Question about Heating & Cooling
This can be a result of several things. The most common problem is the photo sensor. If there is a flame, and the photo sensor can't detect it - the furnace will shut down. If the furnace has run dirty and sooty - there's probably black soot covering the sensor, blocking the light of the flame. Remove, wipe the lens, and reassemble. Try for ignition again. Keep in mind, after three unsuccessful starts, the primary control will shut down in lock out mode. This is to prevent an additional start as the chamber is probably soaked with heating oil. It should be cleaned completely before attempting ignition again.
The filter may be sufficiently blocked to prevent fuel to flow at a rate the burner needs. Replacing it may be required. If not a dirty filter, lines may be clogged by bacteria in the oil that has clogged them. You might need to have the lines blown back to the tank with a compressed air tool designed specifically for this purpose. Air in the fuel line can cause the flame to go out, and once out it will not restart without the spark. This can be caused by the constant vibration of the burner. A loose coupling between the blower and oil pump can cause the flame to go out, as could a faulty oil pump. Too little combustion air can cause soot - too much is almost as bad.
The real problem is lack of professional maintenance. An oil burner needs to be tuned, not just cleaned. Proper air / fuel mixtures, nozzles replaced when worn, heat damaged parts replaced, clean heat exchangers, stack temperatures, draft, etc. must all be "tweaked." for optimum performance. A properly tuned traditional burner can be 86% efficient - newer styles well over 90%. But they won't stay that way without annual tuning. With the cost of heating oil, why settle for less than optimum efficiency?
Posted on Dec 28, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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