee.August 2009 a lightning strike fried my hard drive which was hooked up to a $5 one.Now I have a Belkin.They start out at about $20 but they guarantee up to $50,000 worth of equipment plugged into it,with no receipt needed.When I was researching it,I called them to find out what was necessary for replacement.They also have different variations up to 12 outlets for $300,000.Recently I found out that Belkin was made in the Phillipines so I am currently searching for an American made one to recommend.I live in the lightning capital of the USA and have had no problems since purchasing the new one.If you have any questions or need more help,just comment here and I will get an autolink to your post and reply ASAP.I really encourage responses so I can follow up properly as I know where you stand and asking someone else restarts all the explaining because we cannot see other 'Expert's' responses.Good luck,Greg
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I forgot to add the fact that you could end up spending more money than a new one just trying to fix it and not accomplish it instead of buying a new one.Repair centers normally have a minimum 20% price parts markup,Ordering part after part from the manufacturer would result in lots of S
There should be 2 on one board which are the correct ones to pass one half of the wave. 1 for the positive half,1 for the negative.They are already naturally isolated so they do not need to be removed.With a power cord disconnected from the wall,there is no circuitry on that side,but there is circuitry on the other side which really is irrelevant.Having nothing on one side isolates it without the need to disconnect anything.Greg
Having circuitry on both sides will give a continuity reading both ways.
With transformers BEFORE the power input,the diodes do need to have 1 end detached to isolate them.You may be reading some feedback from the transformers,maybe not.I would have to see it but it does seem that they are indeed good.Like I said,you should have fairly high resistance reading one way,and infinity while switching probes with power off as you seem to know.Greg
gmccarthy 86 hot mail no spaces.I''ll tell later.
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I found 5 zener diodes in the area of the main power coming in. I out of the five is reading correctly. The four that are not reading right have continuity both ways. I believe I need to take them out of the circuit to test them correctly. What do you think?
the circuit has two little transformers and then two diodes comming off each side of the last transformer. The diodes on the end of the transformer totaling 4 are opposite of each other on each leg. They all test good.
If you would like to see some pictures of what I have I would be glad email them to you. Just let me know an email to send them to.
I gave you a reply but you said nothing back. Would you like a few pics of the circuit board?
I purchased a used power board from shopjimmy.com and installed it with no luck on the power up. When you push the power button the red standby light goes out and then the green power light will blink about 5 or 6 times and then the standby light will light back up. Should I go ahead and get the inverter board and try that?
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