Question about Carrier Heating & Cooling
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hi!!! Does your ac unit work fine?If not check your low voltage problem..You have a low voltage problem check the wire going out to your condensor make sure that they are not touching..Good luck..Check low voltage wires..short in progress..
Posted on Jan 04, 2009
The fans are set to delay for 60-90 seconds to remove all heat from the heat exchanger/heater elements.
If the fan runs any longer than 3-4 minutes after the Emergency Heat shuts off, you may have a bad sequencing relay in the air handler.
Posted on Jan 27, 2009
SOURCE: Heat pump cycling on and off.
It sounds as if you you have a low charge of refrigerant, r22. When the unit comes on outside, the outdoor coils become the lowside, there is a low pressure switch that is tripping out contactor protecting the compressor.
Posted on Mar 11, 2009
what I have always been told is if your 24 volt side burns out check the high volt side if the hi volt side burns out check the low volt side.
A quick way if the primary side is burningout due to a problem with the low volt side:
1 MArk all the thermostat wires at the indoor unit
2 Disconnect them at the indoor unit.
3 Check main line voltage before proceeding (A 208 volt is not considered 220V and 240v Is not considered 208V> In these circumstances the voltage may have changed with the power company replacing a transformer and now you need to change the main power input lines at your control transformer for the correct operating voltage). If okj then proceed:
4 If you have an amp meter attach it to one of the lines going to the transformer.
5 Apply main power and listen for hum, note if smell starts again and if so problem has to be in board or main incoming voltage too high or too low. Amp draw should be less than 3 amps.
6 If your to this point and still havent found any trouble in the above as of yet, Connect the wire marked "C" together. Then just touch the thermostat wires one at a time to the places where they go on the indoor unit and watch the amp meter. If you donmt see the meter jump the circut is probably ok but leave them disconnected until you touch all of them to the correct place or wire. Here is a possible problem I ahve seen a thermostat wireing problem if the wires are stripped too far and a "whisker" of the wire sticks out and allowes one of the other wires to cross short out. In this case just cut off the excess wire or bend it over out of the way asnd continue with the test. You can always cut it off later after the tests. If you see the meter jump up and stay up and /or blowes the fuse the wire that you used and it blew is where to consentrate.
7 No wiring problem found means that you could have a relay or contactor not pulling in properly.
and this will cause the amp draw to go way over the transformers power out put or VA rating.
8 Inspect the thermostat wiring for the "whisker" I mentioned above.
9 If you have done this to the end of the thermostat wires and your main incomming voltage is correctly wired in on the transformer andf your relays and contactors are pulling in evenly and not delaying excessively your problem should be fixed.
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Posted on Apr 25, 2009
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Nov 01, 2015 | Heating & Cooling
If it is just the condenser fan that means you have a fan relay that has welded shut. Turn power off to your unit and trace the wires from your condenser fan back into the control panel at the unit. You'll have 3 wires going to it. 2 go to the run capacitor and one goes to the fan relay. The one that goes to the fan relay is the part that needs to be replaced. If you have no fan relay and it goes to the main contractor, half of your main contractor is welded shut and will need to be replaced.
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