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Power went out and combustion fan wont stop running after power back on and controls wont work to reset stove

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Try unplugging the unit for one min. plug back in and hopefully this will reset it all for you. best of luck. have a good day.

Posted on Dec 28, 2010

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Electronic control panel went blank and oven is beeping


The first thing I would do, because it is an "electronic" control panel is to unplug your stove, wait about 30 seconds, then plug it back in. Your Control panel may just need a reset and reboot.
If it is difficult to get to your plug-in, then go to your household breaker-panel box, and flip the switch for your stove to the off position for at least 30 seconds, then switch back to on. ...That's the same as uplugging and plugging back in at the wall.

Hope this helped hun ;-)

Oct 03, 2015 | Ovens

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I have a woodmaster 5500. The water temp is set at 180 for the high and 160 to turn on the fan control. Now my stove is running up to 212 on aveage before it turns the damper fan off????


Sounds like the differential control (combustion air fan thermostat) that cycles the combustion air fan is stuck closed and the safety circuit opens at 212 degrees to shut off the combustion air fan due to overtemp conditions as the two are probably wired in series.

Mar 10, 2015 | WoodMaster 5500 Super Duty Wood Furnace

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Can i hook up a thermostat to my hot blast wood/coal stove to control the heat in my home


Yes, you most certainly can. It depends on how handy you are and to what extent you are willing to go to make this happen. A lot will depend on how comfortable you are with electrical wiring and understanding HVAC controls and their function.

First though, this is the typical way a wood fired forced air furnace is designed to operate. There is a control transformer and relay to control either a combustion air fan (that you do not have) OR a motorized damper for combustion air that you also do not have. The relay closes on a call for heat from the thermostat and opens the damper from its minimum position to allow combustion air into the firebox. As long as there is solid fuels (wood) in the heat chamber, the fresh supply of combustion air will allow the fire to burn or begin to burn very quickly.

As the temperature in the wood furnace plenum increases, the automatic fan control will start the fan and it will run as long as the bonnet temperature is higher than the fan'on' setpoint on the fan control... Now the house warms up and the thermostat satisfies which allows the combustion air damper to spring back to the minimum position, causing the hot fire to die down due to lack of combustion air.

The now smoldering fire will not generate enough heat to keep the fan running too long, so the automatic fan control shuts the fan off until the house cools approximately 2 degrees below thermostat setpoint. The thermostat calls for heat and opens the damper and on goes the cycle....

An important item to remember is that on the automatic fan control, there is a 'limit switch' function. The motorized combustion air damper or the combustion air fan must be wired through the limit switch in case the bonnet temperature exceeds 200 degrees F. This function will then allow the damper to go to the minimum position or the combustion air fan to go off, causing the fire to cool down due to lack of adequate combustion air.

You don't want the thermostat controlling the circulating fan directly, because of two things: 1). If the fire is out, there is no heat to circulate but the thermostat wouldn't know that and it would start and run the fan continuously until a fire is built. and ....
2). You would still be running up and down the stairs monitoring the fires burn rate by opening and closing the lower door manually.

ALL the components you need are readily available from WW Grainger....basically : a fan/limit control
a thermostat
a 110v x 24v 40 va control transformer
a 24v spdt relay
20 ga. two conductor thermostat wire
24v actuator and linkages to mount to the existing combustion air damper. A bit of creativity is required here. I would not recommend retro-fitting a combustion air fan.
14-2 wg romex for wiring the fan control

Again, it depends to what extent you are willing to go to achieve the end result. Will it be exactly like a new system?? No, but it will operate a lot better than that which you describe.

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1 Answer

Stovetop & Oven not heating but clock, lights, & vent fan are working


It sounds like you are getting only one side of the power to your stove. the lights will work but no heat. your power breaker has two sides for an electric stove. It may be one side isn't reset properly. make sure that you snap the breaker completely off and then completely back on. if that doesn't work perhaps an electrician is in order or one side of your power cord has burned off at the terminal block. I have had this happen.

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1 Answer

Help- when heater gets to room temp. the circulating fan stops, but fire remains in combustion chamber and the blower motor or exhaust fan continues to run for hours. Toyostive laser 56MH thanks Jim...


Sir,

If there was a flame in the burner and no circulating fan running the stove would over heat in less than 5 minutes. It would show an EE 6 message. Are you sure there is a flame in the pot? The stove does have a safety feature that allows the combustion fan and circulating fan to run continuously in certain cases. This is a rather extreme case. In any event the circulating fan would be running at the same time the combustion fan was on. To get out of that mode turn the stove off and on again. Now you should be able to restart normally. Keep us posted,

Thanks,

Tom

Oct 21, 2010 | Rinnai Toyostove Direct Vent Heater:...

1 Answer

Honda EU30001 generator causes erratic pellet stove operation.


Ok Motors and the like generally DO NOT really go all that well from a generator, what load does the Stove use?, You must add up the cumlitive "Wattages" of ALL things connected, see your generator is about 3000 Watts, 3KW, How much "headroom" is there between the two? Whats supplied versus whats being used? Purely inductive loads, like Motors etc, are less responsive than electronic loads. I suspect that your generator is NOT providing enough current to the Stove, especially when "Other" things are connected. also. Look, if the, any, generator is 3000 Watts really you should only load it up to a couple of KW's, 2.5KW being about maximum. To do what you are doing would require, IMHO, at least, 5KW, to get the "Headroom" of current drawn over current able to be delivered by the generator. Also inductive loads loose heaps of power and actually cause a higher draw. So that your answer, you must use it well, inside it's rating, not right up to the limit.

Feb 26, 2010 | Honda 6370C - Parallel Power Kit For ...

1 Answer

Combustion fan isn't running


Ther is a guy names Murphy that it resposible for that. Go back through the steps you used to change the auger motor and see if maybe there was a wire left out or if the combustion motor is also out. What caused the outage? If a voltage spike, it could have taken them both out. The only other thing I can think of is a main switch somewhere. Good luck...Lee

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Stove is tripping circuit breaker Two burners stopped working properly (only get slightly warm). Switched the coils to the other side and the other side is still working. Looked underneath and saw that...


if it is an old stove i would say have it serviced/checked over. if it is a newer stove i am guessing the circuit breaker predates it and is rated for the old stove therefore you will need to have a larger circuit breaker installed (by a licenced electrician)

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The buzzing is possibly your exhaust/combustion blower. This blower is the fan sound you hear as the stove starts up. If you ARE hearing a NORMAL fan sound, then the buzzing could be the auger motor. Do you have a Foxfire with an igniter? This tells me the series of model you have and what control system it uses.

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