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Without looking up the specifications for this heat pump, I cannot be certain, but I expect the operation to provide cooling may require more power than when heating. You probably can find the specifications online for this unit. As you probably know, power is measured in watts and is calculated by voltage times current. This also is likely to be 240 volts operation. If you take the specified power on cooling and divide by voltage (240), that will indicate the current in amperage that will be required to start it. Your circuit breaker is set for current and needs to be a higher current than is required. If that is the problem, you can buy circuit breakers at Home Depot or Lowes. You have to remove the front panel of your breaker box and snap out the circuit breaker. To be safe it would be good to turn off the main breaker switch before you open the front panel and remove the circuit breaker for the heat pump. Should your calculation of current required be less than the rating of the circuit breaker, that implies a malfunction of the heat pump in the cooling mode and would require a service call to the local representative of the heat pump manufacturer.
Split system Air conditioners are very often on two or more separate breakers, with a control voltage (24vac commonly) connecting their operation. the condensor unit and out-door fan generally on a 220 vc 'paired' breaker, possibly a quick disconnect near the unit with fuses inside, or an independant breaker pair, and the evaporator unit with INDOOR fan on a 110 or 220 vac breaker.
switch the fan to 'ON' at the thermostat... this is the midpoint of the system electrically. If the fan comes on check for voltage at the condensor unit. a check to see if the thermostat is the problem... remove the thermostat and connect the red, green and either the white or yellow wires (not both) if you chose white you should have heat...yellow AC...
most split system AC have a small buss fuse on the control circuit board of the indoor unit. looks like a glass tube with metal caps held by metal clips. In 40+ yrs experience I have found it is more likely one or both of the 30 amp buss fuses near the outdoor unit (replace both even if one is still ok) or a 30 amp breaker in the quick disconnect box.
In many systems the control voltage to the thermostat derives from a transformer in the outdoor unit... it could be as simple as a broken wire. Without a full diagnostic, a complete description of the unit ( AC or heat pump, etc) this is all speculation
Hello 93 The compressor caused the breaker to trip.A weak capasitor or burnt wire is a common cause.It sounds like the compressor is NOT on even though the fan is.It may need a new wire or maybe a HARD START kit to help restore operation.Call for help.HS kits are not expensive.NO damage results from leaving it on, the problem would have happened anyway even if you went on vacation or not.The curcit breaker stopped it.Its worth fixing.
We had a similar problem. The timer light would blink 3 times, pause,
then blink 3 times again, pause, and so on. The fan was blowing lots of
air out, but the air was not cold. The operation light was off.
The technician came and fixed it for free, since it's actually easy to
fix. He went to our circuit-breaker box, and cut power (from the box)
to the air conditioners for 30 seconds. Then, he restored power -
It's apparently because the air con goes into a "safety" mode when there's a power surge.