Question about Microwave Ovens

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Door switch black connectors bad?

My mircrowave works when the door release buttons is semi depressed, meaning the upper and lower connectors are in the same position (not pressed in) as the door being opened juging by looking at it with the cover off, i saw a short on the lower one when attempting to see what the problem was in the black/ground wire, now i believe i have blown the fuse, can you assist?

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This is usually caused by either a bad door switch, a loose door switch mount, or occasionally a problem on the control panel.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside. Its continuity must be checked.

Door switch or mount trouble can be caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. Other times, it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

There may also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

If you think the problem is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in most cases.

Please write back with your brand and model number if you need further help.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Jul 13, 2008

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How do I change a bad door switch and/or door switch mount on a Maytag Model MMV5208WS1?


Take off the control panel to do this remove the grille over door should be two screws remove screw from control slide upward it should come forward take a pic of wires then remove to get panel out of the way almost forgot the spade terminals on the relay have a lock on them you have to look carefully there is a tab you need to depress to release the lock to slide off, there may be a black plastic panel in the way take out the bottom screw then you can pry out of the way you have either a bad primary or secondary switch change both not that expensive primary on top left switch 3 wires going to it secondary bottom single switch same principle to unlock terminals # 15 torx bit needed to remove the screw for door switch mount hopes this helps

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I just bought an RV with the exact same microwave and the exact same problem. The problem with mine is the switch that detects that the door is closed is not getting activated. The reason for this is is the finger at the top of the door is damaged as well as the plastic piece that the finger grabs onto when the door is closed. This causes the finger not to come into contact with the switch. To test this you can turn your microwave on and start it. open the door and using a small screwdriver, depress the micro switch you can see upper right side of the door opening. then press start again. your turntable will start turning and the microwave will make a louder noise as a fan will turn on. CAUTION! Release the button as soon as you see the turntable rotation as you will be receiving microwave energy due to the door being opened.

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I have a Thermador ME272 double-convection wall oven. After self-cleaning the bottom oven, the bottom oven won't turn on. When I press Lower Oven or Self-Clean on the control panel, I get no beep and...


I would almost guarantee the thermocouple is bad.It is a small rod whose wires come out from the back wall into the oven and is mounted inside the oven,usually near the top.This is a common fail component in ovens due to the temperatures it endures over time,especially with self-cleaning because they usually go over the maximum temperature cooking allowed during cleaning.If you want to test it yourself,you or someone can swap out the 2 thermocouples as they should be identical..Make sure the circuit braker is pulled first.Behind the oven there is probably a cover which is fairly easy to access.If it is possible to switch the 2 connectors without removing the thermocouples,it would obviously be much quicker.If you switch them and turn both ovens on,the problem should switch ovens also.If you switch the thermocouples and the problem DOES NOT switch ovens,the bottom doesn't work but top still does,the circuit board is bad.Wait about a half hour before touching the thermocouple after heatup and leave the door open.Good luck,Greg

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Unit will only work one time /then you have to wait 10-15min


ge over the range microwaves have this problem . for some reason the plastic sort of melts but not realy (please check hinge for wear and adjust if ness ) , it just gets out of shape from the heat and this makes the switches not work properly . most likely the micro is too close to the stovetop . see your manual about that and you can buy the slideing plastic parts where the switches are , its just big $$$$ if the micro is to close it will happen again GOOD LUCK

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Generally, the most common causes of a failure to heat are:

- bad door switches or door switch mounts
- loose connection at the magnetron
- problem or loose connection on the control unit circuit board
- bad magnetron or other high voltage part (such as a shorted diode)

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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2 Answers

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That model number has too many digits after the JVM. Could it be JVM1339BW02 or JVM1339BW002?

If one is bad, it's probably the bottom switch, whose wiring goes back to the power relay, thermostat, or fuse, depending on eact model.

The switch with thin wires going to a ltitle connector on the board is the door sense switch. That's not likely your culprit.

I usually recommend you replace them all while you're at it.

It sounds like it may actually be a loose or misaligned door or door switch mount.

If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and
disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

GE models have a very helpful "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel. Handy in troubleshooting.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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