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On a Halstead Ace I recently had a new diaphragm valve fitted to the domestic hot water, which stopped working even though the central heating was ok. Also replaced the pressure relief valve (leaking) and pumped out the expansion vessel to reduce excessive pressure. Boiler worked fine for about an hour then switched off completely. Had the PCB checked at CET and they provided a reconditioned and tested one as a replacement as there were so many faults on mine. DHW now working but CH not unless the thermistor is disconnected for a moment. Suspect it might be this but get the same resistance off both in the system The auto air vent is leaking a little. Am getting the right redings off the clock but no voltage across the pump. Trying to sort this for my 86 year old mother in law as cannot get outside help at this time. My engineer is at a loss. Any ideas? (sorry about the detail-hopefully not becoming a nerd!) Robin

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: intertherm heat pump

It sounds like you have a packaged unit for modular or manufactured housing. If this is the case I have noticed that they have a outdoor thermostat wired in series that does not allow the heat strips to come on unless it is satisfied at around 55 degrees. Remember this is inside the unit so it could be much colder outside. If this is not the case you may have a defrost problem, either in the defrost board or defrost sensor.

Posted on Dec 01, 2007

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SOURCE: gravity feed boiler/ american standard model#g27dpgc

your make up water pressure is greater than the safety relief pressure. The safety should be 30psi lift. the makup usually goes through a regulator called an automatic makeup valve. these valves operate infrequently on a closed system and get rusty. They stick. If yours is stuck open, then your makeup water pressure which is probably greater than 30psi is overpressuring your boiler.

Posted on Sep 30, 2008

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SOURCE: bosch greenstar 30 CDi - no central heating or hot water!

it sounds like the system was not cleaned properly when the new boiler was fitted. all new boilers need to have the pipework flushed to remove any debris scale sludge and flux from the system. this is now usually done by a power flush which is basically a big pump mounted on a big bucket and it washes the dirt out of the pipework and collects in the bucket. if this is not done the dirt will block up the small passages in the heat exchanger. i suggest the system is cleaned flush and the heat exchanger changed to help protect the boiler a filter should be fitted (for example a magna clean) if the company who installed the boiler is corgi registered then they are liable for the damages. call corgi for advice.

Posted on Mar 26, 2009

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SOURCE: I have a 6 year

Firstly your system needs a power flush to get rid of the grot, then it needs a good inhibitor to slow up the reappearance of the sludge.

Changing the boiler won't help. Any boiler will get clogged up but the halstead DHW heat exchanger is particualrly prone to getting gummed up. You can clean this out and refit without having to buy a new one. - but without a power flush it will happen again.

Posted on Apr 16, 2009

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SOURCE: Central air/heat pump not putting out cold air

I have some things for you to check. If you look at the outside unit the lines going into the house. Are they frozen? Have you had any yard work done, the reason I ask is they could have accidentally cut or pulled out the thermostat wires to the ac unit. Also, inside check for the same thing, frozen lines. Also, you may want to check the drain coming from the inside unit, it may be clogged.

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

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1 Answer

How do I fix central heating


The first thing you need to substantiate is the fact that there is enough water in the system. It will be a closed loop system requiring approximately 10 psi/ floor. (Only a rule of thumb). Usually when one protion of the system works and the other does not, it is an issue of water quantity available to circulate through the combination of loops. If you have to add water, you will probably have to purge air from the highest points in the system. Even if there is an "Airtrol" fitted in the bottom of the expansion tank, bleeding the high points will eliminate air quicker.

The hot water portion of the loop should only be going through a heat exchanger that transfers the loop temp to the domestic water circuit and the three way valve is probably a 'mixing valve' utilized to maintain a certain loop temperature on the primary loop.

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When hot tap is turned on there is a banking noise from boiler.Have had new pump fitted and have domestic hot water and central heating.Noise continues, but not as bad as before.When heating switches on...


try by draining tank. it may have sediment build up in it. heres how. go to www.ehow.com/how_5544402_drain-hot-water-tank.html this site will explain it better. have a good day! Sediment can drift into recirculation lines, jam open check valves, and cause the recirc pump to stick until it burns out. it causes noise, sometimes enough noise to annoy, or even frighten, people if the tank is inside a dwelling. The noise is caused by small amounts of water under the sediment layer turning to steam bubbles, which then collapse violently.

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ENGLAND, UK. DOMESTIC HOUSE CENTRAL HEATING. Baxi Bermuda


try bleeding the radiators in the order of downstairs first and then the upstairs and try to bleed them in the order they fill, trapped air can take a while to escape, a good sign on a radiator is the bottoms being warm where the tops( where the air is trapped) stays cooler, a sure sign to which radiator needs bleedin, hope this helps, colin

Apr 02, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Halstead ace high boiler making a whining noise when central heating is turned on also pressure reduces after about 4 hours, need to top up verey day.


Whining = pump bearings
Pressure reduction = pressure relief valve diaphragm either perished of gunged up - look for water coming out of the overflow pipe from the valve
leak in ch system look at all joints

Nov 30, 2009 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Radiator heats up when running a shower.


Your boiler is overdue for a service.

Combi boilers are unlike regular boilers in that they have quite a few moving parts, it's vital that these are serviced annually if you want the boiler to remain reliable and to avoid expensive failures.

In your case, the diverter valve has most likely failed. Normally, when the heating is on this senses when there's a demand for hot water and temporarily diverts the primary hot water circuit to feed the domestic hot water heat exchanger. When the demand for hot water ceases the primary hot water circuit is diverted back to the central heating heat exchanger. The valve has a number of moving parts including a rubber diaphragm which can wear out and split and moving shafts which can seize.

When the valve fails it can leak and also can divert hot water to the central heating heat exchanger when hot water is used. The reason that only the highest radiators in the system are affected is probably because the failed valve does not necessarily cause the central heating pump to activate and circulate the hot water throughout the system (it does on some boilers though). If hot water is introduced into a cold heating system it will rise via convection to the highest points in the system like an old fashioned gravity circulation system which was unpumped.

Call a heating engineer out as soon as possible; I'm not going to advise how to do the repair yourself as gas appliances MUST be serviced by qualified persons only for reasons of safety. If you're lucky then the valve simply needs cleaning up and a few new diaphragms plus other minor seals and rings. If it's gone too far then the valve and possibly the manifold it's attached to will need to be replaced.

In the UK the part alone typically costs between £100 to £200 depending on whether it's just the valve or the manifold as well. The diaphragm kit typically costs up to around £15 and is routinely fitted when the boiler is annually serviced, and a new valve will already have new diaphragms fitted. For a routine service expect to pay for up to two hours labour (many can be done in one hour), but if the valve/manifold have failed it will be longer as one failure often causes other parts to need further inspection/repair.

I hope that I've helped you today, if so please return the favour by rating my answer.

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Check to see if diverter valve is in domestic mode or heating mode.

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there is a zoneing valve thats suppose to be in the line to keep this from happening, might even have a check valve either way which ever one you have is bad and should be changed with a new one

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1 Answer

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the problem is the diverter valve unit, source a corgi engineer to fit new one, cost for valve approx 80 quid +fitting

Kindly

Richie

Dec 15, 2008 | Water Heaters

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