I have a Philco 461213 Record/ Radio player and as far as we know everything works except it needs a new electric plug to plug into the wall. I have been searching for some where to get more information on it but I cant find anything anywhere.

First let us review. You have a modular player (and recorder?) unit that includes the following playback elements: a compact disc (music) player; a tape cassette player (with?/without[?] second/overdub recorder or record head[?] on a single tape drive unit); and a phonograph record player/changer(?) including turntable, tone arm with stylus on ceramic[?] or magnetic[?] pickup cartridge. We can assume the unit has integrated or connected speakers since you say that applying touch pressure on the stylus produces a current (as pickup styluses are wont to do under pressure) detectible as audible sound in the same manner as pressure from tone arm weight on a musical record groove impression. Now, such units in their original form from analog days would also probably have had "EXT(ternal)" and/or EAR[phone] output jack or jacks for connection to an external audio output "player" typically driving large speakers networks in cabinets comprising large woofer, smaller midrange and even smaller tweeter speakers.

We know also that the multi-playback-mode appliance includes a pre-amplifer...how? Because a stylus (or even ancient needles) were/are never provided electric power input (like tube or transistor) but actually created their own, very weak current (aka piezo-electricity) which, in order to be amplified to drive speakers, had to first be preamplified to a signal level sufficient to drive an amplifer. So the finger rub you hear is evidence of pre-amplified signal power reaching an amplifer. Therefore, it should be safe to say that the amplification system is functional--as is, I assume also, would be the volume control you operated during neede stimulation.

So, now let us take survey of what actually seems to be NOT working (and, please, do use the COMMENT blank to correct any error or oversight--

• Turntable:
  
  • Power-On indicator or indication
  • Platter drive motor and linkages, including
  • Tone arm transport
  • Record changer spindle (if present)
• Magnetic-Tape Casette Player[s?]
  • Power-On indicator or indication
  • Tape-transport-capstan drive motor (&or belt linkage)
  • Cartridge eject button and mechanism
    • Note that a "slack" button due to spring dislodging is a typical failure mode but...that would not cause the other/overall problem/s...so may be disregarded
  • Secondary (Overdub) player, if present (same presumptive failure mode)
  • "Record-start" button and function (if record pickup head present on either tape drive)--but...not a fault-tree item if drive motor is not functioning, which it is not!
• Compact disc playback [/record-burn?] unit
  • Power-On indicator or indication
  • Insert/eject button functionality
  • CD drive spin/seek motor fuctionality

So now (before imputing fault of a non product kind) we can ask what all of these apparent failures have in common (in the "nothing works" failure mode) as set forth above?

Yes, it would be their common reliance upon AC power...whereas the only devise that seems operable, the amplifers to drive the speaker(s), with virtual certainty, functions on rectified AC power--that is to say, DC power...all with one inescapable inference:

• Household power is split beyond power cord input, respectively, to provide "juice" for the amplification and for the everything else subsystems.
  • Either in the form of a tap for each subsystem
  • Or in the form of a secondary power supply
  • Either or both of which could have been disabled by a current limiting devise such as a fuse
  • But only one (power subsystem) of which the power branch or supply is in failure mode: the "everything else" subsystem.
  • But...

Imputing cause of failure is problematic:

• Given the absence of any warrantly claim for a failed, "new" player
• Given what could accordingly be a construed "washing of hands," evidenced by the seeming gratuitous gifting of a music player with critical-to-fatal flaws, the cause of which the donors might well have "felt" they had played a part.

It would not be unrealistic to surmise that failure might have resulted from such mundane misbehaviors as

• Plugging into a wrong-voltage outlet
• Use of an extension cord
• Failure to temp stabilize after really-cold storage or transport
• Liquid spillage
• Or even a thing so common in a "world supply chain" as a supposed MTBF-1x100xhr subassembly's failing in 1x100xsec's.

In a nut shell, if "wall voltage" reads at input, and none shows at fuse, power supply, wiring ouput to each playback subsystem, then nothing but a common return flaw is likely to affect every subsystem except amplification.

If only Philco were really a manufacturer any more!

I don't know whether your philco is the same as my crosley, but I recently had an issue where the record player stopped turning and it bamboozled me to no end. After digging up the manual online, I found out that you had to lift up the tone arm and move it to the right (past the holding clip) until it clicked, and voila, the record player started spinning again.

I hope this helps!

If nothing lights up and the whole unit is dead, you may have a blown fuse, a bad power supply, or an electrical outlet that is not giving you power. (Don't laugh, it has happened to all of us... the "broken" thing wasn't plugged in or the outlet it was plugged into was off for some reason). Anyway, if the thing lights up and everything else in the system works except the turntable going 'round, perhaps there is a slipped or broken belt. Most late-model Crosley turntables have been belt drive, so the first thing to look at if everything else works is to press the buttons to start the record playing and then turn the record gently around with your finger on the label, making the whole platter turn clockwise when looking down at the record. Mechanically, the tonearm should cue up and pivot in to the record and it should gently drop onto the record. If you cue the tonearm up and move it in to the end of the last song on the LP and let it back down and turn the record again, it should follow the record's grooves into the center of the record and then lift and "park" the tonearm after everything is done. During the time the needle is on the record and you are turning the record, you should hear the record playing (it will sound bad, because you won't be turning at the right speed!), but that should indicate that the turntable is working mechanically and electrically.
If everything works like I mentioned except the record player won't make the record turn, the next step is to see why it isn't turning. you'll need to lift the plastic platter off the turntable. Most of these have a snap ring (usually a simple spring wire ring that doesn't go all the way around the center spindle. It may have an E-ring instead. Use a small screwdriver to pop this off and be sure to catch it, it might try to pop off the turntable and fly across the room! Lift the platter and you'll probably find a broken belt underneath. You'll have to replace that to make the records spin again. The hardest part is to locate a replacement belt! If nobody near you stocks belts (lol) then online outfits like LPGear.com can be a source. After you replace the belt and put the platter back on the player, remember to replace the snap ring. You might want to lubricate the platter's bearing with an appropriate lubricant, but that is your call as to whether that will be necessary. This is likely a styrene or simple thermoplastic plastic bearing, so be real careful what you use for a lubricant! if you're not sure, don't use anything! Like I said, it's not a difficult repair, it's just hard to find the part these days! Good Luck!

Check to make sure the speed switch is in the right position for the type of record you are playing.

It sounds like the knob part has has lost grip on the spindle of the switch, due to age. The knob part is designed to pull off (though sometimes they have an allen screw to keep them on) for service. You could try and pull it off! However it could (due to its age) have decayed and so might break up. If you do try to pull it off, turn it to the off position and when you put it back on put the knob pointer at the off point.
However it is safe to operate at the present.

On the 8 track the fixes and myself would need to know more details. Like: does it play, can you put a tape in etc, before giving a verdict.

only plug in speakers that came with the system,and unplug and replug it in the wall.

This unit takes a 12V 0.5A DC power supply. Your local Radio Shack sells this type of supply that will plug into the wall. You'll need to make sure that the other end will plug into the turntable, but for the supply, Radio Shack is probably the quickest way.

plug evey thing back how it was befor u unpluged the components to consolidate wall outputs.

The plater is either belt driven or idler wheel driven. You need to remove the plater and check the condition of whichever you have.
Belts would need replaced if bad, sometimes you can clean idler wheels with brake fluid and get them working again. Also if the unit is old, the grease on the plater spindle may be dried up. Clean it off and re-grease. Any light lithium grease is good or go buy some "Luberex" at radio shack.

Geno