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We had an old 1970s fan heater in the ceiling of the kitchen that was attached to a light switch to turn on/off. We want to attach a light fixture to the ceiling where the heater was and use the same switch. I have allready attached it a troubleshot the problem, but for some reason the light wont turn on.

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Sounds like we need to do some tracing of history over they years:

1.) How long has the heater NOT been used? (Has it been removed?)

2.) Since a heater draws considerable current-- It likely was on a separate circuit.
Could that circuit have been re-wired to some other load in the house?
Or could that circuit have tripped?- or blown a fuse?

3.) Has the switched remained connected to this circuit all this time?
Is the switch still turning on and off the light? (or did I just mis-understand that statement?)

Give us more information, so we can help you further.

Mack B

Posted on Dec 28, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I am trying to install a ceiling fan and from the ceiling I have a copper white and black wire. Now from the fan itself there is a black blue and white wire. Not sure where to connect the copper wire.


Good question, proper wiring is a crucial virtue that needs to be one hundred percent accurate.

Three wires showing from the ceiling lamp fixture harness, positive, negative, and ground.

The negative wire is the white wire,
The Hot wire (positive) is the wire of brighter color than known negative,
220V AC (alternating current) home wiring to(" duplex outlet switch, GFI switch, single/dual pole light switch, lamp fixtures,") the Hot wire or lead, is normally Black, the lighter color, or White is neutral or neggative,
Neutral wire (completes circuit) allows current flow to continue through to other parts of house, Alternating current.

The Ground wire is usually wrapped in green color, or unmarked copper.

The copper wire from the ceiling will need to be grounded to the metal bracket on the new light fixture, a gold or silver screw, sometimes tagged with green, is the proper grounding location, Any place on Metal not attached to ceiling bracket, Ground should be attached to metal on fan,

White wire from Fan is neutral, Negative.
Black wire from Fan is Hot Wire, Positive,
If Blue wire from Fan is Not Manufacture spliced, Meaning no Copper is exposed, Wire is not used, Blue wire is NOT ground,
If Fan has a light, Voltage from Hot Black wire will supply both light and fan functions,

Safety First.
flip off breaker switch to the room fan is being installed.

Doubble Check
Black^Black wire connection is secure.

White^White neutral wire connection is secure.

Ground is fastened securely to metal or wrapped under a screw.

Using splice caps is recomended, The plastic shell encloses the wire connection ensuring No stray copper is exposed, limits possibility of cross wiring.

Google the brand of fan being installed, and Check wire color code, and wiring diagram, Info good to have, and checking twice will only guarantee Lamp Fixture Install Well Done.

(Blue wire may be there for installing multiple ceiling fixtures in a loop circuit, so all controlled by same light switch.)


Enjoy Your New Fan,

Jos
Thoughts&Comments, encouraged jtobias1020@gmail.com

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1 Answer

Electrical/wiring for a pendant fixture


white - nuetral

black - zap the junk out of you positive

if you can test continuity then test for source power, check both black wires and the red. the white wire better be neutral



set your volt ohm meter to 200 VAC if you have a cheap dial one or if you have a nice auto range one, set it to AC volts and test. red to the three wires, black lead on white...

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The wiring on most paddle / ceiling fans id such:

White = Fan and Light neutral or "common"
Black = Fan line voltage or "hot"
Blue = Light line voltage or "hot"
Green = safety ground

If you are replacing an existing light fixture - be sure to replace the ceiling box with one designed for use with a fan - as per electrical code. If the existing box had only 2 wires (or 3 counting the ground) that connected to the old light fixture and it was controlled from a wall switch, the wiring would be fixture white to ceiling white, fixture black and fixture blue to ceiling black (or red) and fixture green to ceiling bare ground or connected to the metal box. This would power both the fan and light whenever the wall switch was on and the pull chains for each were also on. This is also the preferred wiring for replacement of a pull chain type light fixture (no wall switch present).

If there are other wires in the box that previously were not connected to the old light fixture, using a meter or tester - determine if there is constant power between the ceiling white wire and any of the these other wires (test with the wall switch on and off to be sure). If you do have constant power available, you might consider using the wall switch to control only the light, and using the pull chain to operate the fan (or vice-versa). Simply connect the black (for fan) or the blue (for light) to the "constant power on" wire and that part of the fixture will work by pull chain only - regardless of the wall switch position. If the fan can be shut off by the wall switch, it is very important that the wall switch remain a toggle (or on / off switch), do NOT replace with a dimmer type switch.

If you'd prefer to operate the fan and light completely independently of each other - you can purchase a 3rd party fan & light remote control device for between $30 - $50.

I hope this helps and good luck! Please rate my reply. Thanks!

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